STOOPID ????. ?
#1
STOOPID ????. ?
My engine has been sitting unrun for at least 16mos.
I was thinking ( always a sketchy proposition ), What if I took all the plugs out and filled that sucker to the gills with motor oil and then took a wrench and turned the crank a few times and then used a drill to turn the crank faster. Let the thing sit over-nite and then drain it completely, do a standard oil change and then try to fire it up.
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?
I was thinking ( always a sketchy proposition ), What if I took all the plugs out and filled that sucker to the gills with motor oil and then took a wrench and turned the crank a few times and then used a drill to turn the crank faster. Let the thing sit over-nite and then drain it completely, do a standard oil change and then try to fire it up.
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?
#2
First thing make sure no old stale varnished fuel is in the carb or fuel system. If the tank happened to be rusty and full of sediment it won't have improved any in that time either. At least pull the carb and take a look inside, maybe a rebuild if necessary. New fuel hose is important, it rots from the inside and splits without warning.
I'd be inclined to drop the oil now if it's old and dirty. Install fresh oil and new filter. Pressurize oil galleries and bearings with a long 1/4" drive extension and electric drill CCW on the oil pump driveshaft, just like it's a first time run up.
Squirt a couple tablespoons of Marvel's oil down each spark plug hole and let it soak overnight and run a few ounces in the fuel. It will smoke a LOT on startup, so don't scare the womenfolk and horses.
A lot of people wouldn't do any of that, just jump the battery and go. Incidentally that would be rough on your alternator and charging system. Jump starts aren't too kind, particularly. Install a fresh charged battery and keep it 100% charged till it starts running smooth. Dead batteries smoke alternator stators/diodes.
I'd be inclined to drop the oil now if it's old and dirty. Install fresh oil and new filter. Pressurize oil galleries and bearings with a long 1/4" drive extension and electric drill CCW on the oil pump driveshaft, just like it's a first time run up.
Squirt a couple tablespoons of Marvel's oil down each spark plug hole and let it soak overnight and run a few ounces in the fuel. It will smoke a LOT on startup, so don't scare the womenfolk and horses.
A lot of people wouldn't do any of that, just jump the battery and go. Incidentally that would be rough on your alternator and charging system. Jump starts aren't too kind, particularly. Install a fresh charged battery and keep it 100% charged till it starts running smooth. Dead batteries smoke alternator stators/diodes.
#3
2X Ted. I will only add make sure you mark position of the Dizzy's rotor and it's housing before you pull that Dizzy to spin the oil pumps shaft. And the next day before you hit the starter spin the engine over by hand to make sure those pistons (and their rings) will move up and down in the cylinders freely.
#5
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I was thinking ( always a sketchy proposition ), What if I took all the plugs out and filled that sucker to the gills with motor oil and then took a wrench and turned the crank a few times and then used a drill to turn the crank faster. Let the thing sit over-nite and then drain it completely, do a standard oil change and then try to fire it up.
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?[/QUOTE]
Filling the cylinder full of will for sure make one hell of a mess when turning the crank over & over. I'd use some fogging oil that expands into a foam covers everything. Kind of like shaving cream does.
This type of oil is used when prepping an engine for storage like in the marine for dry-dock. It comes in a spray can with a little 4" tube Much like wd-40 is sold.
Marvels oil is good but does not cover the whole cylinders with a just few teaspoons. So you'd have to add much more to coat the whole upper cylinders.
I'd remove the drain and just let it drip for a 12-24 hrs. Then pour in a bout a 1/3 of a qt. and continue to let that drain out.
By doing this will help remove any of the last little bits that did not first flow out.. I do this way at every time, I do an oil change on my vehicles.
Then do what ever of the rest on the listed to the prepping for starting.
But if you'd never pulled a fe dizzy before they can be some what tricky to get back in an seated correctly.
Most the time the oil pump hex drive rod don't line up so you'll have bump the starter just little while lightly pushing down on the dizzy cap.
But then timing will be off by one tooth when it drops into place.
So you'll have to repeat this if the dizzy won't turn enough to correct the timing.
Orich
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?[/QUOTE]
Filling the cylinder full of will for sure make one hell of a mess when turning the crank over & over. I'd use some fogging oil that expands into a foam covers everything. Kind of like shaving cream does.
This type of oil is used when prepping an engine for storage like in the marine for dry-dock. It comes in a spray can with a little 4" tube Much like wd-40 is sold.
Marvels oil is good but does not cover the whole cylinders with a just few teaspoons. So you'd have to add much more to coat the whole upper cylinders.
I'd remove the drain and just let it drip for a 12-24 hrs. Then pour in a bout a 1/3 of a qt. and continue to let that drain out.
By doing this will help remove any of the last little bits that did not first flow out.. I do this way at every time, I do an oil change on my vehicles.
Then do what ever of the rest on the listed to the prepping for starting.
But if you'd never pulled a fe dizzy before they can be some what tricky to get back in an seated correctly.
Most the time the oil pump hex drive rod don't line up so you'll have bump the starter just little while lightly pushing down on the dizzy cap.
But then timing will be off by one tooth when it drops into place.
So you'll have to repeat this if the dizzy won't turn enough to correct the timing.
Orich
#6
As Ted has pointed out, jumping a battery that has sat for 16 months is a bad idea. The battery is dead, dead and you are essentially putting a short circuit across the terminals of the donor battery. You risk an explosion.
Your best bet would be to install a fresh battery. Or, if funds are tight, borrow a charger and leave it on for a couple of days. If the engine will not turn over after that, dump the battery. It is shot.
Your best bet would be to install a fresh battery. Or, if funds are tight, borrow a charger and leave it on for a couple of days. If the engine will not turn over after that, dump the battery. It is shot.
#7
As Ted has pointed out, jumping a battery that has sat for 16 months is a bad idea. The battery is dead, dead and you are essentially putting a short circuit across the terminals of the donor battery. You risk an explosion.
Your best bet would be to install a fresh battery. Or, if funds are tight, borrow a charger and leave it on for a couple of days. If the engine will not turn over after that, dump the battery. It is shot.
Your best bet would be to install a fresh battery. Or, if funds are tight, borrow a charger and leave it on for a couple of days. If the engine will not turn over after that, dump the battery. It is shot.
Okay guys this is what she looks like right now.
When I am ready to do what I was thinking and now, probably what a couple of guys here have recommended ( I like the foaming oil stuff ). I will do the foam oil. then drain and run an oil change through her using something on the crank to get the oil where it needs to go. Then I will drain and drop the pan, check the oil sump and replace the gaskets I'm planning on replacing.
I'm pretty sure I 'm going to pull the intake and heads after I do the foaming oil thing. After finding that cracked mani I figure since I'm this far I may as well.
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#11
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My engine has been sitting unrun for at least 16mos.
I was thinking ( always a sketchy proposition ), What if I took all the plugs out and filled that sucker to the gills with motor oil and then took a wrench and turned the crank a few times and then used a drill to turn the crank faster. Let the thing sit over-nite and then drain it completely, do a standard oil change and then try to fire it up.
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?
I was thinking ( always a sketchy proposition ), What if I took all the plugs out and filled that sucker to the gills with motor oil and then took a wrench and turned the crank a few times and then used a drill to turn the crank faster. Let the thing sit over-nite and then drain it completely, do a standard oil change and then try to fire it up.
Does anyone ( everyone? ) think I'm off the wall?
While I can see it is important to lubricate the wall/ring interface in each cylinder, I can't help but think that you're asking for a multi-quart mess in your garage (or under the old shade tree, as the case may be). Every time the valves close for a compression stroke, your pistons will be sending oil flying out of the spark plug holes. The vision I have is something like a paintball grenade. Maybe multiple grenades,
If you put the plugs back in first, you will be attempting to compress the oil (which won't work very well -- think about the theory of hydraulics), and likely cause damage (broken rings, leaks in the head gaskets, launched spark plugs, etc.).
Please try to accomplish the same things in a more sanitary and economical manner. And try to avoid hitting any bystanders.
#12
That's why I ask questions
I think you are off the wall.
While I can see it is important to lubricate the wall/ring interface in each cylinder, I can't help but think that you're asking for a multi-quart mess in your garage (or under the old shade tree, as the case may be). Every time the valves close for a compression stroke, your pistons will be sending oil flying out of the spark plug holes. The vision I have is something like a paintball grenade. Maybe multiple grenades,
If you put the plugs back in first, you will be attempting to compress the oil (which won't work very well -- think about the theory of hydraulics), and likely cause damage (broken rings, leaks in the head gaskets, launched spark plugs, etc.).
Please try to accomplish the same things in a more sanitary and economical manner. And try to avoid hitting any bystanders.
While I can see it is important to lubricate the wall/ring interface in each cylinder, I can't help but think that you're asking for a multi-quart mess in your garage (or under the old shade tree, as the case may be). Every time the valves close for a compression stroke, your pistons will be sending oil flying out of the spark plug holes. The vision I have is something like a paintball grenade. Maybe multiple grenades,
If you put the plugs back in first, you will be attempting to compress the oil (which won't work very well -- think about the theory of hydraulics), and likely cause damage (broken rings, leaks in the head gaskets, launched spark plugs, etc.).
Please try to accomplish the same things in a more sanitary and economical manner. And try to avoid hitting any bystanders.
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