Yesterday I finished replacing both of the wheel cyl.s and the front brakes. I greased the wheel bearings and installed the new seals. Today I replaced the master cylinder. That was the good news. I had a 1/2" drive ratchet laying on the top of the grill, and while reaching over to install the last nut on the MC, the ratchet fell down through the grill. NO big deal, I'll get it in a minute. Finished with the MC nut and while picking up tools from the fenders, I noticed my foot was wet. I looked down and my shoe was lime green. The ratchet had barley touched the radiator, but I guess it was enough, or the metal tube (rod) was thin. Ms. Money Pit has struck again. I'll look for one at the junk yard. Anyone know which engines or years will interchange. Mine does not have the big super cooling rad. (390 eng, auto trans,'69 camper special)

 

Garykip Just don't forget the reason they call those places junk yards.

Due to the way of the flow the tubes will plug up in the lower tank first where it can't be seen. And vehicles get less care that are may be headed to those places when in poor condition..

67-79 f100 & 250's as long as it's a big block V8 .
Orich

 

Like Orich says, and I think you can add '66 - but not '65 - because I have a '75-ish rad in my '66. Don't forget you need the integral trans cooler.
Eric

 

I know people would rather have an all brass, but I have installed a few aluminum with plastic tanks with good results. Three row core, and under $150 from 1-800-Radiator. I am going to put one in my diesel build.
If you are dead set on being OE style, then it needs to be a V8 and have the same mounting as yours. They had either front or rear mount. Front mount bolts the radiator straight to the support, while rear mount had a bracket.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I wasn't sure how high in years I could go(79) and I didn't know that they had two different mounts. All good to know. I'll go look on Monday. Thanks again!

 

good luck on finding a good radiator gary.. it is like most stuff sometimes you have good luck with a used..and sometimes it is just like (or worse) than the one you took out.. i am not sure about those aluminum with the plastic tank ones.. i put a new one in my f100 with the 300 6cyl.. it lasted 10 months and never once offered to get hot.. then one day cruising to the shop a/c not even on it blew the anti-freeze out i stopped and it had a 12" crack at the very top of the upper plastic tank.... i replaced it with a brass radiator i found for the same price.. i haven't driven the truck yet so not sure if it is better or not

 

if you were closer you could get the radiator i took out of my f350 when i installed a larger one.. it still worked good with no leaks..

 

Not so much the choke warm up time. It's mostly to keep the carb temp more or less constant under normal warmed-up conditions. Fuel atomization, hence fuel economy and performance, is improved through a warm carburetor to a point. But there is a practical limit to heating the carb before it begins to boil/volatilize the gasoline, which creates a whole new set of problems. Also, and in some locations where low temperatures are a problem, warming the carburator with a coolant base plate can prevent icing, since volatilizing gasoline can drop the temperature of the carb quite dramatically.

So, depending on environmental and load conditions, the coolant flow base plate helps to partially isolate the carburetor bowl/s from direct conduction of the heat generated by the engine and partially ensure it stays at a proper temperature to prevent icing. This temperature isolation by the "constant" temperature coolant flow helps keeps the carburator and gasoline at a relatively optimal temperature to promote atomization in the in-rushing air through the carburetor throats. Performance and economy are improved, thereby, in theory.

 

Nice find! Camper Specials from 1969 are nice to have. I had to smile at the custom box for fluids under the hood on top of the driver's side inner fender. That slightly suggests the old girl has been marking her territory with different flavors of goo wherever she may pause. Gaskets and tune-up and rebuilding various components should take care of that proclivity of hers.

I notice slight rust issues here and there, but nothing obviously scary. Ditto the few love bumps she's accumulated on her body over the years. Just shows she's a working girl, not a glamor model is all.

 

Thanks, Yes this truck has worked in a hay pasture for most of it's years. Then a teacher drove it as his Daily Driver for two years. Then it sat for five years in a hay field.

 

I went to the JY today. I found a 71 F250 camper special there. I pulled the rad. only to find a small hole in the front. But the 71 has disk brakes on the front and the inner fenders are in great shape. As farmallmta noticed, I need new inner fenders and a hood. The yard workers didn't pull the brake calipers off (yet). I got the second battery carrier/tray. Then I found a 77 camper special that had a good looking rad. So I got it and the windshield washer container which has a metal shield on the side closest to the P.S. pump belt. I also took the ignition switch(blade style connectors). The girl at the checkout charged me $48 after taxes so a good day all around. I can't wait to go back for the disk brake set up and those inner fenders!!! Any fitment issues in regards to the pitman arm. Mine has the bendix steering box and the 71 has a Ford steering box?

 

Thanks for the offer! But hang onto it, I'm betting that you'll find a use for it.-lol

 

gary that is one thing good about having over 40 acres..i dont never have to throw anything away.. i have a 92 ford van i just bought to use as my bump side ford parts storage.... i still have about 6-7 bumps out back that i have not crushed yet.. i will keep them around for parts as long as i still have bumps i am using

http://s202.photobucket.com/user/rcp...cs012.jpg.html

 

I got back from vacation (In Loreto, -Baja-Mexico) and started back on the F250 brake system. I got the pass. side rear axle out, with no problem. But I had to turn the automatic adjustment wheel forever before the brake drum would loosen up. Well, just like the front brakes, the rear was full of surprises. The brake material were completely gone from the metal shoes.

naked shoes!

 

Of course the drums were grooved up good too(I'm sure a shop couldn't turn them down enough). So, until I can get back to the JY(for a better set of drums), I will put the old front brake shoes on the rears and leave the old drums on. I figured there was no need to put on new brakes shoes and have the grooved drums ruin them.