My truck started throwing codes a couple of months ago and I have been repairing the usual things that I now see is very common:
replaced plugs
replaced cam position sensors
cleaned throttle body
It's now at the dealer who I paid $121 to diagnose and they just called saying "internal issues, probably timing chain etc." and want another $940 to further diagnose. Problems started at 85k miles and it now has 90k trucks value maybe $11k

Should I fix it or trade it?
Are there any recalls that can cover some of the repair cost?
Do newer trucks have the problem fixed?

I was not in the market for a new truck yet; not sure what to do next -opinions welcomed.

 

Are you still throwing a code? Does it run fine and just have the annoying tick? Do you have the cold start rattle?

 

Still throwing codes; it has a new one after each fix (free Oreilly code check so...). Codes started as COP bad but I switched two COPS and the code went away and has not come back in over 1000 miles, then some slow idle code that went away when I cleaned the throttle body, next was cam pos sensor 0, finally cam pos sensor 1. When I got the chk engine for the 5th time in 3 months I took it to the dealer.
It runs rough intermittently and makes a valve clanging noise and shakes like timing is off but smooths out. After driving a long distance with it running good, when I pull into the driveway it starts jumping and clanging. At 90k miles it seems like a sold engine power, compression wise when the issue is not happening.

 

The crux of the matter is the value of the truck. Depending on the "internal issues", you could easily spend a couple thousand on this truck and it will still only be worth $11k.
I was in the same position not too long ago, and opted to trade it in. The dealer paid off the balance with some left over, and I got into a newer, much nicer truck with lower miles and a much more reliable engine.
I'd seriously consider trading it in at this point.

 

They just called and offered $1,000 for it; I spent that for a new set of tires on it last week Five Star Ford may be a misnomer.

At this point I'm leaning towards taking it to an independent mechanic and having the timing components replaced and locking out the CVT. I'm guessing I can have this done for $1,500 and not have to worry about CVT again.

Can anyone add to my parts list; what specifically do I need from Livernois?
• 2 Timing Chain (122 links)
• 1 Double Row Crank Sprocket (21 teeth)
• 1 Left Tensioner
• 1 Right Tensioner
• 1 Left Tensioner Arm
• 1 Right Tensioner Arm
• 1 Left Guide Rail
• 1 Right Guide Rail
• 2 Cam Sprockets / Cam Phaser (left and right)

 

^^^

So they offered you $1000 for the truck, did I read that right?

They'll spend a "G" fixing it and put it on their used lot for 15K. Not mad at the dealer for trying to turn a buck but damn.

Have you considered comparing the cost of the repair to a re manufactured engine? The difference may be close enough and if the truck is in great shape then it could be a better investment.

 

I personally would avoid the lockout. The rebuild every 150K miles to me doesn't outweigh the lack of power the livernois system creates. I hear it shows even more if you tow alot. You're essentially locking an engine that was designed to be variable into one mode for life.

Your issue could be sludge, sounds like you might have bought the truck used? If it is a timing issue, it's unlikely to have any internal damage to worry about, and the engine should be healthy enough to have a good life.

Check and replace everything wearable once you have the valve covers off: The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

Get a good quality 5.4L timing chain kit (you don't mention your year, so I can't link anything given I don't know if you're a 2V engine or 3V engine). I would get the genuine Motocraft ones, and make sure that you're getting the latest revision (solid roll pins in the phasers and a better designed VCT). Don't forget new valve cover gaskets. And then give it hell .

 

If you decide to go the Livernois route you will not need new phasers. As for your list, you will want a new oil pump, Melling high pressure, high volume and steel tensioners not the plastic ones. Review F150Torqued posts or email him for his parts list. He just got finished doing a time job on his and is very happy.

 

I think rather than to offer $1,000 it would have been better to say we don't want an 11 year old truck. I am going with the idea to replace tensioners sprocket CVT and hiring an independent mechanic to do the work. I decided not to do the lockout.I ordered most of the parts on amazon for 440 dollars.

 

Change the oil pump too and get the steel tensioners. Mine had 63000 on it and blew a tensioner seal and I ended up doing a complete job like you are going to do. The plastic tensioners have just a small silicone bead on them to seal the oil pressure in to make them work. The steel tensioners have a machned face that match up to the machined face on the block and don't leak. The oil pump is behind the crankshaft gear so you are better off replacing it now. Also you may want to consider doing the belt tensioner and idler pulleys as long as it's open that far.

 

@Ken Dunbar , $440 for "most" of the parts on amazon doesn't sound like you are getting genuine FORD Phasers. I paid that much for two genuine Ford Phasers from the Fairway Ford online Ebay Store. There are design differences that are significant and there are numerous complaints on these Forums about after market ("Dorman") phasers.


ALSO, you mentioned a "tick". Are you _sure_ the source of the noise is Phasers / Chains / Guides? I absolutely believe my "tick" was coming from lash adjusters and/or the roller on one cam follower. I had one with a roller that you could wiggle pretty good with your finger, but it was NOT seized. But several (about 4) lash adjusters on the rear of bank 1 that I believe were leaking down when hot.


If you think it is Phaser knock or diesel sound at idle, this thread provides a very good read:
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


@Flyguy108 is right - if you go to the trouble to do the job, get the Oil Pan off and clean the broken pieces of chain guides out of the pick-up screen and put a high volume Oil pump on. The stupid plastic chain guides have a real bad habit of turning to little pieces. Take a look at what mine looked like! The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 262 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


Even if the tick is coming from lash adjusters, I believe it will help to go with a Melling HV oil pump. As @FlyGuy108 mentioned, I'm very happy with my outcome and now over a 1000 miles in. It's unbelievably quiet, responsive and delivering much improved gas mileage. Of course, I replaced EVERYTHING that moves, rolls, giggles, pumps or ticks. Even all 8 injectors!


And, I used the cast iron (ratchet type) tensioners and metal tensioner arms from MMR as you can see here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16069632 The cast iron tensioners are super 'sturdy' and seat directly to the block as you can see in the lower left of the first photo in the above linked post, or in these comparison photos: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16034116


You did not mention miles, or specific codes, but your engine likely has many good miles left in it. Just use good parts and make sure your mechanic does a super clean, meticulous repair job on it.


Good Luck

 

It is a 2005 Edison Bauer with 93k, wife drives it maybe 9k/yr.
I did get genuine ford cvt's, but found an "Evergreen" kit that came with phasers, tensioners, guides, chains, etc. I don't know anything about Evergreen was just going on user ratings and price

 

Which oil pump # do you recommend? I see ford racing high volume that will fit, but don't want to create new issues.
The tick was slight compared to what others are seeing, the real issue was engine sporadically jumping dieing when coming to a stop at idle. Loud chain probably from broken guide

 

I no "Expert" - just a current little "drip". Don't know about Ford Racing high volume. I do think that "high volume" is the important thing. There is lots of confusion out there about that issue. I even had a manufacturer's rep tell me his pump was "high pressure", not "high volume" and HIS would increase my oil pressure. //// Didn't buy from that idiot because OBVIOUSLY he don't know what he is talking about. ///// THERE IS NO WAY you can produce a higher pressure through existing restrictions as they exist in the engine today --- UNLESS the pump is moving greater volume of oil. That's just a fact of hydro dynamics.


After considerable research, I went with the Melling 10340 --- even though THEY promote their product as having a cast iron backing plate instead of the OEM aluminum back plate, which supposedly flexes and allows leakage around the back plate. GARBAGE GARBAGE (marketing BS) again. The oil pump bolts flat - solid against the front of the block and there is no damn way the back-plate can flex and allow oil to escape around the backing plate - I don't care if it was made of plastic.


But the Melling 10340 gave me a nice, noticeable boost in Oil Pressure as confirmed by a digital aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge.


You are likely correct - broken or compromised guide(s). Especially if you are getting P0012 or P0022 codes, or have experienced many problems with 'misfiring' which can SLAP the chains around pretty good.

 

Did you check that the battery had good power and connections