1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

truck feels like a pinball game

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  #16  
Old 08-04-2016, 05:04 PM
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More to add as I still have bad steering. new everything except the power steering pump, shaft and ball joints. Ball joints were inspected at a shop and they said they are still good. I don't see any play in the shaft. I see movement in the new rebuilt box it is the same as the old box. Could a lack of fluid pressure cause this? it does not seem hard to move but it is not as easy as my other trucks. I'm about to replace everything on the steering soon if I cant figure it out. Shaft and pump. not sure if the box is bad??
 
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:34 PM
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the Pittman should move anytime the input shaft moves,
the reason everyone recommends redhead is because they actually rebuild the gear box, if the shafts are worn they replace them, other re builders (ATSCO) who re build for the major parts chains don't replace shafts. most of the time they re seal and re paint. I have gone through 4 steering gear boxes to get an acceptable one (not a great one) real nice when you are billing flat rate ad get to do the same job 4 times and get paid for one
 
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Old 08-05-2016, 09:44 AM
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Drives me nuts when I post something and it does not post............... likely uses issues.


I found the bolt on the steering shaft to the gear box was loose. after tightening it felt better. Duhhh. I have about 1 to 2 inch play now. I feel a little play in the rag joint area. Not the rag joint its self but the bracket ? I feel a little play in the box but very little. I think if I was to replace the steering shaft I will have a good enough situation. Is there an after marked joint I can use with out replacing the complete shaft?
 
  #19  
Old 08-05-2016, 09:59 AM
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Ford Steering Shaft Coupler - 1ASTC00062 at 1A Auto.com
will this work on the bottom of the stock shaft? it looks like I would have to cut the shaft to remove the stock rag joint...??? my eyes are shot when I get home and seeing details in the shadows seems to be an issue to me.
 
  #20  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:26 PM
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those ujoints can bind with age or even get sloppy loose, take it off and check for smooth tight operation


and ball joints can be tight and pass but they can bind up when turning with that heavy front end


her in the north in winter you can put on ice and try to move wheel by hand with tie rods removed to check for bind


some use a dolly or turntable type bearing to put tire on to check for bind
 
  #21  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:48 PM
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I have a rag joint right now. I was looking to upgrade it. Is there another option? outside of the 200-300 new shafts?
 
  #22  
Old 08-05-2016, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mcali2
I have a rag joint right now. I was looking to upgrade it. Is there another option? outside of the 200-300 new shafts?


rebuild what you have can be cheaper but more work


on ebay
rag joint 53


ujoint 97
 
  #23  
Old 08-05-2016, 01:26 PM
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oh cool. I did not see them. the bracket on mine is what moves. I wonder if it is a tightened down enough or is there play in the bracket??? someone said you can hammer down on some part to bring it back into correct fitment. I just need to remove it for a better look. how do I get the rod out. unbolt it from the inside of the cab and slide it out?
 
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:51 PM
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Well I found one on another site. 100.00 and it fits the shaft. looks like you cut off the old joint at the weld and slip this one on.

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Borgeson 052552 Steering Coupler- OEM Rag Joint Style
 
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