Hey all,

I am first of all dumb when it comes to diesel, I have been an avad gas guy forever supercharged cars, lightnings, cobras, mustants ect. So if any of the questions i have seem retarded, they likely are.

So I just picked up a mechanic special 08 F350 crew dually with a 6.4. Guy that sold me it said it didn't run and was told it needed a new engine. So I decided to buy it anyways (i swapped my v10 in my e450 bus in my driveway, figured a 6.4 can't be too much worse)

So got it home, it actually fired up, sounded like there was some serious knocking, but it shut off, Tried this next morning to try to troubleshoot it, gave it a lil gas to get it aboe 1k rpm, long story is it ran terrible, vibration ect, then all of a sudden it cleared up and ran as I would expect, then shut down on its own. Tried the starter and starter and sounds like flywheel just freewheeled, assumed something bad broke like the crank...damn..

So I bought a new reman engine yesturday, but since I don't know hte history of truck what other items should I flush or replace? previous guy said he spent 4k last year on it for sputtering and lack of power, which i assume they replaced the hpfp(not sure what other 4k repair it could have been)

SO my short list
Flush coolant (there is soot in the expansion tank)
Flush radiator
Flush oil coolers and lines
Flush tranny lines and replace fluid
Replace fuel filters, oil filter, air filter
Replace the HP fuel lines per ford recommendation when removed
Clean glow plugs when I move them over
Possibly find a shop to test injectors and clean

What else can you all think of? I spent alot on a risk of having a rust free immaculate truck with a new engine.

Thanks all!
B

 

Wow! A V-10 is very simple when compared to the 6.4. I would find someone local to you that is familiar with the 6.4 to either do the swap, or at least work with you in this endeavor. You're not swapping in a cheap small block chevy. Done wrong, and you just wasted a whole lot of money.

That said, probably lifting the cab is the most difficult thing to do if you're not used to it. Most shops have them off within an hour. Once that's out of the way, everything is right there to work on.

 

I'm not mechanically dumb, so I am not gonna f it up, I ordered the body on lift adaptor that people have had good luck with, average time people that have it have told me 2-4 hours to pull it. I've got QUITE a tool selection and have worked on my own and shop in the past. Just trying not to spend $2600 for the engine swap when I'm capable of it myself. My questions were related to what else should be done not if I can do it.

Thanks

 

If you have the ability to pull the cab I don't see anything wrong with you doing it... Just make sure you have a local shop near by that you can call if you get stuck somewhere. But once the cab is up its a very simple job (well, as simple as one could be). The only really annoying part is going to be bleeding the fuel system....

Other than that, does the new truck come with new accessories? (hpfp, turbos, etc)

If not, have your turbos rebuilt/replaced. I would replace the hpfp, fuel cooler, and any lines leading up from the hfcm. I would also replace the hfcm with an AirDogII fuel system and probably drop and clean the fuel tank. Then sump the sucker just to make fuel delivery that much better.

Do a full service on the trans and any other fluid. Because you are putting a new block in I would plan to flush the cooling system as much as you can and go back with red elc coolant. The Ford Gold coolant is a no no if you can avoid it.

Go through and refinish the frame with a rust resistant coating like por15. Now is also a good time to do cab bushings as well to try and limit any damage to radiators down the road.



But if you can't pull the cab, you aren't looking at 2-4 hours... You are looking at several days of cussing and swearing. If you haven't worked on a 6.4 before you are in for a treat here... Without the cab on they aren't bad at all, but if you can't pull the cab they are a bit of a nightmare.

Also if you don't have access to an IDS working on a 6.4 can be a bit of a pita. Even the snapon scanners don't quite play nice with them. There is a reason most of us recommend any powerstroke mechanic have access to an IDS.

 

Thank you for the info, I've got a pretty large diesel shop here that swears by the cab on removal for head studs, I know that i'll be cussing(isn't there always?). ,but I don't want to swing a tow to my uncle's shop and lift.

I think the hpfp ha been replaced but ll flush everything just in case. Didn't relieze there was a fuel cooler to worry abou t. I have access to and vcm2 and software.

 

Your new motor should come with new injectors, if you do nothing else just swing for a new hpfp. There is nothing that is serviceable about them and unfortunately you have no way of checking the health of yours without the truck running.

You can always pull the fuel rails off the blown motor and check for rust or other metal debris, but with how long I am sure the truck sat without running its not worth risking it. If you put a bad hpfp in you will be replacing a full set of injectors, a new fuel cooler, and cleaning your entire fuel system. The labor alone for a proper repair on a failed hpfp is in the realm of 30 hours... If you have to do it cab on you are going to start dreaming about kicking midgets. The motor replacement is almost not worth doing cab on, that doesn't mean that if I were stuck without access to a lift I wouldn't attempt it with a few friends and half a liquor store worth of vodka and scotch... But, its almost worth that tow bill...

Ohh yah, now that I think about how long it may have sat... I wouldn't even attempt to save the hfcm. I would jump straight into an ADII fuel system and be done with it. I know I added that to the list, but I would just up and do it.

And any shop that recommends pulling heads on a 6.4 with the cab on really needs to have their heads examined... If you want to get proper torque on all of the studs you really need better access anyway. Not to mention is damn near impossible to get the heads out, or back in for that matter (setting them on straight is damn near impossible with the cab on). Most shops will actually pull the cab on a 6.0 as well even though its not a terrible job to do cab on.

On a 6.0 it cuts labor in half to remove the cab, on a 6.4 we are looking at roughly 1/4 the time... And Ford says it should take between 30 and 38 hours to do head gaskets on a 6.4 cab up...

 

So my Ford manuals with body on say 7.5 hours. I do appreciate all the info. It might be BS bit again my question, was again what else should I do not if I could so it. Please focus on what other things should I do not if I can do them. Thank you folks.

I can swap plugs in the lightning under 45 mins which also is implausible.

I seriously appreciate you alls info, bit again I'm simply looking for other items to flush and replace not the "you can't do it'

Thank you all!
B

 

Lol I am not telling you not to, I just make a habit of telling people what they are getting in to. Pulling the motor cab up with 2 people is literally just a few hours and done... I was referring to head gaskets.

But it is totally possible to pull and drop a new motor in cab on.


Is the new motor studded? If not it might be worth doing that while you have it on a stand and not in chassis. I would also do all the deletes (including BD up pipes and 6.0 exhaust manis) and plumb in the ebp sensor into the exhaust mani.

Other than everything I have mentioned I would inspect your main engine harness very closely. It would be a shame to get the motor in there and have wiring issues.

 

Forgive us if we sound doubtful about your efforts or knowledge. We don't want to steer anybody into a job like what you're doing unless they really know what they're doing. Obviously you know more than the average new guy here, and have access to knowledgeable folks if trouble arises. Good luck with your swap, and be sure to let us know how it goes! As Matthew said, make sure the entire fuel system is clean. I believe a contaminated fuel system has claimed more 6.4's than all other failures combined.

 

My only problem with first time diesel owners working on a 6.4 (even if you are experienced mechanically) is these trucks are known for their ability to throw seasoned diesel techs through the ringer. Many powerstroke shops don't advertise that they service 6.4s because they are more trouble than they are worth.

If you don't have access to an IDS the computer systems on a 6.4 or 6.7 generally will run you around the block until you literally want to murder small children.

I have a pretty good handle on 6.4s and 6.0s, I still wouldn't do any major work on a 6.4 with the cab on. Nor would I do it alone... Shop manuals help, but having someone you can call WHEN you get stuck is the best thing you can ever do on a 6.4.

I have pretty much listed mostly everything you really need to address when the motor is out (painting the frame isn't really doable with the cab still on), but the best advice I can give is this... Go over to the shop near you and talk with them, there is a good chance you will need their scan tools once you get her back together. You also have us here, so if you get stuck at 2 am you can make a post. Utilize this forum and Powerstroke.org (Powerstrokearmy is another good resource for 6.4s).

I have no doubt you will be able to take this on, but once you get into it you will understand why we are saying what we are. And for the love of god... I WANT PICTURES!!!! You don't have to do a build thread or anything like that, but take us along for the ride. Let us share in your misery!!!!

 

I don't have a lot of info for you, but I'm confident you can do it. Cab off or on whichever you decide. When I did camshaft on mine I opted to have the cab lifted off.

Later, when I needed to address an oil leak (that I thought was HPFP cover) I removed turbos and HPFP cover without removing cab.

As was already stated, you will want someone to ask for advice when you run into a bind. Sometimes it can take a while for the right people to give you advice, so try not to rush your project. You only want to do it once, so take your time!

Sorry for not answering your question.