302 wont rev
#18
#19
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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My kickdown cable is frayed at the throttle body so I don't think adjusting it would do much good. That is why I think the kickdown cable is sticking at times.
I know I need to find one though but adjusting it according to what I read sounds like it should help my issue.
So now to find a 302 EFI C6 kickdown cable (I know I am not getting one in a junkyard because nobody around here has a C6 with 302).
Trav
I know I need to find one though but adjusting it according to what I read sounds like it should help my issue.
So now to find a 302 EFI C6 kickdown cable (I know I am not getting one in a junkyard because nobody around here has a C6 with 302).
Trav
#20
Weird, most late model C6 modulator valves should. The screw is inside the vacuum nipple - you have to take the hose off to access it.
No, that is not true. Hold it to the boards and see if it winds out to a little over 4k before shifting, or falls on its face.
The kickdown cable being frayed and broken is an issue too. If not adjusted correctly, your transmission won't have a 3-2 downshift, which is important on the highway.
Almost floored yes but I believe if you floor these trucks it cuts off the fuel or at least I know it does when trying to start it.
The kickdown cable being frayed and broken is an issue too. If not adjusted correctly, your transmission won't have a 3-2 downshift, which is important on the highway.
#21
Something you can do "FOR TESTING PURPOSES ONLY" if you have some string or zip ties, tie the kickdown lever it the WOT position and take a trip around the block and see where it shifts. If it has shifts above 4k then you need a cable and to adjust it.
Did this for a manual to c6 swap years ago and used zipties. And adjusted the ties click by click till it gave a shift point around 4200 then just ended up leaving it as was. Because it just became a mudding truck after awhile.
Did this for a manual to c6 swap years ago and used zipties. And adjusted the ties click by click till it gave a shift point around 4200 then just ended up leaving it as was. Because it just became a mudding truck after awhile.
#23
#25
Did you look into the vaccum line port? that is where the adjustment screw would be if it has one. I do not recall if all of them did or not, I do not believe the stock modulators where but just too long ago now.
They are or should be color coded ("stock" only perhaps?),
Purple or green band = cars
Black band = trucks
Turn screw clockwise for later firmer shifts, turn screw counter clockwise for earlier softer shifts
Regardless, in final drive the motor should have enough power to push itself beyond 3500 rpms/70mph. Its not going to go much faster but should hit 80 85 around there without too much trouble, large hill and or a heavy head wind could hamper it a little bit but at 70 3500rpms isn't at its limit yet.
If its doesn't I'd suggest looking into that aspect, verify timing is properly advancing out where it should be and that fuel pressure is sufficient etc at that speed/rpm.
This is a "New" motor right? properly broke in?
If have doubts might need a compression test to verify it is where it should be that it the rings did seat as expected, all cylinders 100% and are all participating equally.
They are or should be color coded ("stock" only perhaps?),
Purple or green band = cars
Black band = trucks
Turn screw clockwise for later firmer shifts, turn screw counter clockwise for earlier softer shifts
Regardless, in final drive the motor should have enough power to push itself beyond 3500 rpms/70mph. Its not going to go much faster but should hit 80 85 around there without too much trouble, large hill and or a heavy head wind could hamper it a little bit but at 70 3500rpms isn't at its limit yet.
If its doesn't I'd suggest looking into that aspect, verify timing is properly advancing out where it should be and that fuel pressure is sufficient etc at that speed/rpm.
This is a "New" motor right? properly broke in?
If have doubts might need a compression test to verify it is where it should be that it the rings did seat as expected, all cylinders 100% and are all participating equally.
#26
#27
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2-3 3700rpms
Did you look into the vaccum line port? that is where the adjustment screw would be if it has one. I do not recall if all of them did or not, I do not believe the stock modulators where but just too long ago now.
They are or should be color coded ("stock" only perhaps?),
Purple or green band = cars
Black band = trucks
Turn screw clockwise for later firmer shifts, turn screw counter clockwise for earlier softer shifts
Regardless, in final drive the motor should have enough power to push itself beyond 3500 rpms/70mph. Its not going to go much faster but should hit 80 85 around there without too much trouble, large hill and or a heavy head wind could hamper it a little bit but at 70 3500rpms isn't at its limit yet.
If its doesn't I'd suggest looking into that aspect, verify timing is properly advancing out where it should be and that fuel pressure is sufficient etc at that speed/rpm.
This is a "New" motor right? properly broke in?
If have doubts might need a compression test to verify it is where it should be that it the rings did seat as expected, all cylinders 100% and are all participating equally.
They are or should be color coded ("stock" only perhaps?),
Purple or green band = cars
Black band = trucks
Turn screw clockwise for later firmer shifts, turn screw counter clockwise for earlier softer shifts
Regardless, in final drive the motor should have enough power to push itself beyond 3500 rpms/70mph. Its not going to go much faster but should hit 80 85 around there without too much trouble, large hill and or a heavy head wind could hamper it a little bit but at 70 3500rpms isn't at its limit yet.
If its doesn't I'd suggest looking into that aspect, verify timing is properly advancing out where it should be and that fuel pressure is sufficient etc at that speed/rpm.
This is a "New" motor right? properly broke in?
If have doubts might need a compression test to verify it is where it should be that it the rings did seat as expected, all cylinders 100% and are all participating equally.
The engine only has 3500 miles on it.
If their is no head winds I can do 70-85 no issue but once a headwind and hill I drop to 60 but once I get over the hill back to 70. I will have to look if there is an adjuster screw. I don't remember seeing one when I replaced the rubber on the vacuum line.
The PO did some really stupid things with the current transmission so I wouldn't doubt something got adjusted to make it shift sooner. Stupid like tie wiring things, butspliced connectors on the neutral safety switch and such.
Trav
#28
I've been looking and haven't found one online at any parts stores but looks like summit or Jegs may have them
#29
I've been looking and haven't found one online at any parts stores but looks like summit or Jegs may have them[/QUOTE]
#30