OK, so I have all new coils (MotorCraft), boots and grease, springs, plugs (MotorCraft) and anti-seize (still deciding between Al, Cu or Ni) here.

I just looked at the engine .... hmmmmm ... how do you get to the coils?

Yes, I can see them but they look like they are right under the fuel rails.

1) Do I (or maybe the correct question is should I) take off the fuel rails to get at the coils and plugs?

2) If I do (and I have never done this before), do I need new seals (I am guessing they are o-rings) on the injectors? Can you buy just the o-rings?

This is on a 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis) ... very tight area to work in through a hatch in the floor.

Thanks ..... Mike

 

I never had to pull the fuel rails to get the COPs out of a modular. I usually even leave the coils connected to the wiring harness also, to help prevent connector breakage. You remove one bolt (8mm socket if I remember right) and pull up on the COP.

 

I also have never removed the fuel rails on any modular plug change. The coil is not very long, and the coil boot is very flexible so you can get the coils out from under the rails easily.

 

That is great to here! I didn't want to take more off than needed ... probably just cause another problem.

So my only two question left are 1) what torque to put the plugs in at 2) what type of anti-seize.

I posted both of these questions on the forum and found as many opinions as there are people.

Factory spec is 71 - 106 inch pounds with no anti-seize.

Thanks .... Mike

 

I always use a dab of nickel anti-seize because it lasts longer. As far as torque 20ftlbs isn't going to strip the threads out unless they are already shot.