Purchased a nice Mark III 1998 LX E150 Van.
Getting ready for a summer road trip and I am slowly working over things. Taking each item at a time and working through them. Todays issue is around the rear heat / ac.
AC; I put some pressure into the system (it started with very little) and the compressor started to cycle on and off. Once the system low side was up around 45 psi with compressor on, I was getting cool air inside. Feeling a bit satisfied I left it to run a few minutes. Then I noticed the compressor stopped cycling and then a fitting let go.......
Part of my problem is this fitting. Half way down the van under the Left side the two AC lines connect into a "U" shaped block. The block looks to have two adjustments on it covered by caps. The block itself has given way and let the system release its pressure.
What is that block called? Do I need it? Can I by pass it with some pipe and clamps?

Next on the heating side. The two lines on the engine side come down right along the AC blocks then change to rubber hose with hose clamps. One line runs about 4 inches of rubber hose, then another clamp, short pipe, clamp, and back to rubber hose. This rubber/pipe/rubber junction is leaking antifreeze, well the hose is wet, no drips. However during a recent inspection, they failed the van saying I had a fuel leak.
Question here, how much coolant can I expect when I try to remove that junction and replace with new pipe? Like the whole system going to run out on me? Will there be any issues with air getting into the rear heating system?


One last thought, strong smell of gas when I put gas in tank. smell goes away in a minute or two. Inspection shows everything dry from the underside, no leaks can be seen.........should I drop tank for an inspection of fittings/ gaskets?

Thank you
Guy

 

Well, rear Heat and A/C in an old Conversion Van is a 'big money' deal even when you can find the parts, most DIY owners give up and cap everything off. The gas leaks and smells could be anything from a rotted rubber filler neck to a collapsed or rotted vent lines in the EVAP system, but chances are anything rubber needs to be replaced....................

 

Thank you for your comments. I guess I would be asking you this; I am in no need of "parts" per say as I have a leak in line between the front and rear.
I would like to call the connection some sort of balance block but I am unable to determine what that junction is or what it is for. So, is it possible to by-pass that junction block item with hose and clamps. I only need the rear AC to function this summer as I am spending a month in the south. Once I return home to Maine, we can survive with little AC here.

I do plan to drop the tank to inspect hoses and such..........

 

Agree on conversion van aftermarket units. On my previous GMC the heater core in the back got a leak and I just put a "U" hose on it to shut off coolant flow.

Likewise, I just sold my '02 E150 conversion and when it was new and in warranty, it had leaks at those huge AC hose hookups at a big connector block. (Converter warranted their stuff for 12 or 36 mos, I forget which) and the dealer either replaced the block or tightened them up and recharged the system. (I forget which and gave all my paperwork to the friend who bought my van.) I frankly don't know if the block serves any purpose other than being a junction point but mine leaked down when it was a year old. Actually it then ran just fine for 11 years following.

The rear heater/AC units in conversion vans are cheap junk and installations are often sloppy....good luck sorting it out.

George

 

I'm not exactly sure what they call it or if it's a separate part, but the rear A/C lines are made in sections and 'Dorman' does carry some replacement parts and lines. The big question is how much of it is from Ford vs Mark III .......I'm sure that block has some kind of O Rings in it. I would look for a A/C Shop that gave free quotes and go from there, let them figure it out and then you fix it..........lol

 

Hi Guy,
I found a similar topic in the archives:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9047390

In the thread they mention separate charging ports for the rear AC and some balance valves. I think the valves could be isolation valves if the rear evaporator needed replacement.

Another post lists a source of parts if that becomes necessary:
- ACC Climate Control

I hope something in there helps.
jim

 

I can add this and hopefully a photo.






Looking at the photo, the hose on the left, you can see two hose clamps and it is wet. That is one of the heater lines and that joint is weeping.
The hose in the middle has a low pressure port on the AC line. I did connect my ac gauge here and I could watch the pressure rise and fall with the compressor.
The line on the right side, that is the line / junction block that failed. I can not say exactly if it was the block, the junction, or the line, I just felt for the leak while it was hissing and then left it alone so I was not breathing in anything coming out.

In searching the net for "balance" ac block and stuff like that, I have not found anything looking like these. It would make sense to be able to block front to rear to enable work on the rear stuff.

Thanks again and I will keep reading more............

Guy

 

I did read that one and I thought about posting there but it was 6 years ago. That is why I started new thread.......I will be reading it a few more times to pull out ideas on what I might do with my van........
Thanks again,
Guy

 

Yup, those are the old AC service valves that Ford once used on the Tecumseh compressors. The valves have 3 positions. Your application appears to have 2 valves per line, not sure of the reason for that. The major problem with these valves was they were expensive, Schrader valves quickly became the manufacturer's choice.

Here's an Autozone link with more information:
| Repair Guides | Routine Maintenance | Air Conditioning | AutoZone.com
jim

 

ROTALOCK!

Whew, glad I got that off my mind. jim

 

To JIM!!

So, would be best just to by-pass them? If the ends are still good and just the valve has failed, I should be able to use some adapters to reconnect the lines?

I hope so............

Thank you
Guy

 

They should be backseated (normal flow), and if they are not leaking, I would leave them. Just replacing a leaking valve would probably be easier than replumbing, but I am an OEM kinda guy (also lazy).

Since you only need AC during the trip south, just replacing the bad part is the quickest solution. jim

 

First I have to determine what part is "bad". I only determined that the leak came from the line (in the photo far right), at a point you can see the downward pointing tip that is black covered with "oil?". The release of pressure was just above that point, perhaps where the color turns to rust. I have the van in the shop getting a repair on a body support so its out of my hands for a few days.........

The re-plum idea was a thought to save $$ plus I have no idea what that part is called, if its available, or if I can afford one over the cost of a bypass repair.


Not to jump too far off point, but if I open that antifreeze line to replace that short section that is weeping, do I end up with gallons and gallons of antifreeze on my head? Also, do I have any worries about getting any air into the rear heater coil?

Thanks again.....
Guy

 

You going to get a few gallons and a lot of air trapped. I had mine power flushed at the Dealer while I watched and it took hours of run time for it was done bleeding out. If it were me; I would buy a set of A/C hoses for an Engine without AUX 'rear a/c' and make sure the Compressor was the same too. Then the front half would be set for vacation and you could collect parts later on as you could find them for the rear..................Good Luck.

 

With thinking like that, it would make me wonder "why not just put in a new compressor at $100" plus just the "front" lines then I'd be all set!

Hmm I wonder just how hard changing a set of lines would be........it looks really tight in there..........