No the light never comes on.

 

Is that a sure sign of bad PCM?

I tried the non foulers and it seemed to help a little but still get smoke on acceleration

And what PCM do I get?

 

Looking back at the codes you listed tells me the harness to these sensors is in trouble and the Sensors are oil contaminated.
Until the oil gets under control any new sensors will get contaminated again.
The harness opens clues are the heaters open.
The no and slow responses is the contamination plus the loss of the heaters.
It's all in the codes.
Don't blame the PCM for all this butcher work.
Good luck.

 

I tested the harness from all sensors to PCM and the sensors themselves and all but the one sensor was good which has been replaced...

I'm not sure what you mean by butcher work but I have done all the tests and still seems to point toward bad PCM.

With all the good luck you have provided I should have a new truck lol

Thanks for the luck!!

 

If the MIL lamp does not turn on at KOEO (Bulb Check), check fuse #29 (5A) in the Central Junction Box. It supplies power to the MIL lamp (among other things), while the PCM provides a ground for the MIL lamp circuit to turn the MIL lamp on. Also, check the MIL lamp itself for a burned out lamp.

 

Have checked all fuses but will look at 29 again. And will pull buld and test

 

Haven't had time to work on this truck in awhile.

Still trying to get to the bottom of the issue. Have installed new catalytic converters and re checked all wiring, fuses, bulbs and so on. Oil hasent moved a millimeter on the stick nor has coolant. Compression all good new spark plugs and checked injectors, all good, still grayish smoke out exhaust that smells super rich burning eyes. and it goes through gas quicker then u can add it.

I'm still thinking pcm but is there a good way to test it before ordering one?

 

You have done everything but change the motor.
For fuel richness it's time a Scanner was used to look at the fuel tables to see if they are actually shifted rich instead of guessing more and spending on a PCM that likely is not the problem..
Testing of the PCM is done by looking at the live data then finding the cause of what is out of limits.
Good luck.

 

What do I look at on the scanner have one just haven't used it much.

 

If I unplug all the o2 sensors shouldnt the check engine light come on?

 

Yes, for two reasons.
1. The PCM would not see the Sensor voltage moving as it normally would.
2. The PCM is not detecting the current drawn by the sensor Heaters.
It can't bee the PCM because to many different faults would be present.
These can be detected with a Scanner.
This results in one or two codes for each bank beginning with 0052 to 0064 for heater circuit issues and 0134 and /or 140 for no sensor activity. Look those codes up to see.
When the OX sensors do not work, the PCM references a Fixed fuel table for each bank that is 'normally' rich by intent.
Your at the point you must test these conditions with a Scanner because your out of guessing, any longer.
Good thing your doctor does not guess when you go to see him and bases his treatments on experience and tests when he's not sure.
You have to do the same with a complex computer control system.
Good luck.

 

Okay so I hooked the scanner up

Fuel system status B1 indicates OL, not ready CL KOEO
B2 just has - KOEO

Both short term fuel trim for B1 and B2 are 47.87% KOEO
Both long term are 0% KOEO

All these are with engine at idle after start up

Fuel system status B1 CL, using HO2S. Then switches to OL, fault after few min of idle or CL, HO2S

Fuel system status B2 -

Both short term fuel trim slowly come down to 0%
At 2500 rpm both short term fluctuate between + and -
B1 will go up to +30% B2 -30%

Ignition timing goes between 16-23° at idle and 24-30° at 2500 rpm

Had code P1152 also no CEL at anytime though.

Passenger side O2 sensor is new as it was the only one that tested bad when I checked them all.

Does this info help anyone with advice for the problem?

 

Okay so I hooked the scanner up

Fuel system status B1 indicates OL, not ready CL KOEO
B2 just has - KOEO

Both short term fuel trim for B1 and B2 are 47.87% KOEO
Both long term are 0% KOEO

All these are with engine at idle after start up

Fuel system status B1 CL, using HO2S. Then switches to OL, fault after few min of idle or CL, HO2S

Fuel system status B2 -

Both short term fuel trim slowly come down to 0%
At 2500 rpm both short term fluctuate between + and -
B1 will go up to +30% B2 -30%

Ignition timing goes between 16-23° at idle and 24-30° at 2500 rpm

Had code P1152 also no CEL at anytime though.

Passenger side O2 sensor is new as it was the only one that tested bad when I checked them all.

Does this info help anyone with advice for the problem?

 

Here is what you have,
KOEO= Key on engine off. These reading are not useful for your problem.
.
B1 = BANK 1 passenger side.
B1 goes closed loop as referenced from Ox sensor 1 front operation.
Then goes open loop as referenced from Ox sensor 1-1.
Long Term Fuel trim 1 goes to 30% rich (as you would expect) it to do in reaction to an open loop condition.
The code 1152 confirms this condition.
.
At 2500 rpm, you indicate the OX sensor 1 is working again.
This indicates to me an intermittent condition.
.
Watch the OX sensor 1 switching continuously and see if it is intermittent in operation. Hold different rpm levels long enough to see if it stops and begins again.
If yes, you have a connector plug, wire harness, or even an intermittent at the PCM connector because the signal back to the PCM is going open and losted.
The PCM reacts to this as it was designed to do by going to a fixed rich fuel table to feed the bank instead of causing the motor to have such a problem running that it leaves you stranded out on the road.
A fixed fuel table is not a large serious problem in the short term until repaired.
Bank 2 is fault free. Use it as a reference. Both banks must work the same way but the readings will be a little different because they work independently.
Once you see all the relationships it's not so bad.
Just run down bank 1 Ox sensor issue.
Don't use an Ohm meter to test the OX sensor 'element', only the heater side of it's operation because you will be connecting Ohm meter's battery to an element that can be damaged from it.
Good luck.

 

Just thought I would update and say that after getting a pcm from junk yard the truck has never ran better. Smoking stopped has more power better fuel economy and so much more.... wish I would have just changed it right when I said it was the problem, could of saved alot of hassle from all the try this test that... oh well give you all something to remember