my 84 350 needs new pos. & neg. cables. where can i find them without custom making and paying an arm and a leg. will they be complete ??

 

You'd be hard pressed to hit all your requirements. The cables for these engines are far thicker than you will find on the shelf at any automotive parts house, but you may find workable ones at a truck shop. I used top to side post adapters, and 4/0 welding cables with copper lugs soldered on for mine with good results. Expensive but worth it, and still cheaper than manufactured cables.

 

yea welding cables rock !

also lead melts real easy so you could probably solder or make ends if you had determination ..

from the pasts vendor thread ..

"'87F-2504X4' said "
If you need replacement battery cables, these folks make a quality product. Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV
I went with the 3/0 cable and it spins the motor better than when it was new.\

Custom Battery Cables F350 cables

maybe try these folks
__________________

 

The postive is only $83, the negatives i got were like $30 to $40 each

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111932833267?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

That compatibility list only goes back to 1993. I don't know why. Same at Parts Geek.

However: Amazon.com has that same cable/same part number and states that this is not the right cable for a 1984 F350. "Does not fit your 1984 F350"


I could not find the cable lengths for that specific cable to compare with others cables that do fit.

At O'Reilly Parts there are 2 different lengths listed for the short 6 ga portion of the cable that goes to the relay. One is 12 inches and one is 22 inches:

I used XLT models for comparisons as Mark has not stated what model he has or the body style (standard cab, extended cab, crew cab) although it may not matter but for the 1984 F350 XL it's 22 inches. For the 1994 (I tried all 3 VIN codes) it is listed at 12 inches and for my 87 it is 22" for the BWD brand or 12 inches for the other brand but I don't see how 12 inches would work- that would be a very tight stretch to the relay post unless the relay is mounted on the horizontal surface of the fender well and much closer to the battery!

I think the parts sellers must be confused or whoever makes these compatibility lists because they seem contradictory. You can go to the links below and see the lengths and then click on the compatibility tab.

84 F350:
BWD BC116HP - Battery Cable | O'Reilly Auto Parts

94 F350:
Super Start 04357 - Battery Cable | O'Reilly Auto Parts


For my 87 they list both cables and I bought one 11 months ago for $85.00 so it's probably the same one shown here for the 94 F350 and the auxiliary cable on my new one is in fact 22 inches, not 12 inches.

However, that same part is not listed at O'Reilly's in Mississippi.

You COULD have them locate a store that has the $85. one and call that store to have them look at the length of the 6 ga auxiliary cable (goes from positive battery to relay on passenger side) and confirm if it is 22 inches and then just order that one.

For some reason I think that 12 inch length is a MISPRINT, they typed in 1-2 instead of 2-2. Just like at one place they typed in 16 inches instead of 116 inches.

The cable I got is very high quality - I'll find the receipt later to confirm whether it is the BWD which is now $105. or the one listed for $86.99. In any case I could not make one this good even after chasing down the right fittings etc. There is ALSO one made with the thin metal battery connectors that is less expensive but I prefer the molded lead connectors unless it's for a very small battery - like for a Honda...

For negative cables, Check Rock Auto Parts for cables that match yours or you may have to measure those and just find some the right length. BTW, the 'Standard' Brand positive cable they list at Rock Auto Parts without an image for $66.00 is probably the one with thin metal battery clamps rather than molded lead. I checked into that part number earlier today. However, someone bought that part number at Amazon and in the review he said it was exactly like the original on his F Series diesel but the images at Amazon for that one show both the molded lead one and the one with the thin metal clamps so you'd be taking a chance on which one you actually get. $73.00 for that one and the part number is:

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A11600HP

 

- First photo is correct; full-size "block" clamps and NOT the thin spring steel. They are NOT lead, however; for obvious reasons, battery clamps have been lead-free for a long time.

 

Hi Mark,

I was looking at my negative cable yesterday. The connector at the battery terminal is broken on one of them and held on with a small C-Clamp. To make it easy I've decided to just cut that bad connector off - back at the insulation, strip back some insulation, clean the wire and solder on a new heavy COPPER connector and then heat shrink tubing. Very simple to do. I have enough extra cable to do that on the driver's side. I just pulled up some slack, moving the cable forward between the air intake duct and fender well. I haven't looked closely at the passenger side yet


It's also simple to make new ground cables the same way (soldered connectors and terminals with an added crimp at the ring terminals). Just be sure to use Rosin flux made for soldering electrical connections and NOT paste flux for soldering copper pipe, tubing and copper plumbing fittings. That is an acid flux and will result in eventual corrosion of the wires.

This is the simplest way. You can buy this battery terminal from Dell City (url below) with the correct amount of solder and flux already inside the terminal . They are called Fusion Battery Terminals. Or you can buy terminals and the solder/flux slugs separately. In this video demonstration he is using a solder/flux slug.

Here is the 'Fusion Battery Terminals' page from Dell City:
Fusion Battery Terminals (Solder and flux already inside):
Fusion Battery Terminals

Terminal Solder Slugs that you can use with battery terminals you can buy locally at hardware stores:
Terminal Solder Slugs

When you buy any battery cable terminal make sure you select one specifically for the positive or negative battery post because the (+) post and (-) post on a battery are different sizes.

 

I was not able to edit that post. EDIT: You can use those solder slugs for almost any terminal connector (ring connectors, etc.)

I like the idea because because it's so simple and no mess.

As for making the Positive cable you need a special barrel connector that is made for three cables, two cables at the passenger side of the termial, the 2/0 to the starter and the 6 ga. to the relay. I haven't found one yet. (Later I'll put up a photo of this connector on a new cable). Otherwise you can use a standard 2/0 barrel connector and attach a 6 ga cable to the relay with a ring terminal at the battery post end attached under the clamp down nut on the barrel connector.

FUSION barrel connector:
Flag Barrel Fusion Battery Terminals - Positive

 

Maybe in most new battery cables and OEM from the auto mfrs but lead terminals are available nearly everywhere. My new cable has ends that feel as heavy as lead and look like lead - maybe they are not. Actually lead terminals are alloyed with about 5% antimony for hardness.

There is no law that I am aware of (yet) that says aftermarket cable manufacturers cannot use lead/lead alloy - just proposition 65 in California where this would apply. It would seem that if this was the case nationwide that lead cable ends would also be banned but they are available everywhere.

Whatever the case, COPPER battery terminals have superior conductivity so they would be better anyway. I think the copper connectors are plated with something to prevent oxidation so they don't look like copper.

Brass is used in marine applications where salt spray is a consideration. I have a 96 Honda Civic that has a brass positive terminal and it's about as cheaply made as the rest of the car. Good engine and drive train though (I like the 4 speed automatic too!) but that's as far as it goes on mine.

 

Or clean the cable real well .. strip it back .. build a small rectangular wooden box with holes drilled to feed the cable .. melt a few wheel weights in a cast iron or stainless skillet .. pour molten lead in to the wood box mold .. drill a new hole for battery post .. and a slit with a hole for the tightening screw .. lead is very easy to work with

southern-old-bold said >>

"If you cast or mould molten lead please make sure there is no moisture, or water, damp timber or any damp around your pour. The lead will literally explode in droplets if it is poured into a damp timber or wooden mould. This should be taken very seriously."

>>

yes .. i should have expounded in greater detail .. you should absolutely take safety precautions if you choose to melt lead .. glasses .. gloves .. full covering clothing .. and if using a wood mold only use hardwood .. not softwood or pine .. better yet .. use sheet metal welded together into whatever shape or steel cooking pans ..

the steel wheel weight clips should be picked up when with a magnet from the floating lead and the slag scooped off with a spoon .. do not use any pan or spoon or container for eating ever again ..

make sure there is no water anywhere near you .. or moisture in the wood .. if you use wood use old oak and put it in the oven a little while and then blacken it with a propane torch to make absolutely sure there is no more water ..

here is a good write up FredT >

http://www.scubaboard.com/community/...learned.44202/

thank you southern-old-bold !!

it was absolutely retarded for me to comment on this in such an over-simplistic manner .. someone could have got seriously hurt >> buy premade cables .. but if you do try this please be careful .. and thoroughly research just how you want to do it ,, before trying it yourself !

 

M35A2 Military Positive Negative Battery Terminal Set M54 M813 M35A2 M818 M109 | eBay


I am running these with good results. 4/0 welding cable for the cables solid copper lugs, I used our hydraulic crimping tool to crimp the lugs but solider pellets will work well too

 

If you cast or mould molten lead please make sure there is no moisture, or water, damp timber or any damp around your pour. The lead will literally explode in droplets if it is poured into a damp timber or wooden mould. This should be taken very seriously.

 

just posting a new comment to return this thread to the top of the board so anyone who read it previously would take note of southerns' comment about the danger of water droplets .. moisture in a mold .. or free water .. rain .. when casting lead .. and to draw attention to the edit of my comment above .. if you have a mind to try .. just don't want anyone to get injured .. also do it outside on a camp stove not in the kitchen .. don't breath it in .. if you melt and cast lead do so the proper way and do it carefully !!

 

Differences between 86 and 87 cables? Mine are so-so and I want to put some nice cables on my wish list. I like what I see at custom battery cables, but they list 87+. Not sure that will work for me.

 

I will again say that this guy makes awesome cables.
Custom Battery Cables F350 cables
I am very happy with the positive cable that i got from him. I went with the 3/0 and military clamps.