sorry guys dont mean to jump all over the place but to clear the CM codes do i unplug the jumper wire as soon as it starts to flash period? Or do i wait until, it starts to flash the actual codes? And does it matter which side I unplug the jumper wire from? I know this probably sounds stupid, just wanna make sure it's done right. Also should the engine be warm when i do it or no? and it's KOEO right? Thanks guys!!!!

 

Ok guys i ran a KOEO DTC this is what it read exactly 83,84 then pause then it repeated code 33,33 any ideas? Thanks!!

 

DTC 83 (KOEO): EGR Control solenoid circuit failure.
DTC 84 (KOEO): EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.

Code 33 (CM): EGR valve opening not detected.

Code 33 is a symptom of codes 83 and 84. Both indicate the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is not electrically connected to the computer (PCM). Could be open wires or the EVR solenoid is open.

 

Best way is with a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVM) set to resistance.

Some very good information here: Air Charge Temperature

 

Ok so if the green wire has continuity and the red wire has 12v going to it, should i suspect the pcm is bad or something internal is fried that has to do with the egr solenoid etc? The EVR solenoid is brand new. If i ground the solenoid to battery the truck stalls or dies. I can at least tell you that for sure! Thanks rla2005!

 

Sounds like an open green wire between the EVR solenoid and the Computer or an open switching to ground part (transistor) in the computer.

Also make sure the small black wire with a green stripe has a good ground at the NEG post of the battery.

 

ok i will check the wire at the battery neg. post for sure. How would i check the other? Thanks subford for the info on that!

 

Should I just delete the EGR valve ive heard its not a good idea but some say you can! Only if i cant figure out whats going on with it! What do any of you think? Just want some honest opinions on this with folks that have more experience than me! Way more oh no emissions test here. And since the Air injection is deleted any way. Thanks again!

 

...Also, back in the old days, the ACC (accessory) position in the ignition switch was always left of OFF, so the order was (left to right) ACC, OFF, RUN, START...

 

Whether or not the air injection system is in place or not has no bearing on whether or not you should/can delete the EGR system. While it is possible, I suggest to keep it. Trying to use a resistor to fool the computer has mixed results. You may still end up with a Check Engine Light (Code 33).

 

So should i try getting a used pcm to see if that helps i think i can get one locally for around 50 bucks and should i test the green wire to the EVR solenoid for continuity? I did check the wires at the battery - side post seemed to be ok there like subford suggested.

 

No sense spending money on a used computer yet. Use a meter to ohm out the green wire at the EVR back to the computer plug on Pin 33.

 

I don't know...my truck runs good with all that stuff. Are you trying to eliminate all the emissions stuff? I understand if you are, but for me, I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined that is needed to get all that stuff out and have the truck running good. I would just assume buy an older truck without a lot of it. The older truck you get, the less emission and smog stuff to deal with...if that's what you're trying to do...

 

ok will check that I've done it a long while back with good results at that time maybe something happened since

 

Dont really want to delete it per say. Just getting certain Egr codes that's saying its not working! And im getting kinda tired of, chasing stuff this and that. So Im kinda just going with get rid of it, so i dont have to deal with it! But if it will do more harm than good, i guess i will try to fix it! I hope thanks guys!!!