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ExPACamper, yes, I do think new batteries are in order. Presumably, if I maintain the new batteries with the MUS3300 as I have been, that should keep them at full charge between drive cycles and maximize their life. I would rarely if ever need a more capable charger in that scenario correct?
ExPACamper, yes, I do think new batteries are in order. Presumably, if I maintain the new batteries with the MUS3300 as I have been, that should keep them at full charge between drive cycles and maximize their life. I would rarely if ever need a more capable charger in that scenario correct?
I'd think that good batteries and a healthy alternator would keep your batteries in tip top condition and charge all the time- unless your drive cycles are a month or so in between?
In my experience, you only need the charger if something goes wrong, which you don't notice until it won't start on day, then you need the big charger
If you didn't already have the smaller chargers and asked whether to get them or a bigger charger, I'd recommend the larger. Again, not much need for maintenance unless something else is marginal.
If it comes to $$, there are smaller chargers in the $40 range that can be had all day long, just not with the big booster and lesser amps (20-40amps), which is good for "most" things.
Another thing to mention, you may wish to do a bit of research and asking here for battery recommendations. IMHO, 850CCA is on the low side. These beasts really suck up the juice when starting.
If you have a way to check the voltage, it would be a good idea to check your charging voltage from the alternator, especially if you are getting new batteries. Keep them strong and healthy as long as possible.
I suspect you were having some kind of charging or battery problems before that prompted you to buy the maintainers?
Don't like to spend other people's money, but really hate wasting it if there is something that can be avoided
Good info. The alternator does charge at 14.5 volts so it should be fine. As far as CCA, 850 is the highest rating Interstate offers. Purchasing those from costco out here has the benefit of a no hassle return policy and an extended 42 month warranty. It sounds like the advice is to leave the little charges alone then, perhaps use only on long term storage. I'll keep an eye out for a larger charger though. I run into one periodically.
I did want to add that one more benefit to purchasing new injectors is that the parts are hard coated so there is no need to worry about fuel additives for the injectors benefit. If there is a power benefit or gelling problem, that's fine.
Good info. The alternator does charge at 14.5 volts so it should be fine. As far as CCA, 850 is the highest rating Interstate offers. Purchasing those from costco out here has the benefit of a no hassle return policy and an extended 42 month warranty. It sounds like the advice is to leave the little charges alone then, perhaps use only on long term storage. I'll keep an eye out for a larger charger though. I run into one periodically.
I did want to add that one more benefit to purchasing new injectors is that the parts are hard coated so there is no need to worry about fuel additives for the injectors benefit. If there is a power benefit or gelling problem, that's fine.
Sounds like you're on top of it now
I still have my original injectors. Care to elaborate on the "hard coated" part? That's a new one to me, maybe it's common knowledge?
In one of the conversation with PIS, I asked about the need for fuel additives to add lubricity with the new injectors as it's very common given all the threads about adding 2 cycle oil, Diesel Kleen, Opti lube, etc. and they said additives are not needed with the new injectors as they have this self lubricating Tungsten hard coating now. They suggested in fact to not use any additives unless you just wanted to add them.
Brought the rig home tonight. Started up after a few quick tries and was a little smokey but sounded good and different with the single shots. I don't know why Ford didn't just stick with them, I think they sound better. Better than 170K split shots anyway. It was raining hard and the cab was full of tools along with the bed full of a cart, and couple of standing implements so It was just about driving 5 miles home which was uneventful and everything working fine. The tune I'm using now which is street of the three custom I ordered (Street, tow/economy, heavy tow) works very well with nice quick smooth shifts. Not much of a drive but it's all quite good so far.
I'll drive the next two days, change the oil this weekend and report back!
If you have ever heard it takes 50 miles to purge air out of the passages and injectors after changing them, I found it is darn near accurate to the mile in my case. At about 45 miles, the truck started quicker and idled smoother as the air finally made it's way out. Starts straight away now.
I changed the oil today (T6), installed a new dipstick tube since mine got twisted a bit causing the ID of the tube to tighten and making pulling/installing the dipstick a two handed event, installed the military terminals and bought a new pair of Interstate batteries from Costco featuring 42 month no hassle warranty. The batteries in Forrest were 8 years old to the month. Makes sense they're having troubles.
First driving impressions since all the work? Wow. If Hydra tunes are great, bigger injectors are freaking awesome. Cruising at 50 is effortless, accelerating is effortless, the harmonious and consistent sound at idle and throughout the rpms, the increased smoothness, throttle response, the Whistle of the 38R!
I don't understand why Ford messed around with split shots and a long lead injector.
I haven't gone WOT yet as I'm conservative on that sort of thing but I will and datalog it to see how everything looks. One great benefit with Gearhead is they do not recommend a boost regulator thus, when I datalog now, I'll see the actual boost. Looking forward to the first towing event as well. I do think a set of traction bars are not too far down the road though.
On to the military terminal work:
Here's the cart of electrical goodness. 1/0 fine strand battery cable to replace the crossover to the drivers battery, heavy duty terminals, military terminals, marine grade adhesive shrink wrap, solder, MAP gas torch, cutters, hydraulic crimper, electrical tape, wire loom, and some other odds n ends.
I'm committed to finishing this little project now!
Crimping that HD terminals with the hydraulic crimper. Tool is awesome, it's the 16ton unit. The largest dies I used were 135. Also used 95, 50, 35, and 15 for the job
Impact crimper makes a great wire holder for soldering, heat shrink etc. Here's the drivers side negative terminal after crimp/solder.
Heat shrink and in place.
Re constructing the crossover. I believe this will be a big benefit as the OEM crossover is quite small maybe 4 gauge, didn't measure it. The ground cables are 2 thus it's not sized the same which I've always believed all the major cables should be equally sized.
New larger crossover in place.
I added an 8 gauge lead on the passenger side JIC I ever want a clean 12V tap.
Here's the completed passenger side positive cables to the starter.
Completed passenger side.
Completed drivers side.
Drivers side with the covers in place.
After this, I went to costco and installed the new batteries in the parking lot.
With the new batteries it starts very nice. Makes me think about a Denso gear reduction starter
Yes, glad to be done with the maintenance charger. They can stay on the 69 Camaro that sits 11.9 months of the year.
I will be looking into a robust charger at some point. After reading through the information you provided and some other sources, it became clear I needed to re evaluate the charger situation.
Looks like you soldered the fine strands together and then crimped them with the heavy duty terminals?
For the dispstick replacement, I was under the impression that it was not "fixable" unless you had the kit from Diesel O-rings or the other kit I think from Sinister or something like that?
Did you find you had enough slack no the negative cables to re-use them for the new terminals and connections?
Good to hear you are happy with how things are going. I know my truck acts completely different since installing what I did. I could not even imagine the power difference with new injectors, tune and 38R under the hood.
The Camaro is powerful (500hp), sounds incredible, drives extremely well, and is my wife's car. Since we're so busy with our boys and going outdoors more than anything, the car sits. She'll either let it sit or decide to sell it. Hard to say what she is thinking, I stay out of it.
I crimped the terminal first, heat it near the eyelet until the solder is drawn into the terminal. I then reduce the heat and keep feeding solder until the terminal is full. There is plenty of room in the cables. The terminals add length.
It's the dipstick tube itself that got buggered up due to the stud arrangement in the valve cover and the nut not breaking loose. The entire stud turned and twisted the dipstick tube. Not the odd receiver thing in the pan. I've already done the Diesel O rings repair on that.
The Camaro is powerful (500hp), sounds incredible, drives extremely well, and is my wife's car. Since we're so busy with our boys and going outdoors more than anything, the car sits.
Yeah, you'd better wait a month or 3 before you send it out here for me to "exercise" every week. You know, for nice weather
03-01-2016, 08:38 PM
If Hydra tunes are great, bigger injectors are freaking awesome. Cruising at 50 is effortless, accelerating is effortless, the harmonious and consistent sound at idle and throughout the rpms, the increased smoothness, throttle response, the Whistle of the 38R! 
