There's been a few requests to talk about coils in the F-Series. Let's hear your questions for our engineers about the Super Duty's coils and strength.

 

In the case of the F-450, could you please explain exactly what upgrades are included when ordering the camper package. Thank you.

 

What the heck is a "super duty coil?

 

To be a little more specific coil springs. There were a couple requests to talk about them from the "Questions for Future Topics" sub-thread when we first started up.

 

For the F-450 Camper package you get the extra heavy-duty alternator, heavy-service front spring (4X4) and the slide-in camper certification. What you don't get included is the rear aux springs which is on the F-350 and the Rear Stabilizer Bar which is SRW only.

 

The camper package seems to be different for each vehicle. If one has already specified heavier service springs, the camper package does not increase the front springs 1 level. The heavy duty alternator was also applied through other options. When I talked to the dealer about this I thought I was staring down a deer in the headlights. They could not explain if I was paying for the same upgrade twice and they could not explain any benefit in "slide in camper certified" other than having a certified rating which had already been covered by other upgrades. I hope there is a better explanation covering all bases. Thanks

 

Is there a way to determine spring rate from the VIN or otherwise? I would like to go to a softer spring and then add air leveling. Using a softer spring would necessitate using a longer spring in order to retain ride height. I know that if I have rate, I can calculate new spring length and (required)rate by measuring deflection of the current spring. Does this make sense?

 

Just upgraded my 2013 F250 to a F350 DRW. Tow a 7,000lb goose neck horse trailer on a weekly basis. Noticed a very distinct bounce in the ride that I never had on my F250. I actually notice it without the trailer attached as well, although it is more subtle than when the trailer is attached. Dealer couldn't figure it out. Truck has 8k miles on it now.

AS a test, I pressed my foot hard on my tongue hitch to see if it would bounce (shock absorber test), and while it was not a big bounce, it bounced and I could feel it in my foot.

Was thinking it was a shock issue, and I am fine with upgrading the shocks at all 4 corners, but not if it doesn't solve the issue. Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

P.S. I love my truck. She is green, so we call it the tank. Just want to get rid of that silly bounce!

 

Thanks drhach and mfrancis84. Let's see what our engineers might have to say.

 

Enjoy your green!! Ford thinks green is an obsolete obsession of old curmudgeons. Seeing red over not being able to buy another green truck after 35 years of them.

 

My truck actually has that bounce. Installing new shocks alleviated it but introduced another issue, which was a harsher ride. I bought RS9000's front and back and cranked them up all the way.


This is why I was hoping to learn the spring rate. I'd like to go with some thing lighter but taller so that in the end, I have the same ride height.


Dan

 

Is there any way to change the location of your ball/attachment point? Adding or reducing weight to the front axle can make a dramatic difference. Factory or aftermarket hitch? You might also want to make note of the axle loading on a scale. And also make sure the trailer axles are riding level and both have equal weight. These may all be mute questions, but they all are contributing factors to a poor ride. And the worst scenario is the wheelbase of the trailer may be at a natural harmonic of the truck springs. I had a Chevy company truck for a while years ago and it felt like the back axle was trying to jump over the front axle all the time. Dealer said "that's just the way they build 'em these days."

 

An update to my "bounce" issue. Towed this weekend with 3 full size horses in the trailer. No bounce. Horses had a smooth ride, and so did the cab occupants. It could be just what Rasalas said - wheelbase of the trailer at a natural harmonic with this truck. In any case, I did order the rear Rancho RS9000's and they will arrive later this week. I will order the front as well, since I think it is better to have them match on all 4 corners. I will certainly update everyone on how it turns out. Thanks for all the info everyone.

 

This issue seems to be quite common in the DRW models from the research I have done since buying my 2007 F350 Lariat Crew Cab Powerstroke 4x4 DRW. I noticed the bounce on a cement Hwy over the seams in the road and she rides better with a load. I replaced the shocks with brand new Motorcrafts out of the box and I do notice an improvement in ride quality. She handles the road great with the exception of those dips or seams on cement Hwys especially without a load. I'm really interested to see if the Ranchos make a difference with the bouncing. I thought in 2011 Ford upgraded the shocks to Ranchos for the 4x4 Lariat/KR/Platinum models.

 

Some concrete highways can create a terrible ride depending on the length of the pours specified for the construction. Interstate 90 just west of Syracuse NY was rebuilt entirely a few years ago. From the day the new highway opened my 158" WB nearly broke my neck for the entire 18 mile stretch, either direction. Addition of weight only helped modestly. Pulling a trailer makes little difference. Standard length trucks do not have this problem nor do cars (at least those I have been in). I tried to contact the NYS DOT engineers about this "frequency" issue and their response was it was not in the design of the highway. I have since been on another NYS highway built the same way and it has the same issue, although not as bad. Why can't highways be built which are smooth out of the box and last more than a handful of years. And don't talk about frost and water seepage and heavy trucks. Engineering should have come a long way since the original plank roads. Maybe we need and Affordable Highway Company (AHC), oh, don't get political.