I CANNOT get this felpro teflon rear main seal to go in. It just wont go in. I am using the plasic installer thing that came with it but it wont fully seat. When I tap one side in, the opposite side pops out.

As far as I can see, there is no sleeve on the crank. I first tried installing dry like the instructions say then tried with some oil.

Does anyone have any advice?? If you can't tell im extremely frustrated. I have an '86 f250 with 351W C6 by the way. The old one came out so easy too, I was just able to pull it out with my fingernail, weird right?

Thanks.

 

Yes:

1) Be kind to everyone you meet

2) Put away a little from each paycheck into a rainy day fund

3) Throw away the installation tool that came with the new seal. Make a new one from 3/4" plywood or something similar. Cut the inside diameter just big enough to fit over the end of the crankshaft. The outside diameter isn't too important. A 2" wide surface would work well. Now you can percuss the seal into place with a deadblow hammer. You have to start out gently to get started, but it will be MUCH easier with a stout block instead of the flimsy tool originally supplied.

 

I finally got it in! Thanks Kr98664! It worked! There is no way oil is leaking through this thing. It is TIGHT! The teflon seal is a challenge to get installed (for me at least) but hopefully it will be worth it with years of proper sealing.

I actually was able to do the job without removing the transmission or transmission cross member. My truck is 4x4 too. I just moved the transmission and transfer case back about six inches and dropped the flexplate and did the work in the six inch gap. Of course this was a big part of why getting the new seal installed was so difficult but it was worth it to not have to drop the transmission. Especially since I don't have a transmission jack.

I am so glad that this job is behind me.

 

Glad to hear my suggestion worked. I've got to know, how did you maneuver the transmission without a jack? Did you just balance it on the crossmember?

 

With the drive shafts removed, I uncoupled it from the engine then laid on my back under it with my feet toward the rear of the truck. I pushed up on the transfer case with my feet while pushing up on the transmission's bell housing with my arms and cleared the two studs of the transmission mount from the cross member and pushed the whole thing rearward balancing it on the crossmember like you said.

The transmission was resting on the cross member between the pan and the transmission mount which gave me about 6 inches between the engine and transmission. After I took the flexplate down, I had just enough room to work to remove the old seal and install the new one.

I didnt even end up using any kind of jack for the whole job but boy am I sore.

 

You know when you have to deal with the back of the motor like the rear main seal or even a clutch on a 4x4 it might be best to pull the motor than deal with the trany & transfer case, shift levers, drive shafts, etc.
Dave ----

 

Honestly the worst part of pulling my transmission was the crossmember. And my truck is 4x4.

 

yeah that cross member looked pretty intimidating so thats why I left it in place without disturbing it. I just lifted the trans up off of it and slid it back a few inches.

Unfortunately I don't have an engine hoist to pull the engine or else I would have considered that. Although the shift levers, linkages and drive shafts were really easy.

Whichever way you do it, its an awesome feeling knowing that the job is behind you and done. That rear main seal job has been on my to do list for years.