Hey guys so I have another project going wanted to do more of a simpleish front swap rather than a crown vic swap. So I have a 67 f100 2wd. Again it has no ps no pb and drums obviously. Snagged a 75 f150 with a 360 in it for $400. I want to use the front end for the swap.

The 67 steering column broke internally no it's not the linkage it's the whole column that broke. Could I use the steering coulumn from that truck with the steering box and pump to get power steering? While using that column do I have to change shaft length at all or anything g else besides wiring for the coulumn or would it just bolt right in

 

Marty, I hope your truck has a 352 in it, and the same tranny as the donor, if yes, everything is bolt hole swap. I bought a 76 360/C6 for my 66 3 on the tree, swapped the complete I-beam set, steering gear, column, the C6 auto everything, You will need the dash cuff off the 67 as it is deeper than the 75 or just use longer bolts. The Saginaw steering gear and column have to be swapped together as the connect point is about 2 1/3in closer to the firewall than the current Bendix.



John

 

Just bought it today it still had the 360/390 family Cid sticker on the valve cover and the guy told me it was a 360. The 67 has a 428 non cj in it I assumed that the motor size wouldn't matter because they all have the same block design and can you explain this steering cuff to me? This is my first time dealing with automatic transmission steering column customization work. I am to assume it has a c6 I could be wrong and my 67 has a c6 as well

 

Marty the 352/360/390/428 are all FEs and should have the same mounts so swapping should be easy. 352 would have come in it in 67, no idea what may have been swapped in by today. Is the 67 an auto?

The dash cuff is the hold it in place U at the dash the one on the 67 is deeper needs to be retained for visual. If you look at one and then the other you can see how the fit is different in size. The 75 rests deeper in it's dash so the cuff is shorter. Longer than the original bolts will hold it in place, leaving a space where they don't meet.


John

 

Thanks for the explanation John. And yes the 67 is an automatic. I decoded the vin and it had a 352 at one time from the factory. Like I said it has a 428 non cj in it now. Witch is still an FE block just like the 75 I just bought.

So what your saying is everything should work for the steering coulumn on the 75 to bolt up to my 67. Like I said I would be using the 75 power steering pump. The gear box and column and having its bolt on my 67. I understand that there will probably be minor modifications and that's what I am trying to figure out if it's something as simple as different bolts for something or that dash cuff yoi were explaining. Or is it to the degree of cutting the shaft length?

 

check out the tech section on fordification.com and scroll down. youll find some pretty good information on your front end swop and your steering column interchange.
as for the front end I recommend a sway bar, addco has pretty cheap and they work great. I love mine
I strongly recommend a booster and adjacent master cylinder(for boosted drum drum or disc drum. its night and day, I love mine. stay away from remand MC or booster. go new aftermarket both for cost and stop-ability. also though I love my oem ford power disc brakes I have on my 68. I love my power drum brakes I have on my 64 much better.


just my 2 cents

 

The donor truck has a master cylinder in it so I am just going to use that in my truck.

 

Marty, Think in terms of sets, keep everything together as a set. Saginaw steering gear & column. They are both basically the same length from the horn button to the / that goes to the tie rod. The connect point is closer to the firewall because the Saginaw has lines feed the gear in that window. I would replace the master cylinder, maybe wheel cylinders with at least remans. I have had good success using remans, but new is an option.

That cuff holds the column up in the dash. I think once you look at one then walk over and look at the other it will become clear what I am talking about.


John

 

Okay much-appreciated input John no just curious on break while doing the front swap I saw a thread but cannot find it something to do with a distribution valve on the frame I believe on the 75 that I would have do I need that for my 67 do you know what I'm talking about?

 

Your Bumpside would have a stock Pressure Differential Valve. You'll find it inside the left frame rail, just behind the steering gear box. It will look like this.






The Dentsides were the first trucks to get an integrated, multi-function brake valve, since the Dentsides were the first trucks to come with front disc brakes as standard equipment --power brakes was optional.

There were primarily two different disc/drum brake valves used on the Dentside trucks. There was a cast iron bodied valve made by Kelsey-Hayes for trucks under 6,800 lbs and a brass bodied disc/drum brake valve made by Weatherhead for trucks over 6,800 lbs.

The cast iron K-H valve is the one pictured in the middle. The Weatherhead brass valve is the one pictured on the right --Pressure Differential Valve pictured on the far left.



The Kelsey-Hayes and the Weatherhead valve assemblies will contain a Metering (hold-off) valve to the front disc brakes, a Pressure Differential Valve between the front and rear brake circuits and a Proportioning Valve to the rear drum brakes.

K-H valve.


Weatherhead valve.

 

So do I use the proportioning valve that's on my bumps idea or use the one on the dentside?

 

No Bumpsides came with a proportioning valve. They only had a PDV.

In the case of a '68-'72 F250 or an F350 that came with optional factory front discs, the PDV was used in conjunction with a stand-alone metering valve that was plumbed inline to the front discs but, they had no proportioning valve to the rear drums.



Beginning in 1973, Ford combined the Metering and Pressure Differential Valve, along with the addition of a Proportioning Valve, into one brake valve assembly.

When I put '77 F100 front discs on my '69 F100 Ranger, I bought an OEM NOS disc/drum brake valve off ebay for an '84-'86 Ford F150/Bronco.

I made a bracket and mounted the brake valve to the top of the steering gear box.




There's a reproduction of a GM brake valve that's very similar to this and is readily available through aftermarket vendors. The primary difference is with the pressure warning switch sticking out of the valve body. It's different than the Ford switch but comes with a pigtail to wire it in.

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/prod...ord-bronco-new

.....this is assuming IF the '75 disc/drum valve is gummed up and can't be used, you can get a new aftermarket brake valve.

1967 Ford trucks only had a one wire pressure switch. '68 and beyond had two wire switches.

 

If you're curious to find out if the donor disc/drum brake valve has a pressure differential valve spool that's shifted off center, you can check it with a multimeter.

This is the drum/drum PDV off my '69 F100 but, the same test will work for any brake valve with a pressure differential switch.

The '75 valve you have will have two prongs sticking up inside the pressure warning switch. It doesn't matter which prong you put the meter lead to, both prongs are tied together (they are electrically at the same potential).

You can see the 'bar' that ties the two prongs together, making them common.



Set your meter for Ohms or, if you have a meter with an audible 'beep' feature, select it. Touch one of the meter leads to one of the prongs and the other meter lead to the outside of the valve body.

If the meter shows a resistance value or, if the meter 'beeps,' the pressure differential valve spool is shifted off-center.



If the meter shows no resistance (Open Line) or, if there's no 'beep,' the pressure differential valve spool is centered as it should be.



Being shifted doesn't necessarily mean the valve is bad. It means in its last state of use, there was a brake problem with the truck it came off of. The potential problem lies in whether the valve spool will recenter again. This will just depend on how long the donor truck sat around and how often the previous owner kept the brake fluid changed out, to reduce deposits from building up in the passages that could gum up the valve spool.

 

I'm not going to lie ranger this is alot of info and I am way confused right now. If I am doing a disc front and leave the rear drums so I need this valve off the 75 or no I'm getting confused with all this info it's very helpful bit it leaves me to have more questions than I think I ever woukd have but I do appreciate the help very much

 

I didn't learn this stuff over night so, it's perfectly normal to be overwhelmed if this stuff is new to you.

You will need the disc/drum brake valve from the donor truck in order to make the discs front/drums rear work properly on your truck.

If it should turn out that the donor valve spool is shifted off-center and can't be recentered, you'll need to obtain a working OEM valve or, the other option for an OEM-type brake valve is to buy a new reproduction disc/drum brake valve.