My OBS 7.3L SD Intercooler Install
#16
#18
#20
Well, there's no way around the 4 silicone joints unless you welded the pipes directly to the spider and directly to the intercooler. Plus i'm using riffraff boots.
People just not paying attention to all posts in this thread. That ebay kit, has lots of parts that aren't used. It's just that it's about the same cost to buy a whole kit than to purchase the pipes separately. Plus I got a bunch of leftover parts.
I'm no stranger to boost. I've been building serious cars since I was in my teens before I signed up on this forum in ----> 2003. Aluminum is way better for heat soak than steel. Especially when I ceramic coat them or header wrap them. I wasn't about to spend $1400 on a banks kit with painted steel pipes.
People just not paying attention to all posts in this thread. That ebay kit, has lots of parts that aren't used. It's just that it's about the same cost to buy a whole kit than to purchase the pipes separately. Plus I got a bunch of leftover parts.
I'm no stranger to boost. I've been building serious cars since I was in my teens before I signed up on this forum in ----> 2003. Aluminum is way better for heat soak than steel. Especially when I ceramic coat them or header wrap them. I wasn't about to spend $1400 on a banks kit with painted steel pipes.
#23
#25
No, using an aluminum 90* at IC on passenger side and driver side is a 60*. I cut the passenger side so it's a tight 90* and my friend is welding the lip back on the end. I'm Using Riffraff 3.25x3 boots at IC. I highly doubt I'm going to blow hoses off with lips on the pipes and T bolt clamps, now or with future mods. I am using siliconeintakes hump hoses at the spider. If I have any problems I'll switch to riffraff hump hoses.
#26
Well, there's no way around the 4 silicone joints unless you welded the pipes directly to the spider and directly to the intercooler. Plus i'm using riffraff boots.
People just not paying attention to all posts in this thread. That ebay kit, has lots of parts that aren't used. It's just that it's about the same cost to buy a whole kit than to purchase the pipes separately. Plus I got a bunch of leftover parts.
I'm no stranger to boost. I've been building serious cars since I was in my teens before I signed up on this forum in ----> 2003. Aluminum is way better for heat soak than steel. Especially when I ceramic coat them or header wrap them. I wasn't about to spend $1400 on a banks kit with painted steel pipes.
People just not paying attention to all posts in this thread. That ebay kit, has lots of parts that aren't used. It's just that it's about the same cost to buy a whole kit than to purchase the pipes separately. Plus I got a bunch of leftover parts.
I'm no stranger to boost. I've been building serious cars since I was in my teens before I signed up on this forum in ----> 2003. Aluminum is way better for heat soak than steel. Especially when I ceramic coat them or header wrap them. I wasn't about to spend $1400 on a banks kit with painted steel pipes.
I like the installation of your IC, there, well done IMHO.
In my experience during my installation, the hood latch support doesnt needs to be midified (I modified tho, because all the references said that), what is you opinion.
#27
I rebuilt my support as far back as possible so I could get it in behind the ac condenser. That support wont ever need to come off again to change radiator, condenser, or IC. I just flattened out the condenser brackets in the vice to get it back to make room for the IC. I rubber mounted everything as well.
#28
I rebuilt my support as far back as possible so I could get it in behind the ac condenser. That support wont ever need to come off again to change radiator, condenser, or IC. I just flattened out the condenser brackets in the vice to get it back to make room for the IC. I rubber mounted everything as well.
#30