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Gauge reads below E. Low fuel light on now a check engine light. Sender high circuit. Has anyone had luck just removing sender and cleaning it?
Yes I did a few years back and it's been good. Before removing the sender
I would first check the plug in top of the tank to see if there is a problem
there. Circuit high is pointing to the loss of the return (ground).
Have a look at page 60-3
I don't have the pinpoint test sheet handy but I think
you might need IDS to run them in this case.
Thanks guys I'll jump into it tomorrow. I also was planning to harpoon the tank if I had to open it up. I figured I would clean it first before spending 300 dollars for a new one.
Yes I did a few years back and it's been good. Before removing the sender
I would first check the plug in top of the tank to see if there is a problem
there. Circuit high is pointing to the loss of the return (ground).
Have a look at page 60-3
I don't have the pinpoint test sheet handy but I think
you might need IDS to run them in this case.
I did the gauge sweep test at start up and it worked. I was told to check the gauge that way. I went outside and looked at wiring and it looks good all clean and none of it exposed. Unplugged it and the conection looks clean. To late to start a big job today.It worked on way home sat all day. When I got ready to go to work next day I started truck and low fuel light was on. I knew it was wrong because I just filled up day before.
I used rubbing alcohol and Q-tips and noting else. Be very gentle with
an alcohol wetted Q-tip. Rub the resistor face and the contact wiper tip.
When you no longer come back with grime (rust in my case). Snap the
cover back on and that should be that.
You can clean the sender, floats stuck. Also read up on harpoon in the tank since it's open.
I'll be doing mine in a few days.
Randy, and everyone,
While the tank is down take a close look at the brake line behind it, specifically at where the retainers clamp onto the line. If there appears to be any corrosion now would be the time to replace the line from the rear axle drop to the union by the transfer case or in front of the tank, wheelbase dependent.
Do not use the common silver or black colored over the counter lines. Use the Ni-Copp (nickle-copper) or if you can wait stainless from available sources like Classic Tube. If your not good at making double flares, doubling up sections with a union in between can get you very close to the needed size with some careful s-curve like bending.
Of all the brake lines on these trucks this is the one that causes more grief then any others.
We used to remove some bolts so we could attach a test weight frame in the pickups and removing the bolts was always an iffy situation even with new trucks. Hopefully you will be fine, but be ready to have to grind the heads off then the u-nuts, and get the replacement bolts. When a body shop had to replace a bed side panel they just added bolts to the estimate. Those are listed as one-time use, but the shop said they usually end up grinding or burning them out.
Not that I think dropping a tank is any less problematic, but that I've been successful with on several occasions. Not fun.
We used to remove some bolts so we could attach a test weight frame in the pickups and removing the bolts was always an iffy situation even with new trucks. Hopefully you will be fine, but be ready to have to grind the heads off then the u-nuts, and get the replacement bolts. When a body shop had to replace a bed side panel they just added bolts to the estimate. Those are listed as one-time use, but the shop said they usually end up grinding or burning them out.
Not that I think dropping a tank is any less problematic, but that I've been successful with on several occasions. Not fun.
We your right. Broke 3 torx bits then welded a nut onto top of bolt broke the clip so now it just spins. Going to drop the tank next weekend to late to start now. Not doing it twice ( I was going to try and clean the sender)so I got a new sending unit on the way.
Pulling the bed in my book is a nightmare.
Even soaking them in Kroil for days and applying heat.
I can't say how many bits I broke. 1/2 came out the rest
had to be cut. The bolts are not round so that they act
like a locking device. Then the clip nuts are not galvanized.
So they like to rust to the bolt.
They are a self tapping thread, and a real strong bolt if you remember commercials from years back where Ford lifted a truck by its bed. And they want them to lock so in an accident the bed is retained with all the weight to GVW.
We would get trucks that were just delivered at the dealership, no rust, and even with lubricant it was like a New Years Celebration if all the ones we needed to come out came out, it was so rare. As a new project started I would order a pallet of rotors, calipers, drums if needed, then call the dealer for bed bolts if it was a pickup.
05-06-2016, 10:23 PM
