OK guys i wanting and looking for info on the suspension swap that i am wanting to do. I am wanting to go with a 2001 crown vic suspension. Since it is cheaper than the popular mustang ll. I have the original flat head motor in it still and am going to keep it in the truck. what do i need to do about adding power steering? OR should I leave the original straight axel suspension in the truck? Cause right now it drives from white line to white line. Would replacing king pins help keep it straight or will it always be a work out driving it the original suspension? As i have never owned a truck this old and have no idea how they are suspose to handle. I am wanting to keep the truck as original as possible, but i want it to be as safe as possible as well (I know catch 22). So i am willing to do upgrades as needed (suspension, brakes, seat belts, etc.). Any opinions, ideas, thoughts and knowledge will be helpful.

 

FYI, the Crown Vic front end is about 6" too wide to fit into the 48-52 trucks. It's been done, but you need to be a master fabricator and know how to weld aluminum, and understand steering geometry to make the cuts correctly and put it all back together. If you have to pay someone to do it, your cheap swap could turn very costly.

The straight axle front end can be made to ride and drive very good. Once upon a time they did drive like a new car/truck. But like everything with age, after 60 years the front suspension bushings and joints probably have a little bit of wear and play, and when you add it all up it becomes line to line steering, as you describe. For a few hundred dollars, you can have the stock front end completely rebuilt.

 

i was told i could buy a cross member kit for it and then it would fit no issue. which is what i am thinking of doing and i have a fiend that has built tons and restored tons, that is helping. Master mechanic i would say, but would it be more cost effective to rebuild the original and be as safe as an upgrade? IF i do the upgrade do i have to put powersteering on it?

 

There is no reason these old truck have to drive white line to white line. Don't stop at king pins but rebuild the front end with all new parts, not that expensive. With a rebuilt front end, good shocks, radial tires, these old trucks will go down the road straight. Replace the rear spring shackle bolts and bushings as well. IMHO, you don't need power steering. Drum brakes will do the job unless you have a hot rod and drive it as such. There is safety in the dual brake system when you go to front disks.

 

thanks raytasch i know i dont need powersteering and i wouldnt want to put it on the truck if i didnt have too. it deff is not a hotrod lol not with the old flat. i am just thinking on the side of safety and cost but i guess you cant put a price on safety.

 

Everyone see's these projects differently, to each his own.
I am also a newby to this type of restoration. In January we started on my grandsons 52 F1. We stripped the frame down to the rails and hanger brackets. We replaced all pins and bushings, king pins and bushings new brakes, all lines metal and rubber, rebuilt master cylinder, new bushings in clutch and brake mechanisms, and new shocks. We stripped all the rust and paint down to the bare metal, including disassembly of the springs, primed and recoated with black enamel.
My point is this, It will be a 1952 ride with the original suspension. It is a lot of work but cost wise really not that bad completing to this phase. Best of all the engineering head work was already in place. Unless you are getting the crown vic front end for nothing and the fabrication labor is free you will be hard pressed to complete the suspension retro for less than what we have in the original as outlined above.
We have approx. 260 man hours invested so far. The running boards are ready to prime as is the rear bumper. I estimate repairing the front bumper and prepping will be another 2 days work as it is bent and will be challenging. Hope by the end of this week to be 100% finished with the frame.
I guess for a couple of old geezers in our 60's it is not that bad but I am 3 weeks behind my goal already due to weather, problem with identifying a problem with a backing plate on rear axle, and life's everyday obstacles.
Choose your plan, set your goals, and work safely.

 

Modifying (shortening) the CV rack and crossmember are not typical hot-rodding tasks. It's both precision machine work and high-quality welding on both aluminum and alloy steel. If you ever need a new rack, you get to do it all over again, too. There are better alternatives in my opinion.

 

ok thanks everyone I am just gonna rebuild the stock suspension. I cant afford a mustang ll change at this time.

 

You can keep the straight axle, rebuild everything, and add a Toyota Power Steering set-up. Don't know a whole lot about it, but folks on this forum can help. Thought it's kinda' inexpensive too. P/S on these old trucks is a blessing. And keep that Flathead. Everyone and his brother has a Small Block Chevy.

 

I guess I'm pretty easy going and would never expect a 60 year old truck to handle and drive like a modern vehicle. Part of the charm of having an old truck is that it is different from what everyone else is driving.

My front end was partially rebuilt recently and I just started driving my tuck again. I must say I was pleasantly surprised. The steering is reasonably tight, the truck goes down the road nice and straight, and with the original large steering wheel and narrow tires, steering effort is much easier than I expected. I wouldn't consider power steering (or brakes) necessary at all. Admittedly, I've only driven my recently repaired truck about 100 miles, but I'm very happy with my original set-up.

My biggest complaint with my driving experience would be the noise level. I believe it somewhat exceeds what would generally be considered "charming" for an old vehicle.

Good luck with your truck and welcome to FTE--Lots of great people here willing and able to help.