Oil fill tube loose on valve cover
#1
Oil fill tube loose on valve cover
I have the E350 6.0 diesel, but I think this can be answered in the van forum.
I noticed the oil fill tube connecting to the valve cover was detached. I tried attaching it and noticed the inlet to the valve cover is messed up. The oil fill tube has an o-ring seal and locks into the valve cover. It will no longer lock. I had an engineer friend look at it and he said that I need to replace the valve cover or make a bracket to hold down the oil fill tube.
Here is the damaged fill tube hole.
The fill tube connects to the far left hole. It's hard to see the lock and key slots from this photo that I got off eBay.
I asked about using a high temperature silicon and he advised against this as the fill tube moves around the hole even though it's sealed once it's inside the cover.
I contacted a Ford MasterTech and said that a motor mount has to be loosened and the engine lowered to replace the cover. He said it's a pain, but on the other hand, he will do it for $50 an hour. He is sending me a quote today. I would rather spend $200 to have the leak sealed than drive another 5,000 miles and risk engine oil contamination.
I was thinking of using the high temperature Permatex silicon caulk. It's pliable.
Any suggestions?
I noticed the oil fill tube connecting to the valve cover was detached. I tried attaching it and noticed the inlet to the valve cover is messed up. The oil fill tube has an o-ring seal and locks into the valve cover. It will no longer lock. I had an engineer friend look at it and he said that I need to replace the valve cover or make a bracket to hold down the oil fill tube.
Here is the damaged fill tube hole.
The fill tube connects to the far left hole. It's hard to see the lock and key slots from this photo that I got off eBay.
I asked about using a high temperature silicon and he advised against this as the fill tube moves around the hole even though it's sealed once it's inside the cover.
I contacted a Ford MasterTech and said that a motor mount has to be loosened and the engine lowered to replace the cover. He said it's a pain, but on the other hand, he will do it for $50 an hour. He is sending me a quote today. I would rather spend $200 to have the leak sealed than drive another 5,000 miles and risk engine oil contamination.
I was thinking of using the high temperature Permatex silicon caulk. It's pliable.
Any suggestions?
#2
Diesel's a whole 'nother beast I'm sure, but the gasoline valve covers can be replaced without a lot of fanfare. If you feel like you're getting the straight scoop from the mechanic then $50/hr plus an ebay part is a pretty good deal. Seems like something you ought to fix as these engines do burn oil and need oil changes from time to time.
I guess that said, if there was a way to just cork it well and deal with having to reach way into the engine to add oil, that might be a cheap way to string it along.
I guess that said, if there was a way to just cork it well and deal with having to reach way into the engine to add oil, that might be a cheap way to string it along.
#3
Diesel's a whole 'nother beast I'm sure, but the gasoline valve covers can be replaced without a lot of fanfare. If you feel like you're getting the straight scoop from the mechanic then $50/hr plus an ebay part is a pretty good deal. Seems like something you ought to fix as these engines do burn oil and need oil changes from time to time.
I guess that said, if there was a way to just cork it well and deal with having to reach way into the engine to add oil, that might be a cheap way to string it along.
I guess that said, if there was a way to just cork it well and deal with having to reach way into the engine to add oil, that might be a cheap way to string it along.
I am going to try straightening the tabs.
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CountryMonkey07
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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03-22-2015 08:02 AM