'm running a 1411 Edelbrock carb on a Edelbrock 2166 intake atop a Ford 460. The 460 is mounted in my 1982 Ford E350 based Class C Motorhome. I'm using the recommended 1483 and 1495 Edelbrock linkage adapters and everything drives a C6 automatic with GearVendors overdrive. The engine was professionally remanufactured about 8,000 miles ago and has a RV torque cam. The camshaft timing has been reset to 0 degrees and it runs rather well below 3.000 rpm. Above that it seems to run out of breath by 4,000 rpm. While checking details, I found that with the accelerator pedal fully depressed, I was not fully opening the carb throttle and it appeared that the mechanical secondaries were not opening! I moved the throttle cable connection at the 1483 linkage to the second available hole since the measured lever arm to the throttle shaft was shorter than the first of two holes I used and there was a small improvement. Now the secondaries are starting to open but far from completely! There appears to be no way to modify the length of the cable stroke on the E-series van. Is this a common problem? I'm about to drill more holes in the 1483 adapter. Are there any suggestions for other options or for the proper lever arm distance to use for this application with the 1483 adapter? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm attaching a diagram of the 1982 E350 throttle linkage for the 460 and a photo of the 1483 linkage adapter for better visualization of the problem. Any help greatly appreciated.

 

Perhaps a "bell crank" style mod or just buy a bell crank and modify to fit.................

 

Are you actually running out of cable when it stops or out of pedal travel. They should be the same but when swapping things around everything gets out of whack it seems. If the pedal is on the floor can the throttle be opened further by reaching down with your hand and trying to open it further or do you need to unhook the cable to get it to open all the way? If you are out of cable you might be able to move the cable further back in the bracket as the stock travel should be enough to open the eddy carb just fine..
It could be your kickdown needs adjusted also, It should be all the way back at the same time your throttle is wide open

 

When the pedal is on the floor, I can reach over and turn the throttle on the carb further to the stop. Its possible that the kick down rod has enough play that I can over force it to deflect the necessary amount to finish opening the throttle, but provides enough resistance to stop the cable. More checking tomorrow! Thanks. Bell crank might be the best solution if I can't get the stroke with drilling the adapter.

 

Your suggestion that the throttle was being stopped from full travel by a mis-adjusted kick down rod was correct! I finally got back to the problem in past few days and replaced the Edelbrock 1411 that I had been using with an Edelbrock 1406 (same Edelbrock 1483 kick down adapter used). During that install, I discovered that I had a seriously mis-adjusted kick down rod, which indeed stopped throttle travel at about 3/4 of the available design. This was due to a seriously incorrectly adjusted kick down screw which essentially stopped throttle travel long before full throttle when the kick down rod ran to full stop.

With the 1406 install, I first locked the throttle in the full open position, then adjusted the kick down rod, added two 1/4" washers to reduce the sideways motion and then adjusted the kick down screw for a 0.060" gap for the throttle against the kick down level at full stop. I then reconnected the accelerator cable and verified that full pedal stroke gave full carburetor throttle opening. During this whole sequence, I also found the cruise control actuator to have a great deal of slack. This was also adjusted to specifications.