What were the 16 x 6 wheels with the nubs on the inside for the stock hub caps off of?

 

I think that's what I have on my truck now. I got them off a 48 F2.

 

Short answer, F-2/250 1948 to 1966. Long answer, it is Ford 7RD 1015B / K-H 31282 / NWRA X-40099. Somewhere around 1957 K-H changed the number to 43552 and the NWRA changed to X-45046. Same Ford number. Dodge also used it through 1968. The number substitution might be connected to the introduction of tubeless tires, and the recatagorization of it as tubeless. Stu

 

The wheels that I have are tube type. We're the 60's versions tubeless?

 

Same wheel works tube type or tubeless. The Ford number was constant over the whole range of years. As long as the valve stems seal well and there is no air leakage around the rivets you should be good. Stu

 

I ran tubes. Maybe I'll install stems after I have them powder coated.

 

The Dana 60 is installed and I haven't set up the pinion angle yet. I didn't measure it, but it looks about 20 degrees up. I was told to set it at 2 degrees down from the angle at the center bearing flange. Does this sound correct? I want to have the pinion angle set before I send my driveshaft out to be rebuilt.

 

I decided that I need to run a modern transmission, so I picked up a T98.








I'm going to remove the PTO and clean it up. I also need to rebuild the brake. Where can I get a PTO cover? Where can I get the brake linings?

 

I posted a thread on rebuilding the brake. I got the lining and rivets at McMaster-Carr.

The T9 cover fits perfect or you can make one out of plate.

Let us know what you find on the pinion angle.

 

I looked over your thread before deciding on a modern trans. I went to McMaster-Carr and looked over the linings. What thickness do I need? What rivets should I use?


I might as well use the T9 cover, since the T9 is getting scrapped.


I set my pinion angle at 2 degrees down from the flange at the trans, but since I did a couple of other mods, I went with a one piece driveshaft.

I decided on a short/wide bed. I used a z-cut with fish plates.





I also decided on satin black on the wheels with ribbed trim rings and original caps.

The bed and running boards are getting cut next. 8 inches out of the running boards. 8 inches from the front of the bed and 10 out of the back.

 

How did you join the frame with the fish plates? Did you do one side and plug weld it? Looking good.

 

I can't see a rear mount on your T98. Does it have one? If not, you have a later T98 that went to a bell housing with ears for rear mounts.

As far as the brake lining I think I went with a high strength or high heat type that was 5/16" thick. I had to machine my drum down so I probably could have gone 3/8" thick.

The rivets are brass tubular type same size as holes in band. Length to be determined by thickness of band and lining taking into account the depth you countersink the heads. Sorry I can't be more specific. I'll look to see if I can find my paper work for part numbers.

 

[QUOTE=Scotty's 52 F3;16811762]I can't see a rear mount on your T98. Does it have one? If not, you have a later T98 that went to a bell housing with ears for rear mounts.

Scotty, thanks for the info.
The T98 came out of a 56 C500 COE with a Y Block. I have the bell housing and the bellhousing does have mounting ears. Will I be able to use this transmission? Can I get the rear mount?

 

I'm no expert but, was told to get a 48-52 T98 with the rear mount so that's what I got. I think it's the same except for the mount but, I would ask Stu or maybe call VanPelt's?

I guess if it came down to it, where there's a will, there's a way.

 

Just trying to show you the mount. The T98 sits just high enough to hit my trans cover. That's why the note about the grinding.