Aeroforce install and column pod for ZF5
#1
Aeroforce install and column pod for ZF5
Got an Aeroforce gauge for my truck recently. Struggled to find a write-up and pictures of a column pod for trucks with the ZF5 manual transmission (Autometer part # 15011). Maybe struggled just due to competency with the search function, but regardless of the a reason, here's a brief write-up for anyone else who hasn't already done this.
I have done a lot of work to vehicles - routine brake and steering maintenance, had transmissions out, did R/R injectors, etc. Silly as it sounds, I had never installed a gauge. Installing the AF was very straightforward.
3-wire power connector plugs into top port on back of gauge, OBD2 connector goes to bottom port. For our trucks, remove jumper.
Picture of back of gauge:
Back of AF gauge, OBD2 plug show going into bottom (left in this photo) port. Two silver prongs are where the mini-jumper was removed.
I read the AF instructions. Red wire from 3-wire connector goes to a simple add-a-circuit because the OBD2 port does not send power to the gauge in our trucks, best I can tell. Green and white wires are for power to auxiliary inputs such as if you're running one of their pressure or temp sending units. I am not so these are just routed out of the way. Had to add a bit of wire to make it reach the add-a-circuit. AF says 22-gauge wire or bigger (numerically smaller), I used 18.
3-wire cable shown here with a little extra a added to the red power wire. Trying to ignore the wear marks in my seat fabric.
Add-a-circuit...
Not connected yet in this photo.
Wanted to try the column pod because I eventually want three conventional gauges on the pillar (EGT, boost, fuel psi). Was very concerned I would not like the column pod due to reading reviews about the automatic shifter hitting it, etc. But that's obviously not an issue with a ZF5 truck. Was also concerned it would look or feel cheap. Could not find pictures of one for the manual trucks. Now that I have it, I'm really pleased.
Here you can see how it just slips over the existing column trim (factory trim does not get removed). I pulled the black dash gauge bezel to make room, but it's probably not necessary. AF gauges just presses in.
Gauge in, wires run, tested to ensure it powered up first.
I was worried it would hide too much of the odometer, speedometer, etc based on some of the closeup photos I saw, but it really doesn't for me. Here's a view from as close to where I sit as I could get the camera. Only thing it blocks is 85 MPH and up and the decimal place on the odometer. Don't plan to be running this thing around at 85 MPH anyway. Granted, I sit up straight, not very reclined.
View of gauge from driver seat. Does not block much at all.
And here's the side view picture I could not seem to find anywhere for the manual column pod, obviously no whole for the auto shifter.
Installed
These are readily available from auto parts stores, on-line catalogue places, etc. Got mine from Clay at Riffraff. Yes, they are the part numbers for Super Duty trucks, but clearly fit the OBS fine. I like it better than I thought.
And I really like the AF gauge. Would like to have tried an app like Torque (especially after the great write-up on this site), but we have all Apple devices and could not find nearly as good reviews for the IOS-compatible OBD2 apps. Figured I'd have as much tied up in OBD2 wireless adapter and used Windows tablet as if I'd just got the AF gauge. Glad I did.
I have done a lot of work to vehicles - routine brake and steering maintenance, had transmissions out, did R/R injectors, etc. Silly as it sounds, I had never installed a gauge. Installing the AF was very straightforward.
3-wire power connector plugs into top port on back of gauge, OBD2 connector goes to bottom port. For our trucks, remove jumper.
Picture of back of gauge:
Back of AF gauge, OBD2 plug show going into bottom (left in this photo) port. Two silver prongs are where the mini-jumper was removed.
I read the AF instructions. Red wire from 3-wire connector goes to a simple add-a-circuit because the OBD2 port does not send power to the gauge in our trucks, best I can tell. Green and white wires are for power to auxiliary inputs such as if you're running one of their pressure or temp sending units. I am not so these are just routed out of the way. Had to add a bit of wire to make it reach the add-a-circuit. AF says 22-gauge wire or bigger (numerically smaller), I used 18.
3-wire cable shown here with a little extra a added to the red power wire. Trying to ignore the wear marks in my seat fabric.
Add-a-circuit...
Not connected yet in this photo.
Wanted to try the column pod because I eventually want three conventional gauges on the pillar (EGT, boost, fuel psi). Was very concerned I would not like the column pod due to reading reviews about the automatic shifter hitting it, etc. But that's obviously not an issue with a ZF5 truck. Was also concerned it would look or feel cheap. Could not find pictures of one for the manual trucks. Now that I have it, I'm really pleased.
Here you can see how it just slips over the existing column trim (factory trim does not get removed). I pulled the black dash gauge bezel to make room, but it's probably not necessary. AF gauges just presses in.
Gauge in, wires run, tested to ensure it powered up first.
I was worried it would hide too much of the odometer, speedometer, etc based on some of the closeup photos I saw, but it really doesn't for me. Here's a view from as close to where I sit as I could get the camera. Only thing it blocks is 85 MPH and up and the decimal place on the odometer. Don't plan to be running this thing around at 85 MPH anyway. Granted, I sit up straight, not very reclined.
View of gauge from driver seat. Does not block much at all.
And here's the side view picture I could not seem to find anywhere for the manual column pod, obviously no whole for the auto shifter.
Installed
These are readily available from auto parts stores, on-line catalogue places, etc. Got mine from Clay at Riffraff. Yes, they are the part numbers for Super Duty trucks, but clearly fit the OBS fine. I like it better than I thought.
And I really like the AF gauge. Would like to have tried an app like Torque (especially after the great write-up on this site), but we have all Apple devices and could not find nearly as good reviews for the IOS-compatible OBD2 apps. Figured I'd have as much tied up in OBD2 wireless adapter and used Windows tablet as if I'd just got the AF gauge. Glad I did.
#2
Hm, AF works using the power from the port with both our trucks. But it was probably smarter of you to use the external power. I haven't proven this conclusively, but I THINK that if you use the port power (jumper IN), the AF draws some power even when the key is off. I see that my display stays on for aprx. 1 minute after taking the key out. And one of our trucks had two plumb dead batteries after leaving it parked for about 6 weeks with the AF connected to the port. Not something you'd notice on a DD, but for a truck that sits for long periods, your approach is better.
#3
My 97 has the jumper in, no external power and is powered via the port. My AF powers off in ~ 3 seconds after turning the key off. AF does state if the vehicle will sit for long periods of time to unplug it from the port as it does draw some power. They also state to unplug it when disconnecting batteries. I've had it plugged in over 2 weeks and not driving the beast and it started fine.
#4
#5
#6
My 97 has the jumper in, no external power and is powered via the port. My AF powers off in ~ 3 seconds after turning the key off. AF does state if the vehicle will sit for long periods of time to unplug it from the port as it does draw some power. They also state to unplug it when disconnecting batteries. I've had it plugged in over 2 weeks and not driving the beast and it started fine.
#7
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#8
Thanks for sharing kmjone00!
I used some heat to form the gear shift opening so that the lever would not hit the pod when shifting into park.
The rubber under the factory gauge cluster holds mine in place, no glue, tape or velcro is used.
I wired mine external too, it comes on and turns off with the key.
The only drawback (for me) with this setup, is that if I needed to monitor the ICP or similar during a trouble shooting session, like diagnosing a long crank and no start condition, is that the ignition key being in the crank position does not power the AF gauge. This is relatively easy to make a temporary jumper from a constant hot source to the gauge.
I really enjoy mine. When it is cold outside I watch the oil and trans temp so I know when I can start pushing the fuel pedal a little harder. Als watch the same when towing a trailer or inoperative vehicle. For fun, watching the injector pressure and duty cycle, or the boost, exhaust back pressure, etc, are all time consumers on long trips.
Oh, and being able to read/clear codes and run the buzz and the contributions tests? A nice perk.
I used some heat to form the gear shift opening so that the lever would not hit the pod when shifting into park.
The rubber under the factory gauge cluster holds mine in place, no glue, tape or velcro is used.
I wired mine external too, it comes on and turns off with the key.
The only drawback (for me) with this setup, is that if I needed to monitor the ICP or similar during a trouble shooting session, like diagnosing a long crank and no start condition, is that the ignition key being in the crank position does not power the AF gauge. This is relatively easy to make a temporary jumper from a constant hot source to the gauge.
I really enjoy mine. When it is cold outside I watch the oil and trans temp so I know when I can start pushing the fuel pedal a little harder. Als watch the same when towing a trailer or inoperative vehicle. For fun, watching the injector pressure and duty cycle, or the boost, exhaust back pressure, etc, are all time consumers on long trips.
Oh, and being able to read/clear codes and run the buzz and the contributions tests? A nice perk.
Last edited by LeoJr; 03-12-2016 at 11:32 AM. Reason: spelun
#9
The only drawback (for me) with this setup, is that if I needed to monitor the ICP or similar during a trouble shooting session, like diagnosing a long crank and no start condition, is that the ignition key being in the crank position does not power the AF gauge. This is relatively easy to make a temporary jumper from a constant hot source to the gauge.
#10
Yes I read the posts about using heat to shape it a bit (LeoJR) prior to installing mine, good info. The factor gauge shroud is holding mine in place too, did not need the velcro or tape yet, hope it stays that way. I was pleasantly surprised.
Thanks for the suggestion about #3 and #17 fuses (madpogue) will give that a try. I agree, I'd prefer it to be on during start up in case needed for troubleshooting.
Thanks for the suggestion about #3 and #17 fuses (madpogue) will give that a try. I agree, I'd prefer it to be on during start up in case needed for troubleshooting.
#11
Just moved mine to #3 and it now keeps reading during the crank. The back light dims, but the numbers are still visible. Thanks madpogue!!
#12
Thanks for the feedback, will try #3. Had a strange thing happen tonight, gauge metrics just froze. The gauge was still functional. I could hit both buttons to go back to the menu, and could use the left to scroll and right to select. But when in scan mode the numbers just locked on their last reading (i.e. 15% IPR DC, no change with throttle, 55 MPH, no change of speed). When I restarted truck after picking kids up it worked fine, then froze again on way home. Trying to search here and on the AF website forum, but figured I'd ask about this since I had this thread started. Anybody experience this issue?
#13
Might try slowing down the scan rate a bit and see if it helps ...
DATA RATE. Choosing scan rate allows you to adjust the speed in which the display will update. When selected, a number from 1 to 6 will appear, the higher the value the slower the scan rate. The left button can be used to alter this value. Select the new value by hitting the right button, which will send you back to the main menu.
DATA RATE. Choosing scan rate allows you to adjust the speed in which the display will update. When selected, a number from 1 to 6 will appear, the higher the value the slower the scan rate. The left button can be used to alter this value. Select the new value by hitting the right button, which will send you back to the main menu.
#14
#15
I have installed one in each of my trucks (4 or 5 over the years?), they are extremely helpful with these trucks.
I have plenty on the shelf if anyone's interested.
I have plenty on the shelf if anyone's interested.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4