I had to beat and bend the crap out of my headers to get them around the Cordoba steering box. I hear this is a common problem. Can I get them to stop leaking if I can get a bit more torque on the bolts? The hex head bolts that came with the econo headers tend to round off when I try to snug them down. Anyone have success doing this with the ARP bolts with the 12 point head?

 

You may get better torque results with either allen bolts or studs w/nuts, at least in my experience.

 

I have used ARP reduced hex header bolts. They work great. Mr. Gasket makes header bolt lock washers that I have had good luck with as well. The washer is thick so a slightly longer header bolt is usually needed. Last time I bought them I think I got 1" long bolts.

 

What type of gasket are you using ? Either use the copper sheet gaskets or the copper colored / base racing exhaust header sealant . Either never failed on the race car or the hot rod truck .

 

This gets my vote, if you can get the headers on/off with the studs in the head. ARP makes 12-point nuts for their stud kits, too.

 

looks to me like the stud uses a standard 3/8 nut and that's requires a 7/16 box end wrench and that won't clear the header tube. The far back one won't clear a 3/8 box end wrench so I'm left using the open end wrench and can't get much on that. A 3/8-16 allen head uses a 5/16 allen wrench so I might go that route for the ones that I can't get to with a socket.

 

Thanks for the comments.

I have 2 sets of Felpro. one is thin with foil on one side and they were leaking a lot. The other set is thicker, maybe 0.040" and foil on both sides and those are leaking a lot less.

 

ARP makes header bolts with a 5/16 or 3/8 hex so you can get a box end wrench or socket on them. If your headers have thin flanges, 1/4" thick steel, as opposed to 3/8" steel or at least 5/16" thick stainless steel it might be difficult to permanently stop leaks. High quality headers typically don't have leak issues.

 

Yes....ARP bolts...but buy some Remflex gaskets. They're a little spendy, but you'll never have a leak again. They are a relatively thick graphite composite sponge. The gaskets will compress to fill gaps and will handle the heat from exhaust.

Dan

 

The fact that the supplied bolts are rounding off tells you right there that you should not use them. I vote for the allen bolts.

 

Ditto, and I have used socket head cap screws in tight locations. If the headers have thin flanges blown out gaskets will be a problem.

 

I think your best bet would be to try and straighten the flange some first. Either in a press or some makeshift jig perhaps.

 

thanks. they are fleabay cheap, only cost $130, but have 5/16" flanges.

I bought some stainless allen head machine screws from the hardware store and will try 'em on the bolt locations that I can't reach with a socket.

 

I've done that - but then the tube "straightens" out and will not clear the steering box.

 

Hmm, can you somehow hold it and bend the tube at the same time, I assume you have already tried that too though.