Bringing my '84 F-150 back to life
#1
Bringing my '84 F-150 back to life
The truck is a 1984 F-150, regular cab, long bed, 300 straight 6, auto tranny.
Here's my intro thread, plenty of pics too:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...stin-here.html
Long story short, I picked up the truck from a farm and dropped it off at my place. I've been told different things, but I believe it hasn't run in about a decade.
I finally got a chance to look under the hood, I removed the spark plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder. I'm going to let that sit over the weekend and I will try to hook up a battery on Tuesday to see if it'll turn over.
Like I mentioned in my intro thread, I am not so great under the hood so pardon any seemingly "stupid questions" I might ask.
But let me make this clear: this is going to be a budget restoration/build. If it ain't broke, I'm not going to fix it. I just want it to run safely and reliably. I know I will have to replace some parts and that is not a problem, but I do not want to replace things unnecessarily.
Now down to business. Upon removing the air cleaner assembly and looking everything over, I noticed a few things:
1) I noticed a hose (maybe a vacuum line?) that was laying over the heads, I am holding it in the picture below. Does it go into the second nozzle deal in the air filter housing circled in the second picture? If not, where?
2) This was lying around near the battery terminals, any ideas?
3) I know the big red plug is the EEC-IV diagnostics plug, but what is the small grey one next to it?
4) This rubber tubing looks like it got melted, I have a couple pics of it. What is this part and is it salvageable or is there something missing? Please let me know.
And another angle:
5) Here's the spark plugs. Maybe the truck was running rich? Any ideas?
6) Here's some pics of the the carb. Let me know what you think.
7) Finally, I found a pic, check it out. My truck doing what it does best.
Here's my intro thread, plenty of pics too:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...stin-here.html
Long story short, I picked up the truck from a farm and dropped it off at my place. I've been told different things, but I believe it hasn't run in about a decade.
I finally got a chance to look under the hood, I removed the spark plugs and put a little oil in each cylinder. I'm going to let that sit over the weekend and I will try to hook up a battery on Tuesday to see if it'll turn over.
Like I mentioned in my intro thread, I am not so great under the hood so pardon any seemingly "stupid questions" I might ask.
But let me make this clear: this is going to be a budget restoration/build. If it ain't broke, I'm not going to fix it. I just want it to run safely and reliably. I know I will have to replace some parts and that is not a problem, but I do not want to replace things unnecessarily.
Now down to business. Upon removing the air cleaner assembly and looking everything over, I noticed a few things:
1) I noticed a hose (maybe a vacuum line?) that was laying over the heads, I am holding it in the picture below. Does it go into the second nozzle deal in the air filter housing circled in the second picture? If not, where?
2) This was lying around near the battery terminals, any ideas?
3) I know the big red plug is the EEC-IV diagnostics plug, but what is the small grey one next to it?
4) This rubber tubing looks like it got melted, I have a couple pics of it. What is this part and is it salvageable or is there something missing? Please let me know.
And another angle:
5) Here's the spark plugs. Maybe the truck was running rich? Any ideas?
6) Here's some pics of the the carb. Let me know what you think.
7) Finally, I found a pic, check it out. My truck doing what it does best.
#3
I agree with maytag, that red wire looks like it goes to the starter solenoid; it would be red with a light-blue stripe and necessarily must be connected for the key to engage the starter motor.
The small, one-wire connector next to the larger red one is also for the EEC-IV diagnostics.
As for the vacuum lines, look at the sticker on the radiator support right near the hood latch to see if you can discern anything... that device in the air cleaner cover is a temperature sensor; one of those vacuum lines will be sourced with manifold vacuum (probably the disconnected one just based on orientation in your picture) and the other hose will come from the sensor and to a bimetallic flapper valve on the air cleaner's snout. I totally forget the acronyms used but this post might help you with what you find on that sticker: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Vacuum Diagram Acronyms
The small, one-wire connector next to the larger red one is also for the EEC-IV diagnostics.
As for the vacuum lines, look at the sticker on the radiator support right near the hood latch to see if you can discern anything... that device in the air cleaner cover is a temperature sensor; one of those vacuum lines will be sourced with manifold vacuum (probably the disconnected one just based on orientation in your picture) and the other hose will come from the sensor and to a bimetallic flapper valve on the air cleaner's snout. I totally forget the acronyms used but this post might help you with what you find on that sticker: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Vacuum Diagram Acronyms
#4
The loose vacuum hose [2nd photo], if connected to the intake manifold vacuum tree, does connect to the open port @ the top of the air cleaner. It provides vacuum to the snorkel door which directs hot air to the carburetor, when the engine is cold, and cool/cold air to the carburetor when the engine is at operating temperatures. The "thing/sensor" with the two hoses measures the temperature inside the air cleaner and controls the vacuum signal to the servo motor located on top of the air cleaner snorkel. There should be a flexible rectangular accordion style hose connecting the snorkle to the radiator support and a round [2"] flexible tubing which connects to the bottom of the snorkel and a metal shield which surrounds the exhaust manifold.
#7
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#8
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that ford made two different solenoids one with one stud, and one with two studs, for example my 82 f150 with the 351w has two studs on the solenoid one labeled (I) and one labeled (S). On the other hand my 84 f250 with the 6.9 has a solenoid with one stud labeled (S). Like I said correct me if I'm wrong.
#9
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that ford made two different solenoids one with one stud, and one with two studs, for example my 82 f150 with the 351w has two studs on the solenoid one labeled (I) and one labeled (S). On the other hand my 84 f250 with the 6.9 has a solenoid with one stud labeled (S). Like I said correct me if I'm wrong.
The "I" is for ignition (IGN) this only has power when the SOL is pulled in. On motors that use a coil to fire spark plugs when you start the motor sending 12 volts to the coil makes for a hotter spark and easier starting.
Once the motor is running the SOL is no longer pulled in and that IGN stud no longer has 12v going to it and the coil gets is power most of the time from a resister wire so less than 12v.
The 6.9 being a diesel and no spark plugs would not need the IGN type SOL but could use it if that is all you can find to get the motor running and just don't hook anything to it.
Being the OP has a 300/6 gas motor he would have a SOL with both "S" & "I". Don't know what that red wire could be fore but as someone else say they have one too and not hooked up.
Dave ----
#10
Pic 5 & 6 are the return spring on the accelerator (throttle) cable. One end of this cable goes through the firewall and connects to the gas pedal (skinny pedal) in the cab. The other end connects to the carburetor throttle linkage. The melted looking black plastic may have just been a plastic cover that helped keep the return spring on the throttle cable clean.
#11
I got a chance to tinker with the truck on Thursday, here's what I found out:
1) That green vacuum line in the first two pictures does go to the top of the air cleaner housing like I had guessed.
2) That red wire is the terminal that goes on the starter solenoid.
3) The starter solenoid only has the "S" stud for the starter. There is no "I" stud.
After everything looked right to me, I hooked up some jumper cables from my truck to the terminals on the F-150.
I turned the key and... nothing. I adjusted the connection on the positive terminal and turned the key again and it started clicking. Is that due to insufficient power or should I look at the cables? The positive terminal looks pretty rough and I had to play with it a little to get power from the jumper cables.
The head/tail lights work, interior dome light works, radio works, blinkers and some other stuff.
So now the issue is that clicking. Maybe I should get an actual battery and put that in? Maybe clean up the terminals as well? I heard some people say that tapping the starter solenoid helps.
Y'all let me know, thanks.
1) That green vacuum line in the first two pictures does go to the top of the air cleaner housing like I had guessed.
2) That red wire is the terminal that goes on the starter solenoid.
3) The starter solenoid only has the "S" stud for the starter. There is no "I" stud.
After everything looked right to me, I hooked up some jumper cables from my truck to the terminals on the F-150.
I turned the key and... nothing. I adjusted the connection on the positive terminal and turned the key again and it started clicking. Is that due to insufficient power or should I look at the cables? The positive terminal looks pretty rough and I had to play with it a little to get power from the jumper cables.
The head/tail lights work, interior dome light works, radio works, blinkers and some other stuff.
So now the issue is that clicking. Maybe I should get an actual battery and put that in? Maybe clean up the terminals as well? I heard some people say that tapping the starter solenoid helps.
Y'all let me know, thanks.
#12
Sometimes banging on the starter itself will get another crank out of them for a while, don't go too crazy, but a few pretty good whacks with a hammer or something will do the trick. This is pretty handy when they are shot or wore out, can get you to the parts store in a pinch.
Not sure about the solenoid, maybe. Fresh battery cables and starter cables, ground straps to frame and firewall really help too, the solenoid needs a solid ground as well. Rust never even takes a nap.
Not sure about the solenoid, maybe. Fresh battery cables and starter cables, ground straps to frame and firewall really help too, the solenoid needs a solid ground as well. Rust never even takes a nap.
#13
I got a chance to tinker with the truck on Thursday, here's what I found out:
1) That green vacuum line in the first two pictures does go to the top of the air cleaner housing like I had guessed.
2) That red wire is the terminal that goes on the starter solenoid.
3) The starter solenoid only has the "S" stud for the starter. There is no "I" stud.
After everything looked right to me, I hooked up some jumper cables from my truck to the terminals on the F-150.
I turned the key and... nothing. I adjusted the connection on the positive terminal and turned the key again and it started clicking. Is that due to insufficient power or should I look at the cables? The positive terminal looks pretty rough and I had to play with it a little to get power from the jumper cables.
The head/tail lights work, interior dome light works, radio works, blinkers and some other stuff.
So now the issue is that clicking. Maybe I should get an actual battery and put that in? Maybe clean up the terminals as well? I heard some people say that tapping the starter solenoid helps.
Y'all let me know, thanks.
1) That green vacuum line in the first two pictures does go to the top of the air cleaner housing like I had guessed.
2) That red wire is the terminal that goes on the starter solenoid.
3) The starter solenoid only has the "S" stud for the starter. There is no "I" stud.
After everything looked right to me, I hooked up some jumper cables from my truck to the terminals on the F-150.
I turned the key and... nothing. I adjusted the connection on the positive terminal and turned the key again and it started clicking. Is that due to insufficient power or should I look at the cables? The positive terminal looks pretty rough and I had to play with it a little to get power from the jumper cables.
The head/tail lights work, interior dome light works, radio works, blinkers and some other stuff.
So now the issue is that clicking. Maybe I should get an actual battery and put that in? Maybe clean up the terminals as well? I heard some people say that tapping the starter solenoid helps.
Y'all let me know, thanks.
I would replace ALL batt. cables as it sounds like one needs it badly so the other are not far behind.
And yes install a new batt. you are going to need it sooner or later so might as well do it now with the new cables.
My guess if the motor turns over by hand then it will turn over with the key and maybe even start.
Before you try turning over/starting have the fuel pump pulling fresh fuel from a good container not old fuel from the tank as bad things can happen and cause more work for you.
Dave ----
#14
Quick update:
I got the motor to turn manually and am now in the process of getting a battery and new cables.
What is this? I think that is a fuel line running to it from one of the gas tanks and it goes to the fuel reservoir in the carburetor. But I could be wrong, any ideas on what it is and why the hose is out of it?
I got the motor to turn manually and am now in the process of getting a battery and new cables.
What is this? I think that is a fuel line running to it from one of the gas tanks and it goes to the fuel reservoir in the carburetor. But I could be wrong, any ideas on what it is and why the hose is out of it?
#15
That is part of the gas tank vent system. Found this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nister-do.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nister-do.html