The plate was covering nothing. I have not cleaned that spot up yet bet it does not appear to be cracked or damage. Time will tell.

 

Probably wont bag it Josh, just a SBC and auto trans. Maybe switch the Coleman front axle out for a spare closed knuckle Dana 44 I have.

 

Wow, Coleman really believed in heavy duty front hubs! Did they use the same parts up through F-8 or something?

 

Here's the ad showing the application for F-2 through F-7. I know the five lug hubs would have been F-2 through F-6, but don't know if the axle itself was same through F-7. If Mark doesn't know, I'm sure Chuck will. Wonder why the ad doesn't include the F-6? Stu



Edit - Here's the 1951 ad I was looking for. It lists all the models. Stu

 

Heck if I know Stu, I did notice the ad for the monkey face omits the F6 but the ad for the 51 shows F6. Its my guess that the stub shafts and everything outboard are the same on my F4 and Chucks Big Job. With the exception of the dome that has the studs in it. It would also seem that any F1,2 or 3 would have to have a smaller hub just due to a smaller tire being run on the truck. I will wait for Chuck to set me straight! Enough assuming for now.

 

The good news is we found the odd noise when the wheel turns. Its the power yoke flopping around because the pins/holes are worn out. Plus I dont think all this gear lube is suppose to be in the hub. I believe the inner seal needs replaced along with a new "seal riding surface" on the axle shaft. We couldn't get the power yoke pins out but we didnt try really hard. Figured we would stop before it got worse!

 

Mark - did you ever get a service manual for the axle from Chuck or Craig? Sure would make life easier. Or does that later Marmon-Coleman manual you bought explain things? Stu

 

I haven't got the manual from Chuck yet. I'm sure he is busy with bigger things than making me a copy. The Marmon/Coleman manual is pretty close. The general design is the same. We need to get the two pins out and remove the power yoke. Then remove those eight bolts on that plate to get to the rest. Disassemble with out a manual doesn't bother nearly as much as how we are going to repair that slop. I imagine if we throw enough money at it all things are fixable.

 

Well, it only took three nights to remove two plugs and two pins. One plug came out easy and the other was a pita. The second one broke and stripped. Then I drilled it, then I tried a bolt extractor. That didn't work. Then I used a roto tool to finish it off. That hole will have to be addressed at a later date.



The next step is to remove the pins holding the power yoke to the compensating ring. There is ALOT of play in there. I am NOT looking forward to what I will find.

 

So far, nothing made of unobtainium seems beyond saving. Hopefully bearings and seals are all that'll be needed. And keep your magic dust handy when you pull the drums. Stu

 

Well, it's only been a little over two years since the last post on this thread. It's taken me that long to source a couple wheel bearings. The spindle bearings are sourced and the axle seals ordered. Got my parts washer up and running so now everything can be cleaned and ready for assembly. As soon as I get a new photobucket account I will post some pictures. Better late than never.

 

 

Major score Mark, nice going!!!! Once again persistence pays off in a big way. Good luck going forward.

 

Mark,

What a fun and interesting project!

My truck did not fit in my garage due to the same reason. I ended up opening up my door from 7' tall to 8'. In looking at your pictures I wonder if you have room to do that. More overall cost though.

Stu you were not kidding about the price of the bearings. They are $5,736.63 apiece on Amazon and Prime at that! Procuring parts can be a challenge for a number of different reasons.

I'll be checking in on occasion with interest to see your progress.

Nelson

 

$!.08 here. Lol.

price dimensions Tapered Roller 73562 - 73875 Bearings_TS Timken -Tancbearing