80,000 miles on truck, time for maintenance!
#18
under the seat, nearly smack dab in the center. Easiest to get to them by sliding the seat all the way forward and also tilting the seat bottom up.
Then climb around from the back floor board and you'll see 'em. 1 per side. 1/4 turn to release them.
Then climb around from the back floor board and you'll see 'em. 1 per side. 1/4 turn to release them.
#20
Just ordered all of the stuff through Rock Auto. Just went with OEM on everything. It was cheaper than getting it through the dealer plus they don't always stock everything. I'm gonna go pick up all the fluids today locally as well. For now I guess I'll just stick with the stock intake until I decide to start modding things.
EDIT: Also, decided use the factory SP-534 spark plugs gapped to .030". 5 Star recommends using them, so that's what I'll go with. I've not done enough digging yet to figure out what I want to do about any other upgrades at this time unless someone out there recommends something.
EDIT: Also, decided use the factory SP-534 spark plugs gapped to .030". 5 Star recommends using them, so that's what I'll go with. I've not done enough digging yet to figure out what I want to do about any other upgrades at this time unless someone out there recommends something.
#22
#24
#25
Got all the parts in yesterday. Just need to pick up the differential fluid and I should be ready to go. Here's the parts list again:
Updated OEM spark plugs
OEM air filter
Updated OEM seat filters
OEM serpentine and v-belts
Mobil 1 75W-90 LS front diff fluid
Mobil 1 75W-140 LS rear diff fluid
BG fully synthetic ATF for transmission and transfer case
OEM orange coolant for coolant flush
Wynn's direct injected fuel and intake system cleaner
Updated OEM spark plugs
OEM air filter
Updated OEM seat filters
OEM serpentine and v-belts
Mobil 1 75W-90 LS front diff fluid
Mobil 1 75W-140 LS rear diff fluid
BG fully synthetic ATF for transmission and transfer case
OEM orange coolant for coolant flush
Wynn's direct injected fuel and intake system cleaner
#29
Got it all done!
Started with the transmission flush first since I drove into work and wanted the fluid hot. Ended up tapping into the cooler line in the front at the cooler with the flush machine. Ran about 16 quarts of fluid through it with it running. Pretty straight forward. Also, while this was going I did a coolant flush. Pulled the line off the top of the coolant reservoir and along with the cap, put the extractor hose in the line, and let the engine run while pulling coolant through the line. While pulling coolant out I started pouring fresh stuff into the reservoir to replace the stuff I was pulling out. Ran about 4 gallons of coolant through the system with the heat on full blast, figured that was plenty to get fresh stuff in there. Trans fluid was definitely burnt smelling, coolant didn't look too bad at all.
After completing those I decided it was time to do the fuel system service since the engine was still hot. Took off the right valve cover breather hose and used the intake port to pull the decarb foam into the engine for a bit at 2000 RPM then choked the engine out with it and let it sit for 15 minutes. Started the engine back up and repeated the process again to try and get the most I could off the intake valves. After that I sprayed the intake/throttle body cleaner into the turbo inlet pipes after the air box to get the rest of the intake system cleaned out and finished it with the additive in the fuel tank. After letting the engine cool down I then installed the updated 13+ spark plugs, cleaned the air box, and installed a new air fitler. The plugs were definitely older as the porcelain areas were darkened.
Now it was time to tackle the underneath stuff. I sucked the fluid out of the front and rear diffs and refilled them with the proper fluid since they do not have drain plugs. Kind of a PITA, but it works. Thankfully the transfer case has a drain plug, so that went much quicker. Fluids didn't look too terrible, but enough to warrant the fluid changes.
After lowering the truck back down I hopped in and replaced the seat filters. The updated ones are now lifetime and don't require replacement, mine still had the originals. Then I decided to tackle the belts. The serpentine belt is straight forward with the tensioner but the A/C belt is a stretch belt which if you've never dealt with them they can be a PITA. I cut the original off to make it faster since I didn't have the removal tool. Thankfully there's a nifty trick to getting the new one on. The crank pulley is hollow and has 3 arms connecting the outside to the center. You can use a zip tie through the crank pulley to pull the new belt on around it. Worked like a charm!
So now at this point all of my maintenance besides brake fluid is done. I will wait to do the brake fluid until I replace the pads and rotors. But it seems maintenance wise I'm good to go for a while!
Started with the transmission flush first since I drove into work and wanted the fluid hot. Ended up tapping into the cooler line in the front at the cooler with the flush machine. Ran about 16 quarts of fluid through it with it running. Pretty straight forward. Also, while this was going I did a coolant flush. Pulled the line off the top of the coolant reservoir and along with the cap, put the extractor hose in the line, and let the engine run while pulling coolant through the line. While pulling coolant out I started pouring fresh stuff into the reservoir to replace the stuff I was pulling out. Ran about 4 gallons of coolant through the system with the heat on full blast, figured that was plenty to get fresh stuff in there. Trans fluid was definitely burnt smelling, coolant didn't look too bad at all.
After completing those I decided it was time to do the fuel system service since the engine was still hot. Took off the right valve cover breather hose and used the intake port to pull the decarb foam into the engine for a bit at 2000 RPM then choked the engine out with it and let it sit for 15 minutes. Started the engine back up and repeated the process again to try and get the most I could off the intake valves. After that I sprayed the intake/throttle body cleaner into the turbo inlet pipes after the air box to get the rest of the intake system cleaned out and finished it with the additive in the fuel tank. After letting the engine cool down I then installed the updated 13+ spark plugs, cleaned the air box, and installed a new air fitler. The plugs were definitely older as the porcelain areas were darkened.
Now it was time to tackle the underneath stuff. I sucked the fluid out of the front and rear diffs and refilled them with the proper fluid since they do not have drain plugs. Kind of a PITA, but it works. Thankfully the transfer case has a drain plug, so that went much quicker. Fluids didn't look too terrible, but enough to warrant the fluid changes.
After lowering the truck back down I hopped in and replaced the seat filters. The updated ones are now lifetime and don't require replacement, mine still had the originals. Then I decided to tackle the belts. The serpentine belt is straight forward with the tensioner but the A/C belt is a stretch belt which if you've never dealt with them they can be a PITA. I cut the original off to make it faster since I didn't have the removal tool. Thankfully there's a nifty trick to getting the new one on. The crank pulley is hollow and has 3 arms connecting the outside to the center. You can use a zip tie through the crank pulley to pull the new belt on around it. Worked like a charm!
So now at this point all of my maintenance besides brake fluid is done. I will wait to do the brake fluid until I replace the pads and rotors. But it seems maintenance wise I'm good to go for a while!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Podaso
1997 - 2003 F150
11
02-10-2011 09:45 PM