Hi guys, first my van was getting worst and worst. My garage first put the choke a bit higher and it help. Then when the winter come in BC it was getting harder to start. I had to crank it, turn it on (does not start). Then wait 5 minutes. Do it again. Generally by the 4 time it start when to start, so I can see there is fire burning. Then 2 more time usually and it works. Fine that the better timing a crank it while turn the keys one it helps. But then I left my van for like 1 months without using it and now it just does not start at all. My spark plug cable have been change not so long ago before I buy it. So look maybe something related to the fuel, maybe the fuel pump? Do you guys have and idea and do you have I way to test so issues?

Thank
Kev

 

Hi Kev, welcome to the forum.

This sounds mostly like a carburetor problem, especially if the temperatures outside are chilly. The choke plate setting is absolutely critical to starting and idling a cold engine so start there. If you pump the gas pedal 3 or 4 times before trying to start it, that will help but it won't keep the engine idling without the correct choke setting.

Manual choke controlled from the driver's seat by a cable were a great feature but some folks could not be taught to use them so automatic chokes became the standard. jim

 

Here is what my choke look like before turning the key. Do you think it should be more close. How can I do it?

 

When it is cold, that choke plate should be closed all the way, after you have pressed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and release it.

Can you take a couple more pics of the carb?
I need to see this side of the carburetor:
http://grantorinosport.org/BubbaF250...0_rside_01.jpg
It is either a ford 2100 or a 2150. Normally to adjust the choke you will be concerned with the black choke spring cap (#5) and the choke pull down (#2) in the picture.

You first adjust the black cap to close the choke and then adjust the pull down to automatically open the choke just a little once the engine starts.

Watch this video up to 1:15.. The rest of the video will not apply right now.. If you stop the video right at 1:15 seconds, you can see the 3 screws that hold the metal retaining ring tight onto the black choke spring cap. You can also see arrows on the black choke cap point to "LEAN". You will need to loosen the three screws just enough to turn the choke cap the opposite direction fro lean. You want the choke plate to close all the way.
Stop the video at 41 seconds and you will see the choke cap adjustment pointer. You should also see little markers on the choke cap that function as a scale to adjust the choke cap. Once the choke just closes all the way, turn the choke cap 2 more points towards closed and tighten the 3 screws back up.
Now you will be ready to start the engine and adjust the choke pull down.




There are a couple of different ways to adjust how far the choke is opened. I hope your garage did it the proper way.


Once the engine starts, the choke pull down should open the choke plate immediately about 7/32 of an inch, or 5.5563mm.
There is a adjustment screw on the end of the Choke pull down. seen here
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f80212267.jpg
I do not remember which direction to turn it to open or close the choke..

Here is a picture with someone using a allen wrench to gauge the 7/73 opening on the choke plate.
http://s453.photobucket.com/user/Ris...10556.jpg.html

Start from here.. some carbs require the choke plate to be a little more closed to idle properly when cold.

The choke pull down can go bad and it will not open the choke once the engine is started. IF the adjustment is too far off, it will not open or will open too much.
SO once you get the choke adjusted to where it is closed using the choke adjustment cap, start the engine. IF the choke does not open immediately, you can quickly reach down and manually open it with your fingers..

If the engine starts right up but the choke plate does not open right up, do not let the engine run more then about 30 seconds as the choke heater will start to open the choke within 2 minutes.. You will need to adjust the choke pull off before the choke starts to warm up and open..

 

besides getting your choke set properly, you might want to invest in an inexpensive multimeter and check your battery voltage before you even attempt to crank van. You need about 12.7 volts to crank easy. I read or saw something recently that said, even sitting not hooked to anything a battery "can" lose 1% of it's charge per day. Note the word "can". Add into that older vehicle with maybe a stray electrical drain from something, you could have a combination of problems.
Besides that, you may have grounding issues from corrosion at various places. My sons Camaro got to where it wouldn't start reliably and I found white powder corrosion in the spark plug boots. I've also had a Toyota truck once that would start even with a fresh battery and I had to buy a battery brush and really scour inside the factory battery terminals. Couldn't see any corrosion, but must've been there, because never an issue after that.
You can also buy an inexpensive inline firing checker, which is a little spark plug wire with a clear plastic bulb build in it, from which you can see the "fire" going to the actual spark plug. They are about $5. If your "fire" going to the plug isn't hot enough, or strong enough spark, you can see it.

 

Also meant to add, using the same multimeter mentioned, once your van is running test the probes to the battery terminals and checking your running voltage to verify your alternator, should be up over 14 volts running. You could also have an alternator going out, either not fully recharging your battery or even possibly putting a drain on it.