Hi there I own a 72 f250 highboy with a 4 speed and I was thinking about putting new transmission fluid. I don't think it has been changed in a while. I dont have a shop manual so what type of fluid should I use and how much?

 

Welcome '2', I use 80W90 in my '68 F250 4X4ever). I have the NP 435 trans, and that is what it takes. Drain the existing fluid, let it drip awhile, run a magnet through the fluid to check for shavings, replace the plug, and fill it until fluid runs out the upper, (level) plug. Let it stand a bit, and check again. You might also run it around a bit after filling, and re check once more. Oh, use any GOOD QUALITY, gear oil, and check for leaks while you are under there.


Baha

 

The manual calls for 50wt. but not easy to find or very cheap as it's all seems to be listed as racing oil in today world.

The same oil goes for your transfer case.

But if you live in a warmer climate go with what Baja says. It's the next best thing.

And while were talking gear oils same for the front & rear axle diff. oil.

If you still running drum brakes up front and the King pin oil you may want to run 140wt. so it don't leak out so fast. There's a 1/2'' filler pipe plug centered on each side of the close knuckle axle u-joint housing back side
. Plus since you have not bough a manual you must engage the front hubs every 6000 or 6 months and drive for a few miles so that the axle u-joints & upper axle king pins get lubricated.

If not you'll then be placing the king pin blocks & bearing one day when you start getting a vibration/sloppy steering. These parts are getting very hard to find. This is another reason guys switch over to the later front disc brake axles.
As there is replacement parts made where as none being made for the drum axles other then bearings/drums shoes everyday stuff can be had.
But no new axles inner front being made as the inner sealing area gets to leaking gear oil pass them that will end up where it should not be.

And if you still running the manual steering box then it can be refilled with 90wt. gear oil. To drain it remove one lower side plate bolt.

Hope this helps but time to buy a manual. Even the glove box manual has a lot of great important info.

Orich

 

.. and while yer at it, hit all the zerk (grease) fittings to refresh the lube.

 

Aw yes speaking of zerks, don't forget the one in the upper mid-steering shaft u-joint zerk.
Orich

 

.. or if with power brakes, the zerk on the brake booster bellcrank cross shaft. That bugger is hard to see let alone connect the gun hose.

 

. OK I do have a Dana 44 hd drum brake so I checked the fluid on the kingpin and I was not able to get any fluid on my finger. I filled it with 140 wt and it started leaking .

 

The outer ball wiper seals are gone and most likely many other internal things need servicing.
You can also check the king pins by jacking up the wheel till off the ground, then grab the wheel at 12 & 6 o:clock and try tilling it back & fourth or up & down for any movement. If a lot of play and not corrected the whole wheel & ball end can come off if you hit a dip or a bump in the road.

When these front axles have been left un-serviced for a long time then these drum 44 are like a can of worms. The more you pull it a part the more money you'll throw into it and searching for parts.

Then it's time to look for a 44 disc brake ft. axle.
The 1976 ,77.5 are low pinion & 78,79 are high pinion
will both bolt in & the drag links 16.3/16" same as power assist rod linkage & the manual linkage all the same. The Brake lines fitting will need changing plus you'll need to add a proportioning valve.

I had to rebuild the disc brake axle as when they sit for yrs unused moisture does in the internal parts.
So it's best if you can find one where a guy is may be upgrading to a D60

I had to switch even my ring & pinion cause it was the wrong gearing.

You'll be lucky to find a good working disc brake axle for a $1000.
But lady luck may be looking you in the face you never know.

Orich

 

Talking about the wheel moving I remember moving the wheel from 3&9 and there was slop. I posted a thread about steering wheel play and you told me what to do but it didn't seem to solve the problem. Could that be the cause for steering wheel play?
I would really like to fix it. I also thought about getting a D60 but I haven't had luck

 

Are you ball hubs 12 bolt? Orich is right, parts are difficult, but not impossible to find. I believe its Montana 4x4 that has all the parts for the ball/knuckle front ends. I have not had any success finding a disc brake Dana 60, but have only done superficial searches, since rebuilding mine. I was lucky though, as it was not too far gone to rebuild, but it did bend my wallet a bit. With new ball seals, mine doesn't leak..... yet..


Baja

 

With 3& 9 o:clock movement, I'd say tie rod ends or the drag link linkage.
Or the wheel bearing adjustment is in need of service, clean all an inspect repack inner & outer bearing with a new hub seal IF your Lucky that is.
Most of the time the axle spindle are so chewed up that they even need replacing, and at a few hundred bucks each for new ones it don't take long to have a grand in parts..

Which, I needed to replace all on mine old closed knuckle oem axle.
Plus I rebuilt the backing places as the brake shoes resting pads were warn way down. That caused and bad miss alignment of the shoe.

About $800 put into this old drum 3000lb unit.

So when a disc brake 44HD unit showed up at the junk yard it got it and found it must have sat for a good number of yrs and everything even axles, spindles, ring & pinion replaced bearings & the inner two axle seals needed replacing with new stuff.

The good news was, I could use the rotors after having them turned plus had to rebuild the calipers= about $1400 total as, I had to have a shop R&R the whole axles units for me as my son had my cherry picker.

I rebuilt that unit while it was in the bed of my truck.
The disc brake HD44 3500lbs axle unit was way heavier then the drum axle.
Orich

 

The heavier grease (80W+) should be used only if you're heavy loading the drivetrain. Heavier lubes tends to build heat more than the 50W but retains lubricity to a slightly better degree under high heat conditions, compared to 50W.

Be sure to specify non-detergent. Some bronze components don't do well with modern additives.

 

Oh, its Quad 4x4 in Montana, now with a new name. Torque King. but you can still find it on Google..


Baja

 

The wiper seal kit for the 44HD 3500" axle was Ford part number D4TZ3132B.

Nos Parts Source *Fo has one.


913.220.5746


xKlimesh Motor Sales has two.

563-562-3241



AND
<table class="static info_table"><tbody><tr><td class="label">Part Number:</td><td>D4TZ-3132-B</td><td>
</td><td class="label">Seller:</td><td>Miller Obsolete Parts - View Profile</td></tr><tr class="even"><td class="label">Description:</td><td>STEERING ARM SEAL KIT</td><td>
</td><td class="label">Phone:</td><td id="phone_primary174049">(607) 722-5371
Tell them you found it on RearCounter.com</td></tr><tr><td class="label">Price:</td><td>Request Pricing</td><td>
</td><td class="label">Email:</td><td>Send Seller Email Inquiry</td></tr><tr class="even"><td class="label">Quantity:</td><td>1</td><td>
</td><td class="label">Location:</td><td>Binghamton, New York Map & Directions</td></tr></tbody></table>