I've read several stories about this problem, but never a solution in the end. 2004 6.0 starts fine but immediately stalls about 4 times when cold, after sitting for a day, then starts fine with maybe a slight surge or two. Then runs great, and starts fine for the rest of the day. I think the IPR reading on a scan gauge 2 has a minimum of 14.4 and max of 77. Turning over it reads 77, after it finally starts drops down to 20 something. KOEO 14.4. ICP reads over 680 while cranking. I know several people have experienced this on several different forums, but must have been so happy when they found the problem that they didn't come back and tell us. Does anyone know the answer to this mystery?

 

Or so mad that they didn't come back. Ipr should be commanded higher when cranking. near 85%, does your icp value fall after warming? Is the sensor connected?

 

As I said earlier my scan gauge 2 never goes over 77% so I'm not sure if it is higher when cranking. Just went out and started truck after trip to store. Of course it fired right up with no problems since its been run to the store this AM. ICP between 592-598 and IPR 20.2. You'd never know there was an issue unless it sit's over night. I'm wondering if the fuel pump on the rail could be leaking down or something. Changed both fuel filters yesterday and there was plenty of fuel in there though. Puzzled.

 

It doesn't stop at 77, or shouldn't. you would see 85 if it cranked enough, it just starts too early. Being is south florida i doubt cold/stiction has anything to do with it either, although i do see 60 degree "cold starts" from that area sometimes. Your IPR at warm idle is very low, so that doesn't make sense of a leak either.. very weird on the numbers. something has to be leaking down, and causing a hard start. What are your ficm numbers?

 

Sent my ficm out about 18 months ago, Ficm is 48-48.5 at key on, and the same at engine idle.

 

What's your ICPV reading need .85 to start 1.0 at low Idle

 

Is the truck parked nose up overnight? It doesn't have to be much of an angle. The HPOP resivoir can drain down due to a leaking seal in the high pressure oil pump. If possible, park it nose down or put the rear on jack stands overnight as a test.

 

Just went out and programmed icpv into my scan gauge 2, key was on for a while, icpv was .23 KOEO, and about 1.29 at idle. However the truck started right up and ran fine this morning making me wonder if it might have something to do with the glow plugs. I will say that we've had a cold spell for the last week and it's warm today. A/C in house came on for first time in 7 days. Rusty, I back my truck in the driveway every night, which means it is always nose down slightly. But it's been parked this way for years with no problem starting. This just started one morning. I was hoping someone who had already gone through this had an answer.

 

But wait, even though it started, I just noticed 04badford said it need .85 to start, and I had .23. This may be telling us something. I'll have to keep an eye on that. If it is IPRV, whats the cure?

 

.85v cranking to start, not KOEO

 

My apologies, misread your response. So any other thoughts, anyone, Bueller?

 

May have misread mine as well. How you park your truck isn't going to break it or cause it to not start, it's just a test to see if the HPOP seal has begun to leak. Ferris..

 

Yea sorry was having computer issues .23 koeo .85 cranking , Rusty is on to something aswell but keep an eye on ICPV , any oil out the back of the ICP sensor or in the connection? May need to pull the IPR and check the screen too

 

Finally found a forum where they fixed this issue. They replaced the HPOP pump and it went away. I get the feeling it's probably one of the o rings or seals and not the whole pump that's needs to be replaced. I've never had an hpop out, but it doesn't look like too bad of a job. Is there a seal kit available for this? Looks like Ferris was right on the money with this one. Thank You.

 

HPOP on early builds very common. It's a bit of a job and not a rebuild the pump scenario.
If you can wrench on your own stuff you can handle it, but you will be taking out the intake and turbo....and anything else that happens to fall in that area.

You should still do an air test to rule out anything under the valve covers leaking...........countless threads on that subject.

Before I get to carried away I would pull the IPR-check the screen....... and check the ICP to be sure it's not oil soaked, as well as the pigtail. I am assuming your ICP in under the turbo, if not it's on the passenger side valve cover, then you might be looking at stand piped and dummy plugs as well as you have a transition engine with newer oil rails but old style HPOP, but start with the ICP and IPR.