Reman single shots already knocking?
#61
05-10-2016, 07:23 AM
You wouldn't be the first if that were the case. I have personally run without a chip on stage II sticks - it's a mess. You've done your due diligence by retorqueing the injectors, now it's a waiting game until "your chip has come in".
Maybe you're aware - maybe not... so I mention it. Hydra can have the tunes emailed to you. No need to pull the chip, and no waiting.
Maybe you're aware - maybe not... so I mention it. Hydra can have the tunes emailed to you. No need to pull the chip, and no waiting.
#62
05-10-2016, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
You wouldn't be the first if that were the case. I have personally run without a chip on stage II sticks - it's a mess. You've done your due diligence by retorqueing the injectors, now it's a waiting game until "your chip has come in".
Maybe you're aware - maybe not... so I mention it. Hydra can have the tunes emailed to you. No need to pull the chip, and no waiting.
Maybe you're aware - maybe not... so I mention it. Hydra can have the tunes emailed to you. No need to pull the chip, and no waiting.
Being in Oregon it takes a while to ship to Georgia and back. Something I forgot to account for.
#63
05-10-2016, 03:31 PM
Lead Driver
As for the issue of false torque readings due to fluid or debris. I used isopropyl alcohol and a BUNCH of Q-tips to clean out the threads before installing the hold down bolts. I think my torque readings were probably as good as the torque wrench I used on them.
#65
05-10-2016, 07:54 PM
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#67
05-10-2016, 09:54 PM
So far so good. I haven't been under the valve covers in 12-15,000 miles, so I don't believe they have backed out. I wouldn't want to re-torque them now because it would break the loctite and because I haven't had any symptoms of a loose injector, I am not going under there to start any problems.
As for the issue of false torque readings due to fluid or debris. I used isopropyl alcohol and a BUNCH of Q-tips to clean out the threads before installing the hold down bolts. I think my torque readings were probably as good as the torque wrench I used on them.
As for the issue of false torque readings due to fluid or debris. I used isopropyl alcohol and a BUNCH of Q-tips to clean out the threads before installing the hold down bolts. I think my torque readings were probably as good as the torque wrench I used on them.
#70
05-11-2016, 07:53 AM
Hotshot
#73
05-11-2016, 09:00 AM
Lead Driver
But, as I said.....I don't know anything about this.
#74
05-11-2016, 09:35 AM
I've done hot, cold, oil, Lok-Tite, 6 or 7 torque wrenches (some with dials, some with click), hired two mechanics to do it for me (including the dealership), I've used 120, 125, 130, and 135, I've done it standing on my head, but mostly with my head up my butt. I'm pretty sure the diesel guy at the dealership (who owns a 7.3L) knows what he's doing and has the right tools - and one very respected member here tried his hand at it, after making sure the bolt holes where good. Fail, fail, fail, and then fail. The only thing that has really worked for me is the Lok-Tite and 125 in/lbs. Even with that, I've had one work loose within a couple thousand miles of messing with an injector. Once they're solid, I hate touching them. I even had one that was good for a couple of years after torquing it with oil, but it finally jumped out and took a cup with it.
I'm not light-headed enough to think if I keep doing the exact same thing over and over again that I should expect a different result. Between experimental fluids, new bolts (several times), different torque wrenches and hiring people to fail for me - the loose bolt thing alone has cost me about... crap... maybe a couple of thousand if you count lost ELC, oil, cups, tool rental, labor, tools, shipping, supplies, yadda, yadda, yadda. To say I'm doing it wrong is poking the dealership in the ribs, as well as Woodnthings.
I see people saying they never hot-torque and never have problems. I have yet to find an injector bolt within factory torque spec under a virgin valve cover on countless engines. They are always far less. Every time I snug 'em up, the driver reports a quieter-running engine. It leads me to ask the question... of those who "never have issues", has there been a follow-up visit under the VCs just to make sure the torque didn't drift? I can only suspect not if there is no detected issue, but I welcome proof I'm wrong - it would give me hope that I have a shot of being done with this on the engine swap.
I should receive my digital torque adapter this week, and I have one more virgin valve cover to pop. It's going to be checked before I remove the injectors.
I'm not light-headed enough to think if I keep doing the exact same thing over and over again that I should expect a different result. Between experimental fluids, new bolts (several times), different torque wrenches and hiring people to fail for me - the loose bolt thing alone has cost me about... crap... maybe a couple of thousand if you count lost ELC, oil, cups, tool rental, labor, tools, shipping, supplies, yadda, yadda, yadda. To say I'm doing it wrong is poking the dealership in the ribs, as well as Woodnthings.
I see people saying they never hot-torque and never have problems. I have yet to find an injector bolt within factory torque spec under a virgin valve cover on countless engines. They are always far less. Every time I snug 'em up, the driver reports a quieter-running engine. It leads me to ask the question... of those who "never have issues", has there been a follow-up visit under the VCs just to make sure the torque didn't drift? I can only suspect not if there is no detected issue, but I welcome proof I'm wrong - it would give me hope that I have a shot of being done with this on the engine swap.
I should receive my digital torque adapter this week, and I have one more virgin valve cover to pop. It's going to be checked before I remove the injectors.
Considering how many times you have been through this have you checked the threads in the block. sounds like they are done.
And to answer your question, no we cold torque them and leave them alone. Upon disassembly, it sometimes seems sd 7.3s have slightly undertorqued injector bolts than the OBS motors, factory installed or not. Why? I have no clue, but usually breaking a bolt loose is much softer on the SDs than the OBS motors...no idea why. Just an observation.
#75
05-11-2016, 10:00 AM
