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1948 Ford F6 Need to move engine and gearbox

   
  #16  
Old 04-25-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well, I didn't move the engine yet since the bolts on the trans mount aren't worn and if I move the trans over I'd need to drill. Not good.
The plate came off quite easily when I took the bolts off. It's clean and it great shape.
I'm out of ideas. My clutch equalizer is the correct part number, my socket looks good. I'm still off 1/4-1/2". The rod that the equalizer connects too moves in and out of the clutch housing about a 1/2". I'm clueless about clutches so could the fork be off and require moving down the rod so that the rod wouldn't slop down 1/2"?

The trans cross bracket and trans, etc are level so I don't think it's warped.
I wonder what the difference is in equalizer shafts.


Maybe you have the wrong shaft? That equalizer is spring loaded so that it holds the assembly in place against the ball mounted to the frame. Maybe somebody else knows the difference.
 
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  #17  
Old 04-25-2016, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well, I didn't move the engine yet since the bolts on the trans mount aren't worn and if I move the trans over I'd need to drill. Not good.
The plate came off quite easily when I took the bolts off. It's clean and it great shape.
I'm out of ideas. My clutch equalizer is the correct part number, my socket looks good. I'm still off 1/4-1/2". The rod that the equalizer connects too moves in and out of the clutch housing about a 1/2". I'm clueless about clutches so could the fork be off and require moving down the rod so that the rod wouldn't slop down 1/2"?

The trans cross bracket and trans, etc are level so I don't think it's warped.
If you have a 1/2" of movement, that is way too much. You stated when you first got this truck that the PO told you there was a problem with the clutch fork. At this point, I believe that you have to 'bite the bullet' and pull either the engine of the transmission so that you can see what is wrong inside the clutch housing.
 
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  #18  
Old 04-25-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
...
From the centerline of the pin that connects the equalizer to the clutch shaft in the bellhousing to the end of the equalizer is 7 5/8". From the centerline of the pin to the edge of the frame rail is also 7 5/8", the end of the equalizer and edge of the frame rail should be in line. From the centerline of the pin to the side of the clutch shaft bushing boss on the bellhousing is 5/8". I hope this all makes sense. These photos and dimensions are from a '49 F4 which would be the same as your F6.
Mark
Chrislynn, how do your measurements compare to these provided by Mark?
 
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  #19  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:42 PM
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Here is a pic of the 7rt-7503 shaft, and I think that is the right shaft for the f6, not sure, anyway this one is NOS and is 7 5/8 from pin center to end also.


 
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  #20  
Old 04-26-2016, 06:54 AM
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yep, mine is the same.

Do you know if you can take the clutch housing off while still on the truck?
I have to pull the whole clutch and transmission out to adjust the fork?

Thanx.
 
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  #21  
Old 04-26-2016, 08:35 AM
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I would pull the clutch inspection cover and see what you have. Doesn't sound like the clutch release fork is sitting behind the throw out bearing right. That shaft will move in and out without a pp and bearing.
 
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  #22  
Old 04-26-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well, I didn't move the engine yet since the bolts on the trans mount aren't worn and if I move the trans over I'd need to drill. Not good.
The plate came off quite easily when I took the bolts off. It's clean and it great shape.
I'm out of ideas. My clutch equalizer is the correct part number, my socket looks good. I'm still off 1/4-1/2". The rod that the equalizer connects too moves in and out of the clutch housing about a 1/2". I'm clueless about clutches so could the fork be off and require moving down the rod so that the rod wouldn't slop down 1/2"?

The trans cross bracket and trans, etc are level so I don't think it's warped.
Ok, I got a better view into the inspection window on the trans. And I did see it would have to come out to work on it
If I can slide the equalizer rod (That connects to the equalizer shaft), it could be the fork is off. It looks new inside the clutch
So that rod would be flush with the casing on the opposite side of the equalizer shaft.


Do I need an engine lift to get it out (the trans), I can't lift the truck but could come through the cab...


Thanx.
 
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  #23  
Old 04-26-2016, 06:56 PM
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I'll try to get a better pic...
 
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  #24  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Do I need an engine lift to get it out (the trans), I can't lift the truck but could come through the cab...


Thanx.
Yes, the trans comes out through the cab. Remove the seat.

 
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  #25  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:54 PM
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How much can you move the clutch fork in-and-out? Have you measured the movement?
 
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:55 PM
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thanx, do you have a picture of the whole lift? I assume it's swinging under the truck on one side. Did you take the door(s) off?
 
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
thanx, do you have a picture of the whole lift? I assume it's swinging under the truck on one side. Did you take the door(s) off?
I did not take the doors off. The lift arm fits in there carefully.

Here's a shot of the lift.

 
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  #28  
Old 04-26-2016, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
How much can you move the clutch fork in-and-out? Have you measured the movement?
Well, do you mean the clutch equalizer rod in and out of the housing with the fork on it? Then approx. 1/4 to 1/2". Here's the video.
 
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  #29  
Old 04-26-2016, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger Joe
I did not take the doors off. The lift arm fits in there carefully.

Here's a shot of the lift.

nice, I'm going to have to look into getting one of those
 
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  #30  
Old 04-26-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chrislynn5
Well, do you mean the clutch equalizer rod in and out of the housing with the fork on it? Then approx. 1/4 to 1/2". Here's the video.
That's not right. Something isn't right inside.
 
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