The problem child is back, lol. 2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.

It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:

P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low

P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance

P2614 - CMP Open circuit

P2617 - CKP Open circuit

CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.

Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.

I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.

Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.

I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.

 

sounds like your on Track to me


www.ficmrepair.com


I did not see video so hope ed will see it

 

I remember you from before


same truck

 

LOL. Yes, yes it is.

 

Cylinders #1, #4, #6 and #7 injector circuits low hard codes present point SQUARELY at one of your FICM connectors either not connected at all, or not connected properly, namely the rearmost of the three connectors (the one closest to the firewall, the middle connector is for cylinders #2, #3, #5 and #8). Before you condemn the FICM or attempt to address any other issues, check that connector first! Having four of eight cylinders not firing can definitely cause a no-start scenario like you describe.

 

and there you go even better^^

 

Forgot to mention that I did both visually and physically check the connectors (as well as I could get my hands in there, anyhow). I do plan to disconnect, check and reconnect them them before I order any parts, though. I just found out that this happened in the middle of a downpour, so as unlikely as it seems I probably should check for water intrusion too.

 

Unless the hood was up or it got drove thru high water and that high idk about water guess anything goes

Check bent pins

 

I don't see how any pins would be bent. The last person to have the FICM out was me, about 6 months ago when it had some bad injectors. It's been fine since then up until yesterday.

 

Can you run an injector buzz test, with particular attention being paid to what happens during the cycling of the offending cylinders in question? It's interesting that FICM SYNC is switching between NO and YES in the video as the engine is cranked. If wiring, particularly the X1 connector is ruled out, it may very well be a bad FICM. If you can borrow a known good FICM to swap into place temporarily, I think you'll narrow down your issue fairly quickly.

 

I meant to run a buzz test when I stopped to take a look at it today, but I got in a rush with it being Saturday and all, lol. I don't know anyone around here who would have a compatible FICM, but I'm gonna put out a few feelers and see what I can come up with. If I can find one and the problem disappears with is, that should be pretty conclusive.

 

When you disconnect the connectors, look down into each plug (the rearmost one the closest) and ensure that none of the pins are pushed down further than the others. If you have disconnected the connectors and re-connected them and then continue to have this issue, likely it is indeed the FICM.

If this is the case, make certain to pull the alternator and have it bench tested to ensure that you don't have a bad voltage regulator.

If the FICM is game over, we'd be honored to take care of you on that as well.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks. I just looked at your website, and an exchange is definitely an option if it turns out to be the FICM, which I have a feeling it will . . .

 

A FICM from any 6.0 powered Ford be it an F-Series or E-Series can be swapped in for testing purposes only.

 

You got some the best help going now bud you will be back on the road soon