yea, as I hook them up per the electrical schematic, I'll add fuses, etc. as needed. Thanx.

 

I hope this may clarify things. You want to be careful about adding fuses where there weren't any previously as they could add unnecessary resistance, or cause a critical circuit to open.

 

well, mine was connected the same. The shrink tube was covering a connector extending the wire (I cut it too short (off) so had to add more ). My ground to the cluster was undersized but worked as it as readings coming in to all points showed solid 12V, etc.
#4, stop light wire on it, then another for testing lights
#1, there is a heavy red wire wrapping through batt gauge providing power.

what is weird, the voltage reducer didn't start working until I separated the grounds, i.e. unhook from cluster and run #5 ground off to another ground spot??

weird. Will check more tonight if rain holds out. Thanx!

 

1234567890

 

What's that supposed to mean?

 

His reply was in the quoted section, but you have to have 10 digits to be able to Post.

 

#1, I was instructed to run that wire (single wire alternator) directly to battery (as per mfg instructions).
Ground issues? That's odd. voltage check out on everything but the gauges and voltage reducer. I even took all the gauges out and cleaned all contacts. If I touch the cluster mount hole that the black wire runs to from the chassis, I can touch all the other connections and get good readings...
My ground is on the engine (main battery wire), and the smaller one directly to frame.

 

That will work, but your ammeter will constantly show discharge. Unless you run the wire from the alternator to the same post as the BAT wire, you won't see NET charging/discharging.

What smaller wire, one on the battery cable? The cab is isolated from the frame by rubber doughnuts. A ground can get to the cab thru other connections, but you should run from the battery ground to the cab and frame directly.

 

on the neg (-) battery lead there was the main and a smaller one. Main hooks to engine, smaller to frame.

So are you saying I need on in the cab now? I touch the walls inside the cab and have ground? But will check. Thanx.

 

For the statement about the alternator battery cable, if I hook to the same point (Starter relay), that would be a voltage issue (too much). I'm not using a voltage regulator since I've read it's not needed, single wire alternator. Thanx.

 

1234567890

 

#1, I've always read to connect it directly to starter relay or to battery (mfg instructions). You're suggesting going to the cluster circuit breaker?

Ground issue: ok, makes sense but those gauges are quite large. I will need to go buy some ground cables at my local auto parts store. But power isn't that large, the return off the alternator isn't much more than 10-12 gauge I think.

do I still need a ground cable going to cab, and if so where to connect?

Thanx!

 

How many amps is your alternator rated for? Usually a minimum of 65 amps, as high as 100. For that you want a #8 wire. For best results you should run a same-sized wire from the body of the alternator to a good ground (there is usually a threaded hole on the alternator body for this purpose).

If you have minimal accessories, your grounds to the frame can be a #12, with same to the cab. I think MixerMan is thinking in terms of 6V? You can ground the cab at the bolt hole where the voltage regulator used to mount.

Like has been pointed out, you can connect the alternator output to the starter solenoid or the battery itself, it will work fine, but your ammeter will only show the current being used, i.e., a constant discharge.

 

Great, thanx for the advice and tips everyone. As for the wire, I was using the wire that came with the alternator, I believe it's 10 gauge. And they suggested no ground wire unless no ground contact could be made. I believe it has a pretty solid ground off the engine, but I'll validate that.

 

Well I have all the new gauges in and well grounded. My oil pressure gauge now only goes to 15-20, and my temp gauge after starting goes to high/hot almost immediately.
The previous gauges for oil was in the middle at 30, and the temp gauge stayed right of center.
Ideas???