2000 Ranger 3.0L Flex Fuel Spark Plug Change??
#1
04-08-2016, 08:36 AM
2000 Ranger 3.0L Flex Fuel Spark Plug Change??
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0L Flex Fuel XLT 4x4 M5OD trans. It's got 250,000 on it and I need to change the spark plugs, but I've been reading and I have no clue what the correct spark plug number for the truck is and I don't want to buy the wrong plugs and have the pinging problem. So is there one spark plug number for both sides or do I have to buy two separate sets of plugs? Because I know I've read already that one side has a different P/N# than the other side because of how it fires. So what do I get?
Also I'm having a high idle problem, only does it after you take off and come to a complete stop again, it will idle at about 1500 rpm and then when you turn the steering wheel to put pressure on the belt drive system it will drop and then stay down till you touch the gas or take off and come a complete stop again. So any suggestions would greatly be appreciated
Also I'm having a high idle problem, only does it after you take off and come to a complete stop again, it will idle at about 1500 rpm and then when you turn the steering wheel to put pressure on the belt drive system it will drop and then stay down till you touch the gas or take off and come a complete stop again. So any suggestions would greatly be appreciated
#2
04-08-2016, 11:59 AM
The specifications and capacities section of your owners manual will tell you which plugs to use. Or check the sticker under the hood.
IIRC it's only the 8 spark plug 4 bangers that got the 2 different plug numbers, your V6 will all be the same.
If you go to bbbind.com you can check for TSB's on the high idle problem. Not sure, but i think Ford issued one for the high idle problem.
IIRC it's only the 8 spark plug 4 bangers that got the 2 different plug numbers, your V6 will all be the same.
If you go to bbbind.com you can check for TSB's on the high idle problem. Not sure, but i think Ford issued one for the high idle problem.
#4
04-09-2016, 08:16 AM
Welcome to FTE.
If this puppy still has the factory delivered spark plugs in it, your right, with 250K miles on them they need to be changed as they've lived 2.5 lifetimes & spark gap is likely Way out of spec wide & that'll put a really stressful work load on the coil pack & plug wires, so plan on replacing the plug wires too.
Motorcraft fine wire plugs & wires are recommended, as they're designed to take the Double work load our waste spark ignition system puts on them.
Go to the Motorcraft web site, enter your vehicle VIN # & it'll put up the latest design fine wire spark plug part number & spark plug wire set #.
Yes the factory delivered our waste spark ignition system Rangers with two different spark plug designs in each cyl bank, to save a few cents on the passenger side plug only having one platinum pad on its side wire ground lug, but Now there is only One design & part number for the replacement plugs, so it won't matter which cyl bank they're used in. Just be careful checking, or adjusting spark gap. Use a Wire gauge & ease up on checking, or adjusting gap, so as not to pull the gauge through too tight a gap & damage the fine wire center electrode, or platinum pad on the side wire.
Seeing as how you have the flex fuel 3.0L, it also has a different heat range spark plug specified & it also has different fuel injectors, in case you use something other than E-10 fuel, so to be able to keep fuel trim in balance, as E15, E20, or E85 have a different O2 content, so the plugs & injectors & fuel sensor need to be able to react/adjust to the different fuel O2 content, so the proper heat range spark plug needs to be used for that & a double platinum, or like design spark plug needs to be used in our "waste spark" ignition system, so we don't suffer excessive spark gap erosion from the reverse polarity spark in cyl bank-1.
There is a good read on the waste spark ignition in this forums "Tech Info" thread, located atop the thread index page. Seeing as how you seem to like turning your own wrenches, lots of other helpful info there also, including a special Tech Info section just for the 3.0L.
On the idle problem, sounds like the IAC = Idle Air Control, belongs on the suspect list, as its responsible for keeping idle speed under control with varying engine loads & is a common problem part in idle woes. To do a quick IAC operation test, try disconnecting it's electrical connector at warm idle, the engine rpm should drop, the engine may run rough, or stall if the IAC is working properly. If no change in idle speed, suspect the IAC has a problem.
EDIT: Cleaning the IAC may not last, it didn't for me but weas a good trouble shooting step. If you come to decide the IAC needs to be replaced, Motorcraft or BWD=Borg Warner Division IAC are recommended replacements (I used BWD about 10 years ago & all is well so far), others have proven problematic.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
If this puppy still has the factory delivered spark plugs in it, your right, with 250K miles on them they need to be changed as they've lived 2.5 lifetimes & spark gap is likely Way out of spec wide & that'll put a really stressful work load on the coil pack & plug wires, so plan on replacing the plug wires too.
Motorcraft fine wire plugs & wires are recommended, as they're designed to take the Double work load our waste spark ignition system puts on them.
Go to the Motorcraft web site, enter your vehicle VIN # & it'll put up the latest design fine wire spark plug part number & spark plug wire set #.
Yes the factory delivered our waste spark ignition system Rangers with two different spark plug designs in each cyl bank, to save a few cents on the passenger side plug only having one platinum pad on its side wire ground lug, but Now there is only One design & part number for the replacement plugs, so it won't matter which cyl bank they're used in. Just be careful checking, or adjusting spark gap. Use a Wire gauge & ease up on checking, or adjusting gap, so as not to pull the gauge through too tight a gap & damage the fine wire center electrode, or platinum pad on the side wire.
Seeing as how you have the flex fuel 3.0L, it also has a different heat range spark plug specified & it also has different fuel injectors, in case you use something other than E-10 fuel, so to be able to keep fuel trim in balance, as E15, E20, or E85 have a different O2 content, so the plugs & injectors & fuel sensor need to be able to react/adjust to the different fuel O2 content, so the proper heat range spark plug needs to be used for that & a double platinum, or like design spark plug needs to be used in our "waste spark" ignition system, so we don't suffer excessive spark gap erosion from the reverse polarity spark in cyl bank-1.
There is a good read on the waste spark ignition in this forums "Tech Info" thread, located atop the thread index page. Seeing as how you seem to like turning your own wrenches, lots of other helpful info there also, including a special Tech Info section just for the 3.0L.
On the idle problem, sounds like the IAC = Idle Air Control, belongs on the suspect list, as its responsible for keeping idle speed under control with varying engine loads & is a common problem part in idle woes. To do a quick IAC operation test, try disconnecting it's electrical connector at warm idle, the engine rpm should drop, the engine may run rough, or stall if the IAC is working properly. If no change in idle speed, suspect the IAC has a problem.
EDIT: Cleaning the IAC may not last, it didn't for me but weas a good trouble shooting step. If you come to decide the IAC needs to be replaced, Motorcraft or BWD=Borg Warner Division IAC are recommended replacements (I used BWD about 10 years ago & all is well so far), others have proven problematic.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
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