When the STI wire is grounded either by you or a code reader and the key is then turned on the system will do the KOEO electrical test to see if all the sensors electrical readings values are in the ball park so to speak. It will then output the KOEO electrical codes. After the KOEO codes are done there will be a space code (10 if using a reader or a single flash on the CEL). After the space code then the system will output the CM codes that was stored while you were driving. These CM codes will last for 60 start ups or until you clear them by grounding the STI wire with the key on and when the CEL starts to flash remove the ground from the STI wire and then turn off the key. The CM codes will then be cleared.
When you get 11, 11, 1, 11, 11 from the KOEO & CM readout you can then and only then you run the KOER actuator test to test the actuators.

 

thanks subford i know i have a bit better understanding of this! But i have tried to clear the cm codes but haven't had any luck they always seem to be there!

 

Tell the wife to pry loose of about $20 and get yourself an Equus/Innova 3145 code reader. All the time you have spent retrieving codes by counting flashes and misinterpreting a time or two has to be getting old.

It will pay for itself in short order. He**...I'm about ready to send you mine

 

thanks i was trying to drop the exhaust to have that pipe welde but the darn nut on the top of the exhaust manifold stud is stripping even with pb blaster Aaaaaaahhhhhhh!! Lol thanks again

 

You, arent kidding about counting flashes man! Also I got a another question, no surprise there! Lol how come i get all these codes but never once have i had CEL illumination? Actually it did come on about 2 minutes that's why i did the code retrieval! Thanks again guys

 

The CEL only comes on for emission related problems.
Other problems like a missed PIP and a few other codes do not light the CEL and only show up in the CM read out part of the self-test.

 

That would explain y it came on 4 a bit the other night then went off and had the o2 sensor code thanks subford

 

Well i guys im working on the rest of the smog pump removal finally got the cross over tube out! So i had to drop the exhaust pipe due to several leaks that have to be welded up just trying to make sure that nothing effects the o2 sensor output and replacing o2 sensor. Also u am putting a new exhaust manifold on the right side due to a leak at the downpipe. And the studs do not, have enough threads to tighten it up so it wont leak so im trying to make some progress will let you know when that

 

Hey guys i got another question again. No surprise there i guess i should of asked this before should i have a loud wooshing sound at the brake booster when i step on the pedal when the truck is running? Thanks guys

 

No, you have a ruptured diaphragm in the brake booster.

 

also i should point out if i pump the brakes it effects the idle is this normal and it seems the pedal slowly sinks to the floor! Any help is appreciated once again!! Have a great day all!!!

 

ok i guess i will be replacing that to thanks subford will this cause idle problems or act like a vacuum leak?

 

Yes it can on both accounts.

 

Brake pedal sinking to the floor also indicates a worn master-cylinder.

 

ok thanks guys im working on replacing it as we speak! Thanks gentlemen!! Have a great day and i did get the smog pump removed completely! At least thats a plus! finally