Needing some cam advice for a current rebuild
#1
Needing some cam advice for a current rebuild
Looking for some cam advice.
I am working with a 85 F250 flatbed 4x4, borgwarrner 4 speed trans. Axle ratio 3.54. Engine 300 mildly ported and polished 240 head, offy DP, Carb elderbrock 500 (mite go smaller) if nessary. Oh and a HD300 exhaust manifold.
Plan on using the stock rocker arms for now but roller rockers in the near future. Most likely roller rockers will be my fist upgrade after break in.
I am looking for the a power band from idle to 3,000 rpms.
What are your thoughts?
I am working with a 85 F250 flatbed 4x4, borgwarrner 4 speed trans. Axle ratio 3.54. Engine 300 mildly ported and polished 240 head, offy DP, Carb elderbrock 500 (mite go smaller) if nessary. Oh and a HD300 exhaust manifold.
Plan on using the stock rocker arms for now but roller rockers in the near future. Most likely roller rockers will be my fist upgrade after break in.
I am looking for the a power band from idle to 3,000 rpms.
What are your thoughts?
#2
What is the static compression ratio of your engine? And what is the dynamic compression ratio?
If you want to know how a cam will affect your engine and determine whether you'll be able to use low, mid, or high octane gas, then study a bit and learn about the c.r. If you want to stay on inexpensive gas, then you'll need a dynamic c.r. of 7.5 or below.
Do some searches and read and take notes, use the online calculators you'll find to determine c.r., and d.c.r., and then you'll understand a cam determines the d.c.r. and will be able to make a calculated choice for a cam and your engine.
Or...just buy one and hope for the best.
If you want to know how a cam will affect your engine and determine whether you'll be able to use low, mid, or high octane gas, then study a bit and learn about the c.r. If you want to stay on inexpensive gas, then you'll need a dynamic c.r. of 7.5 or below.
Do some searches and read and take notes, use the online calculators you'll find to determine c.r., and d.c.r., and then you'll understand a cam determines the d.c.r. and will be able to make a calculated choice for a cam and your engine.
Or...just buy one and hope for the best.
#5
#6
Call your cam grinder........advertized lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertized and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $.
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $.
#7
If all you've done to the engine is swap on a 240 head then you shouldn't have any worries. If the block was decked or you swapped to different pistons then all bets are off. For that rpm range go with the smallest cam in the manufacturer's catalog - i.e Comp 252h, Isky Mil-a-Mor, etc.
No the block hasn't been decked. For the age of the block I was surprised it has just .030 over pistons. That gives me a great starting point. "Comp 252h, Isky Mil-a-Mor". Thanks again.
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#8
Call your cam grinder........advertized lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertized and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $.
I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $.
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