2006 Expedition 5.4 3v 200,000+

Two weeks ago the truck was running rough and so I got the codes pulled and it showed p0022. So I changed the bank 2 VCT solenoid and it got better for about a week. Then it started running rough again and I got p0012 so I changed the bank 1 solenoid. After two days, I was driving the kids to school and it sputtered a bit but I didn't think too much of it until about a mile later, it was missing, shuddering and the CEL went on. I pulled over and got the kids to school and came back and drove it the 1.2 miles home with the CEL flashing and the car in limp mode. I left it for the day and came back in the morning and it started fine, and then after about 30 seconds the CEL started flashing and it started missing a bunch.

I borrowed a bluetooth code puller and pulled the following logged codes:

p0171 system too lean bank 1
p0300 random misfire
p0305 misfire cyl 5
p0307 misfire cyl 7
p0308 misfire cyl 8
p2198 O2 A/F Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p0012
p0022

I figured that the 0012 and the 0022 were still in there from the VCT solenoids so I reset all the codes and ran the vehicle for a few minutes. After about 30 seconds it started to sputter and miss and I pulled the following codes...


0300 random misfire
0305 misfire cyl 5
0307 misfire cyl 7
0308 misfire cyl 8
2198 O2 A/F Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Notably, to me anyways, no more p0022 or p0012. Not sure if that's because I actually didn't drive it or if it's just not retarding the timing or whatever.

I've done a ton of research and I'm guessing it's a catastrophic failure of the cam phaser on the drivers side, but I'm not sure since it's no longer throwing p0022. Not sure where to go next. Compression test I guess? When it starts up, it roars to life and *seems* to run fine, but then it kind of craps out after 10-30 seconds or so. I don't want to drive it, but I also don't want to tow it to a mechanic and pay him $400 to tell me that the motor is a boat anchor. I don't have a compression tester and I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money buying tools and swapping parts if I'm eventually going to have to dump a bunch of money in it for a motor.

Here's symptoms.

Runs really rough due to misfires.
Raw Gas smell when idling.
CEL
Above codes.

Here are my thoughts, is there any way to rule out anything in particular?

1. Cam Phaser crapped out and jumped time. Hosed the valves on 5,7 and 8.

2. Wiring issue to COPs. (unlikely I think)

3. 3 COPs crapped out at the exact same time.

4. Bad chain/tensioner/guides on bank 2.

5. ???

It's the weekend, so I really can't bring it to anyone until Monday so I'm trying to rule stuff out.

I can pull the valve cover off and inspect the phaser and chain. That's a pretty big time investment but I'm willing to do it. I think I should probably test compression, but I lack the tool. Same goes for testing oil pressure.

Not sure what I can do next, but I'm open to ideas.

Thanks for having a look.

 

My SWAG would be that the O2 sensor bank2 sensor1 is sticking rich so the PCM is forcing the injectors on that bank lean to compensate. This is causing misfires on that bank. Check the fuel trims to confirm.


(Or maybe bank 2 is getting over fueled, forcing the O2 rich and causing misfires.)

 

I would lean towards over fueled because I can smell raw gas coming out of the tailpipe. My concern is that that cam phaser had catastrophic failure maybe skipped a tooth or two and took out the valves on that side. I've done plugs and coils in the last thirty thousand miles so I'm fairly confident it's not plugs or coils. I guess I can swap out known good and see if that changes anything but I think it's highly unlikely that all 3 coils burned out at the exact same time. We're talking about the span of 24 hours. But I'm not sure I'm an Audi guy. I guess the compression test will tell me for sure so I just need to Buck up and get a compression tester.

 

It's not the best, but Harbor Freight has a kit for $25.
Compression Test Kit 8 Pc
I've used mine a couple times and it works fine.
The bluetooth code puller you used might be able see the raw data to find out what the O2 sensor/fuel trims are doing or any "pending" faults.

 

The smell of gas is common when misfiring, even if the fuel trim is trying to lean it out. Try to disconnect the O2 sensor on bank 2, that should force the PCM to use default values. If it runs normally with the O2 disconnected, then you have a bad O2 sensor.

 

Update:

Compression test came back normal with all suspect cylinders ~148.

I swapped out the number 6 COP and plug with the #5 and cleared the codes. While it seemed to run a little better, after backing it out of the driveway and back in, CEL on and blinking with codes.

P0300
P0305
P0307
P0308

No O2 code this time, so there's that. Maybe I just didn't let it run enough, but that code is gone.

What next?

 

Update: Two bad phasers, bad timing chain tensioners and a torn up guide. Off to amazon, and start tearing it down.

Anyone recommend the Evergreen kit or should I go straight ford parts?

 

Most would recommend using OEM parts, specially on the phasers. Also replace the VCT solenoids while you're at it, and if the chain guides have missing pieces, you MUST remove the oil pan to remove the remaining pieces. If you do not do that, chances are that the pieces may clog up the oil pickup tube and you'll wreck the engine.

There is a company which makes metal chain guides and cast iron chain tensioners if you're looking for an upgrade: Modular Motorsports Racing | Home of the Worlds Fastest Modular Engines

 

Thanks. I will go oem. Already have replaced the two solenoids. Have plans to replace the oil pump and pull the pan and deal with the faldarall. At 212000 miles, I think I'm good with plastic. Thanks, appreciate your input.