SKY-CREEPER. A low cost, low space alternative to a TopSide Creeper
#1
SKY-CREEPER. A low cost, low space alternative to a TopSide Creeper
About 15 years ago, long before "Top Side Creepers" existed, I needed to remove and replace some loose bolts on the factory turbo.
Rather than build (and have to forever store) an entire separate apparatus to suspend myself above the engine compartment so as not to crack either the degas bottle or my ribs, I thought... why not make use of the lift and support in mid air equipment I already have?
Hence, the SkyCreeper was born in 2000... and kept a secret ever since, until now... since I found an old print (from film) that I could re-snap digitally and post, being inspired by the recent discussion on one of Tugly's multiple concurrent threads on his engine rebuild.
It is simply another (much longer) box tube inserted inside the innermost tube of the engine hoist I already had. I staggered the existing tubes to provide the most evenly graduated support to the extra extension tube. I also carefully sized the width and height of the extra extension tube to be as close of a fit as possible to the internal dimensions of the existing extension tube. My extra extension tube is also thicker, and is long enough to bridge all the way back to the beginning of the main lifting tube.
Since every engine hoist is different, and since even the same brand can be different, depending on year of manufacturer... the specifics of my engine hoist dimensions and extra extension tube are immaterial to anyone considering converting their engine hoist to pull double duty and earn it's keep in the shop. The best course of action is just use common sense. Naturally, holes were drilled and additional bolt pins were supplemented to secure the telescoping stack of tubes within tubes.
For the upper pad, I recycled my retired Lisle Jeepers Creepers, as I had already upgraded to a larger wheeled, lower slung ground creeper. I used Simpson Strong Tie foundation L Plates on either side of the tube and at both ends of the pad, and through bolted them in place.
It was kind of cool to be able to set the EXACT height and location where one wishes to "float" above the engine bay. One should account for weighted settling that could occur before climbing aboard. I've also used plate weights for cantilevered ballast at the post end of the hoist. You might be able to see the aircraft cable and carabiner dangling below behind the post straps. That was used to attach the counterweight.
Way back then (before the Top Side Creeper was invented), I briefly entertained the fanciful notion that there might be a market for something like this... but realistically, the cost of the steel, the cost of shipment (size and weight), and the potential exposure to liability pretty much torpedoed the timid in me that is risk averse.
And on that note... an engine hoist is designed to lift a 2,000 lb. engine, not a 200 lb man. Anything "dumb" like this that you do, you do at your own risk.
Rather than build (and have to forever store) an entire separate apparatus to suspend myself above the engine compartment so as not to crack either the degas bottle or my ribs, I thought... why not make use of the lift and support in mid air equipment I already have?
Hence, the SkyCreeper was born in 2000... and kept a secret ever since, until now... since I found an old print (from film) that I could re-snap digitally and post, being inspired by the recent discussion on one of Tugly's multiple concurrent threads on his engine rebuild.
It is simply another (much longer) box tube inserted inside the innermost tube of the engine hoist I already had. I staggered the existing tubes to provide the most evenly graduated support to the extra extension tube. I also carefully sized the width and height of the extra extension tube to be as close of a fit as possible to the internal dimensions of the existing extension tube. My extra extension tube is also thicker, and is long enough to bridge all the way back to the beginning of the main lifting tube.
Since every engine hoist is different, and since even the same brand can be different, depending on year of manufacturer... the specifics of my engine hoist dimensions and extra extension tube are immaterial to anyone considering converting their engine hoist to pull double duty and earn it's keep in the shop. The best course of action is just use common sense. Naturally, holes were drilled and additional bolt pins were supplemented to secure the telescoping stack of tubes within tubes.
For the upper pad, I recycled my retired Lisle Jeepers Creepers, as I had already upgraded to a larger wheeled, lower slung ground creeper. I used Simpson Strong Tie foundation L Plates on either side of the tube and at both ends of the pad, and through bolted them in place.
It was kind of cool to be able to set the EXACT height and location where one wishes to "float" above the engine bay. One should account for weighted settling that could occur before climbing aboard. I've also used plate weights for cantilevered ballast at the post end of the hoist. You might be able to see the aircraft cable and carabiner dangling below behind the post straps. That was used to attach the counterweight.
Way back then (before the Top Side Creeper was invented), I briefly entertained the fanciful notion that there might be a market for something like this... but realistically, the cost of the steel, the cost of shipment (size and weight), and the potential exposure to liability pretty much torpedoed the timid in me that is risk averse.
And on that note... an engine hoist is designed to lift a 2,000 lb. engine, not a 200 lb man. Anything "dumb" like this that you do, you do at your own risk.
#2
#4
Welllll..... I'ma gunna adapt my crappy creeper with the busted wheels. Fantastic stuff! Great idea!
Hmmm... I wonder if I can rig a sling. Naaww. Turning a wrench would make me spin until I vomit... or kick something expensive. With my luck, I'd knock the hood down on my ***. "Yah shoodah seen it. Stinky ate Tugly."
Hmmm... I wonder if I can rig a sling. Naaww. Turning a wrench would make me spin until I vomit... or kick something expensive. With my luck, I'd knock the hood down on my ***. "Yah shoodah seen it. Stinky ate Tugly."
#5
Good idea, trying to figger out where your legs go though?? Visions of a minor slip on that one bar balance beam and well, you know, that would hurt!
One thing I like to do when doing turbo work etc is release the hood shocks and bungee the hood straight up to an eye bolt screwed into the garage ceiling, like a Mercedes hood opens up.
One thing I like to do when doing turbo work etc is release the hood shocks and bungee the hood straight up to an eye bolt screwed into the garage ceiling, like a Mercedes hood opens up.
#7
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#10
I was actually thinking that to get my fat azz aboard, I was going to have to build a harness-type rig from the rafters with a winch to crane myself up and then a lever system to manipulate my legs into position; then somehow (without spilling my beer) shift around my body to land lithely on the pad.
After about 3 tries (and 4 beers), I haul the whole contraption to the dump. Then schedule a chiropractor appointment.
After about 3 tries (and 4 beers), I haul the whole contraption to the dump. Then schedule a chiropractor appointment.
#11
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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Come to think of it, I don't really want to see that!
#12
#13
#14
Welllll..... I'ma gunna adapt my crappy creeper with the busted wheels. Fantastic stuff! Great idea!
Hmmm... I wonder if I can rig a sling. Naaww. Turning a wrench would make me spin until I vomit... or kick something expensive. With my luck, I'd knock the hood down on my ***. "Yah shoodah seen it. Stinky ate Tugly."
Hmmm... I wonder if I can rig a sling. Naaww. Turning a wrench would make me spin until I vomit... or kick something expensive. With my luck, I'd knock the hood down on my ***. "Yah shoodah seen it. Stinky ate Tugly."
#15