HELP!! 2000 E150 Both Front Calipers Stuck
#1
HELP!! 2000 E150 Both Front Calipers Stuck
Help!
To make long story short. Driver side front caliper stuck. Van has 250K miles. So I replaced front calipers, rotors, brake hoses. Bled the system. Brake pedal sank to the floor afterward. Pedal had to travel about 5 inches before engaging the booster push rod.
I adjusted the rear brakes and then bled the system again. Pedal came back up but there is still about 3 inches between pedal and booster push rod.
I started the van up and took it for a test drive. All brakes felt fine for about 1 mile and then both front calipers dragged. If I did not press the gas pedal, it did not move even when it is in "Drive". I took it home and both front brakes smelled burnt. Front wheel lock bolts were hot to touch. Rear wheel nuts were cold.
Is the wheel cylinder shot, booster is shot or is it something else?
This is my work van and I appreciate any advice to get it back on the road ASAP.
Thanks.
Kin
To make long story short. Driver side front caliper stuck. Van has 250K miles. So I replaced front calipers, rotors, brake hoses. Bled the system. Brake pedal sank to the floor afterward. Pedal had to travel about 5 inches before engaging the booster push rod.
I adjusted the rear brakes and then bled the system again. Pedal came back up but there is still about 3 inches between pedal and booster push rod.
I started the van up and took it for a test drive. All brakes felt fine for about 1 mile and then both front calipers dragged. If I did not press the gas pedal, it did not move even when it is in "Drive". I took it home and both front brakes smelled burnt. Front wheel lock bolts were hot to touch. Rear wheel nuts were cold.
Is the wheel cylinder shot, booster is shot or is it something else?
This is my work van and I appreciate any advice to get it back on the road ASAP.
Thanks.
Kin
#2
How do you believe there's a gap between the pedal and booster rod?
I've read this and your other thread and it appears to be a simple issue of improperly bled lines.
1- brake pedal travel was normal before
2- you replace brake hoses and other parts
3- brake pedal travel is excessive afterward.
Rear brakes would not need adjusted if they were working properly before.
How much experience do you have bleeding brakes? Done it a few times? First or second time now? Dozens of succesful times?
How do you believe there's a gap between the pedal and booster rod?
I've read this and your other thread and it appears to be a simple issue of improperly bled lines.
1- brake pedal travel was normal before
2- you replace brake hoses and other parts
3- brake pedal travel is excessive afterward.
Rear brakes would not need adjusted if they were working properly before.
How much experience do you have bleeding brakes? Done it a few times? First or second time now? Dozens of succesful times?
How do you believe there's a gap between the pedal and booster rod?
#3
Thanks for the reply.
I have done brakes on all my vehicles and bled them every 2-3 years.
As for the pedal, it id not have any space before the calipers stuck. When I press the pedal now, it travels down a few inches before you can feel it engages the rod. When I release the pedal, it bounce back with a "thud" noise. That is why I suspect either the booster diaphragm malfunctioned causing it to stick or the MC malfunctioned.
Kin
I have done brakes on all my vehicles and bled them every 2-3 years.
As for the pedal, it id not have any space before the calipers stuck. When I press the pedal now, it travels down a few inches before you can feel it engages the rod. When I release the pedal, it bounce back with a "thud" noise. That is why I suspect either the booster diaphragm malfunctioned causing it to stick or the MC malfunctioned.
Kin
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