1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Various years flathead 239 compatibility

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Old 05-05-2016, 11:21 AM
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Various years flathead 239 compatibility

Wishing to go back to a flathead engine in my 51 F1. I have the correct transmission and engine mounts in place. I purchased a bare block on the cheap that came from a 1950 sedan, but it is a tad rough upon further inspection. SO I am perusing craigslist, etc., to see what is out there. I realize that the engines changed a bit over the years from the 40's to early 50's. What I am wondering is, what various flathead types will fit correctly in the 51? I see engines classified as 8BA with RT designation for truck which seem like the "proper" engine, but also older 59 series, etc. How much range in year can I get away with? Also, what about the car versions of the same engine? will they swap in? Seems to me the important thing is the engine mounts/water pumps. Can these be swapped from engine to engine? Basically, I need a general guideline of years, models so that I do not expend a lot of travel time/cash picking up something that wont even fit up right. And yes, I am real new to this engine swap thing. Thanks much for any help/guidance.
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:54 AM
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Thru 1947 trucks, 1948 cars: The distributor is located at the front of the engine between the water pumps. A real b!tch to work on!

1948/53 trucks, 1949/53 cars have a conventional distributor (see pic).

The truck 239 flathead is different than the car 239 flathead.
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:59 PM
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The 48-53 model engines, 8BA, 8RT, and EAB can all be made to fit easily. To fit them into the trucks, you need the truck water pumps which have the correct engine mounts built into them. The older engines, like the 59 series and earlier, all which have an integral bell housing cast into the back of the block, are more difficult to use and wouldn't look correct.
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:18 PM
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You can use a Car engine in your truck, BUT cars from ~'52-on used a different belt system (two narrow belts vs the fat belt that goes around the WP's, generator, and crank), and they used different WP's and motor mounts. If you find a good Car engine you can swap the WP's for truck pieces, swap the crank pulley, and change the generator sheave to use it in a truck.

Are you looking for a drop-in, good running engine? What's "rough" about the one you have?
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:17 PM
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ALBUQ,

the block has one cracked sleeve, a couple of cracks between the head bolt/water jacket, and pretty chewed up valve seats. Many of the bolt threads also seem to have a lot of slop, not holing bolts. I also am lacking generator, water pumps, distributor, oil pump, etc. Trying to balance what it will cost me to build this one up (even though it was a cheap purchase) compared to finding something more "drop-in-able."
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:25 PM
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What 52 Merc said!!!!
Water pumps, fan idler and gen are the main diff.
Where are you located in MO?
Merc's are the best, if you can find them, but you still need the correct pumps ect to fit them in your F1.
You'll also need a truck trans to mount everything easily.
I have 2 51's you could look at if you're not too far from the St Louis area. One is an all original F1 and the other has a Merc in it.

THANX RICH

THANX RICH
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:53 AM
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Rich,

I am bout 2 hours southwest of St. Louis. Other than hearing the name, I am not familiar with the differences of the Merc engines. I know the cars were a step up from the Ford's in terms of added bells and whistles.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 10:59 AM
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The Mercury engines of the same time period, 8CM, EAC, are physically the same as their Ford counterparts. Essentially, the main difference is the stroke is longer.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:25 AM
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Merc,

Forgive my ignorance, but what does the longer stroke equate to? Different physical dimensions, power?
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:46 AM
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Mercs are 255 cubic inches, Fords are 239, so roughly 6% more c.i. It mainly manifests itself as higher torque down low, actual HP difference is "maybe" 10. If you are boring and replacing pistons anyway, it can make sense to use a stroker crankshaft at the same time. It's about, say, $500 for that 10 HP.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:30 PM
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There was a time, when being able to claim having a "merc" engine in your hot rod Ford coupe/Roadster, etc. gave true bragging rights. The longer stroke would take a bit longer to get the full revs up, but the extra grunt was good for clearing the line faster.
 
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:31 PM
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Like 52 Merc said longer stroke of Merc makes more torque.
Torque is a good thing!!!! but not worth a lot of extra cash for what most of us use these vehicles for.
Great for bragging though...
If you ever get up I55 around Festus MO give me an advance heads up and I'd be glad to show you what we're talking about.

THANX RICH
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 01:38 PM
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Farmall are you in Lebanon ? Do you come down to Branson for the Sho Me 100's show? Rich do you come down to Branson for the show also?
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:42 PM
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I don't go to Branson for ANYTHING!!!!

THANX RICH
 
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:37 PM
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Art,
I am noew to the old truck thing. When is the run in Branson this year? I, too do not often get to Branson, too crazy for me. I do plan on stopping in at the nationals in Lebanon TN next week.
 


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