The last few days I've been working on a 3G swap on my truck since the 2G took a ****.

I wired everything necessary for the 3G, and simultaneously wired the 7v stator circuit into a 6v relay to trigger a 12v source I needed for my Fuel Slayer carb choke. I cut the old connectors off and wrapped the wire ends in electrical tape and then heat shrink tubing over top of that to ensure it wouldn't come loose. I wrapped up everything as nicely as possible connected everything, tightened the new alt down, and reconnected battery cables.

Went to go turn the truck over and discovered I have ZERO power to anything.

I checked my wiring, everything is wired as it should.

Stator plug to matching white wire on the regulator plug (and then I have another wire jumped off of this going up to the 6v relay)
Green/? wire to matching green wire from old connector
Yellow wire run up and attached to hot always side of starter relay
Charge cable from alt to hot side of starter relay.

I read that its possible for the interior wiring to be tied to the old alternator charge wires so I tried using a jumper from the battery on that circuit to see if I could get my interior light or anything to work. It didn't.

So at this point I'm lost and frustrated. This has been yet another detour to what was supposed to be a "weekend or two project" to desmog my 460, which has turned into over a month now. I'd like to actually drive the truck for once and I'm sure my father would appreciate his garage back. /Rant

Any suggestions? Idk what else to check...

I know it'll probably end up being something simple but being this frustrated that I can't seem to get my truck out of the garage is not enabling me to think very clearly.

 

What did you do with the old wiring that went to the old alternator? That's usually incorporated into the feed wiring for the cab. Look over on the pass side inner fender, there should be some large yellow wires that feed the interior ignition switch and fuse box.

 

It really sounds like you are missing one (or more) of the fusible links that are supposed to be attached to the "hot" stud of the fender mounted relay.

Can you post a pic, or two?

I eliminated my 2G wiring entirely except for the lt green/red exciter wire coming from the charge indicator, and looped the yellow wire to the output stud so the alternator won't go full field if the megafuse burns out.

 

I will post a pic in a while. I'm off to work and I get no service there.

 

That would help a lot.

BTW, I'm pretty sure your QFT carb uses a Holley choke cap.
You could just swap the Motorcraft one from the 4180 and eliminate the relay complexity.

 

Here's what I got:

At the alt: (Top wire that's cut is the old charge wire)


Near battery:


On the stater relay:

(PS:, I have an upgraded mid-90's starter, that's why the stater supply wire is on the hot side. The brown wire triggers the relay at the stater itself.)

 

Got it. Both of you were on the right track. Tracked down the yellow wire that powers into the cab. Threw a ring terminal on it, mounted to the positive battery terminal (no more room on the starter relay), and voila, power restored.

Buttoned everything back up, started the truck, have just over 14 volts across the battery and 14 volts to my choke.

Thanks for the assist, I figured it would be pretty easy once I figured out what it was.