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I replaced my temp gauge on the 226 H engine F-6 and the new gauge jumps fast to "Hot" only a minute after its started. The old gauge read about 3/4 of the gauge range.
I see that the thermostat spec says open at 177-182 deg F (fully) on the H. What should the engine temp be for operation?
I purchased a temp reading gun and my engine operates after about 5-10 minutes parked at 177-187ish on the front top side of the block. Towards the bottom of the block it decreases to around 155-160 deg F.
The intake manifold side is around 227-295 deg F (at different areas), but I would expect that.
What range is the gauge suppose to represent? I think this is the gauge and not the temp sensor...
What range is the gauge suppose to represent? I think this is the gauge and not the temp sensor...
It's questions like that, that was asked by hundreds of Caterpillar customers, that prompted them to produce gauges like this. The actual temperatures will vary from machine to machine by a few degrees, so the gauge readings are relative. If it's green it's good, if it's red it's bad. If you're an operator, that's all you really need to know.
I replaced my temp gauge on the 226 H engine F-6 and the new gauge jumps fast to "Hot" only a minute after its started. The old gauge read about 3/4 of the gauge range. I would double check your ground and your voltage on that gauge.
I see that the thermostat spec says open at 177-182 deg F (fully) on the H. What should the engine temp be for operation? The engine temperature will vary depending on the load and thermostat settings. Ideally, for thermal efficiency and engine oil life, it would be around 190° to 200°F, but maintaining an average of 180° would be good. Over 210°F oil will begin to coke. Under 140° oil will begin to gum and won't boil out moisture that is held in suspension.
I purchased a temp reading gun and my engine operates after about 5-10 minutes parked at 177-187ish on the front top side of the block. Towards the bottom of the block it decreases to around 155-160 deg F.
The intake manifold side is around 227-295 deg F (at different areas), but I would expect that. That is also the exhaust manifold side. Remember that you are reading the air-cooled radiated outside temperature, not the inside.
As an aside, if you really wanted to know the calibration of your temperature gauge, you would submerge the sending unit along with a type K thermocouple (connected to your DMM) in a pan of water and bring to a boil. It should be noted that no two gauges will read exactly the same either.
It's questions like that, that was asked by hundreds of Caterpillar customers, that prompted them to produce gauges like this. The actual temperatures will vary from machine to machine by a few degrees, so the gauge readings are relative. If it's green it's good, if it's red it's bad. If you're an operator, that's all you really need to know.
Yea, but us purists want to use original gauges that have cold and hot. Typical temp gauge rule of thumb I was taught is center. Once it goes right towards hot she keeps going .. And by your gauge mine is red and bad....But it's the gauge. I wanted to know what the gauge was designed for mechanically, meaning what temps....
I did check ground it it's good. The voltage is 6.10v.
The old gauge reads close to center, new hot in a few seconds..
As for outside temp, yes I'm measuring that. But does that mean I can calculate the internal temp based on that.
I did check ground it it's good. The voltage is 6.10v.
The old gauge reads close to center, new hot in a few seconds..
As for outside temp, yes I'm measuring that. But does that mean I can calculate the internal temp based on that.
Yes, but you need the specific absorption and dissipation coefficient rates of the material (cast iron) you are testing through.
Either the new gauge is bad or it's calibrated differently. Like I said before, you will never get two gauges to be exactly alike (except in certified testing standards gauges, that is). For a rough test, remove the radiator cap and put a thermometer in the top tank and run the engine up to the point where the temperature stabilizes and read the thermometer and compare it to the truck gauge. Next, perform the same task using the new temperature gauge and note the difference. Personally, I think the needle being in the middle is too cold. If the cooling system is properly sized for the BTU output (and clean) of the engine at rated load and HP there shouldn't be a problem at all with 180°F.
Yes, but you need the specific absorption and dissipation coefficient rates of the material (cast iron) you are testing through.
Either the new gauge is bad or it's calibrated differently. Like I said before, you will never get two gauges to be exactly alike (except in certified testing standards gauges, that is). For a rough test, remove the radiator cap and put a thermometer in the top tank and run the engine up to the point where the temperature stabilizes and read the thermometer and compare it to the truck gauge. Next, perform the same task using the new temperature gauge and note the difference. Personally, I think the needle being in the middle is too cold. If the cooling system is properly sized for the BTU output (and clean) of the engine at rated load and HP there shouldn't be a problem at all with 180°F.
The manual states the temp switch opens at 200-212 F. It mentions the 8 cylinder though with two switches and one temp sender? So it wasn't clear to me. It also states center on the gauge is "normal" operating Once I have a chance I'll replace the new gauge with the old and test them.
It also states center on the gauge is "normal" operating Once I have a chance I'll replace the new gauge with the old and test them.
That's "1950's normal". Technology and knowledge have evolved tremendously. Believe me, your engine will run a lot easier and cleaner at 180°, but do what you will.
well ran a ground right to the cluster and no go, still only reads HOT (pegged).
Cluster coming back out, old gauge probably going back in... Testing first.
04-24-2016, 08:09 AM
And by your gauge mine is red and bad....But it's the gauge. I wanted to know what the gauge was designed for mechanically, meaning what temps....
