I am in the process of rebuilding my 5.8 and i want to get rid of my smog pump and i want to know if i can get rid of all the hoses that come from it and snake all over the place. and also dose any one make plugs for the back of the heads or do i make my own?

 

ttt

 

Why? It won't make the engine run any better, and probably worse. Keep it running right and it'll be more reliable and easier to diagnose.

 

Well my pump is coming off as it is useless on my truck. The pump isn't hooked up the the cats as I run longtubes, that Smog pipe on the back of the heads is gone too.

Ford sells those head plugs, do a search on here for them that I posted up on them. I have them on my truck as my Smog pipe rusted out.

The check valves are gone also.

The belt needs to be ~5-10" shorter

 

did you get rid of all the hoses that run all over the place?.
also what do you guys think of using the smog pump as a on board compressor. would it work???

 

I will be getting rid of those vac lines pretty soon. Only thing that is going to stay is the EGR system w/ vac line and the fuel pressure regulator vac line.

The others go to the TAD/TAB solenoids which are useless as the smog piping and check valves are gone. I will leave the solenoids and wiring to them to avoid a CEL/SES/MIL light...whatever you call them.

Smog pump just pulls air through it to the other stuff, not really a compressor more like a small sealed fan

 

Just did the same on my F350 crew dually with 7.5L.
I just snipped the air tubes and welded them shut removed the smog pump and the Cat. ( I have a 5 speed and with out the cat it sounded like a tank firing every time I pushed in the clutch). The extra air from the air injection tubes was causing this.
The truck runs a lot better now and is even using less gas.
I removed all the extra smog junk and it looks better under the hood too. Installed 3 inch flowmaster system and all is well. I now get about 400 miles out of full thanks. Not bad for a giant warhorse.

 

Hey not bad for that giant! Did you remove that "Folgers" can from under the hood also?

 

so you got rid of the air pump and all the 5/8'' rubber hoses that were attached to it? what about the mess of hoses and valves that sit above the driverside fuel rail did you get rid of those too??

 

Air pump is gone. Rubber hoses to the cats are gone. Hoses to air tube on heads is gone.

I am in the process of sorting out the vac mess.

You need the "Folgers Can" as that supplies vac to the EVR valve by the TAD/TAB solenoids next to the coil. The TAD/TAB are for those check valves by the back of the heads and the one by the air pump.

The EVR regulates the EGR valve so that's really the only part that needs to stay.

Vac runs from the intake to the "Folgers Can" then to the EVR then to the EGR.

 

The "Folgers Can" is gone too, my year model truck has kind of a oval shaped can that controls the EVR. The Folgers can on mine was justa muffler for the extra air. since the pump is gone this was no longer needed. the fuel rail on my 460 is on the passenger side and all the extra 5/8 hoses are off and no longer needed. I Hooked it to the sunmachine in my shop (military)
and no codes or wrong readings. The warhorse really runs better and is alot quiter(unless you put the pedal to the metal).
The truck sports-3 inch flowmaster dual exhaust, free flow heads and a K&N Fip kitt. Its been a good truck if you don't mind having the manual transmission rebuild every 75000 miles(2nd and 3rd gear syncros in fords are crap)
I Just ordered a Center Console out of a 2003 Super Duty.(e-bay $69 plus shipping) Haven't received it yet. Will post when I get it and remove the front center folding seat and put in the console.

 

Ditch the smog pump, it doesn't make the engine run any better, it just makes the cats work better and sucks HP.

It won't work for onboard air because it is high volume, low pressure, it would never build the pressure you would want (the A/C compressor, on the other hand)

EGR doesn't make your motor run any better either. I am experimenting in removing that on the truck. It shouldn't cause any problems (it doesn't on a mustang) and would only throw a code... but when I left the vacuum line disconnected (vaccum leak) it did throw the check engine light. I will pull it and plug it to make sure it doesn't throw the light. Once you replace the EGR with a blockoff plate (better mileage, cleaner intake) then pull the coolent lines off the intake and get a little better HP! (I have done this to all my mustangs, but just bought the truck last weekend and haven't gotten to it yet).

Hope it helps.

 

EGR does have a benefit of lowering exhaust temps and reducing pinging. I removed mine off my truck just because I was going to replace it like a good boy but twisted the exhaust tube off and also broke off of the exhaust manifold. So now I dont have an EGR and my Check engine light is on all the time. Just cant wait until the thing burns out.

 

Lowering exhaust temps is the equivalent of lowering HP, I rather avoid that. And you shouldn't need your EGR to reduce pinging, as you shouldn't have much of a pinging problem at part throttle, which is the only time the EGR is active.

As far as the light issue, There should be a way to disconnect the EGR without getting the Check engine light. It is easily done with the EEC-IV systems on a mustang, Has anyone removed their EGR and not had a check engine light (I presumed my light came on because I had a vacuum leak (I pulled the vaccum line to the EGR while cleaning the motor and forgot to reconnect it).

 

The check engine light comes on because the EVP sensor is out of range because it is not hooked up. The ECM leans out fuel mixture when it thinks the valve is opening, If the ECM sees the valve opening, but isnt hooked up you will get a ping or hesitation.