"How to get rust of chrome/stainless steel and steel"
This trick was taught to me when i was a younger tike and ised to ride bikes with tons of chrome and steel on them. This absolutely works but you need to follow the steps described. have pictures to show progg. No magic here..lol
You will need to purchase 3 things. (Brillo heavy duty scour pads with the red soap in them. Do NOT get the normal steel wool ones. You will need to get your favorite degreaser. I use purple power, seems to work the best in this scenario. You will need to get eagle one never dull. It is a wadding of fine lamb hair/sorcerers arm pit hair and other magical stuff..lol


1. wash the wheel/metal/etc.. like normal
2. apply lots of purple power and let sit for 5 minutes, then spray again (you are going to have to use a lot of cleaner so dont be stingy)
3. take a scour pad and dip in a bucket of soapy water (dawn, car wash, etc..) and begin to scrub the crap out of everything.
IMPORTANT TIP--never let the surface your cleaning get dry, constantly spray with water and dip scrubber in water (if you dont do this it will leave micro scratches on everything)
4. continue to scrub/dip/rotate scrubber. Use scrubber till it almost becomes steel wool and discard and then get another(do not over user it)
5. spray with purple power again and use wash rag to clean any residue and look for missed spots
clean entire area when complete with was rag
6. DRY (very important before next step)
7. Open can of never dull and tear you a little piece of fabric off and fold it into a small little round or square piece.
8. Start rubbing a spot on metal, you will notice it starts to turn black(that black is about 20 years of mildew, oxidation, water spots, water rings, rust and every other thing on the planet)
9. continue to use the never dull, turning it and refolding it when it becomes to black and then tear off another piece. This is time consuming work and labor intensive but you will not believe the results as you will see from my pictures


Although this will get almost any metal looking new(especially chrome), its not a miracle process. If you have divots or pitting in your metal, they will still be there but they will be a lot less noticeable and not discolored.


Materials: 2 bottles of purple power, 1 can of never dull and 1 box of brillo red scour pads
Cost: purple power($5), Nevere dull ($10), red brillo pads ($4) =$20
Time: Very consuming 30-45 minutes per wheel


The more you do this, the better the metal will look. Do this twice a year and that metal will look brand new forever and the after the fist time, its goes much quicker and easier
here is link to other thread with pictures..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ictures-2.html


Thr front bumper was like the rims, completely covered in oxidation, white water spots and lots and lots of rust. There is some pitting but unless you are 2 inches away from the bumper, you cant see it.


Here are the pics:

 

Sweet Dent
I recognized your name in the North Carolina Forum. You need to post these pictures over there too.
I'm in Apex, just outside of Raleigh

 

Thanks. I forgot to do that thanks for the reminder..

 

Update 2/19/16

Did the brakes

Materials:
Front DS and PS disc pads
Rear drum pads, 2 springs, 2 cylinders
3 bottles of brake fluid

Cost: $115
Time: 2 1/2 hours

So tonight I tackled the brakes or lack there of. Put truck up on jacks and started in front, was pleasantly surprised to see discs on the front. The pads were about 50% worn but decided to replace anyways to try to solve my brake pedal having to go to floor and basically stand on them to stop(figured bad fluid or air/water in line as well). Front rotors look to be pretty damn new as they have never been turned as I measured depth and looked them up on the interwebs. Easy-peasy
The back brakes were drums and were in horrible shape. The drum itself was in good shape and went and had them turned by a friend and the cost of a beer..yatzee
The pads were completely cracked, had no padding left and almost deteriorate when I grabbed them and actually fell into pieces when I grabbed them (thought that was odd and not good). Come to find out the boot on the back side was missing from both sides of axle and water had gotten in over time and just destroyed everything. Cylinders were destroyed and 2 springs were rusted. Took everything off, wire brushed everything, flat black rust oleum rattle canned everything, had some spare rubbers from window trim lying around so I cut to shape and plugged the holes. Reassembled everything. Flushed the brake fluid and what I can only describe as mostly black water came out, not much fluid and not much liquid at all but a lot of gunk. It took filling the mc up twice and using a pressure pump to get all the nastiness out. Adjusted the brake pedal, wd40'd everything in linkage from pedal down. Topped off mc and re-assembled everything, used the opportunity to clean inside of rims as well. The truck now stops on a dime and is tight from fully extended throughout the range, no longer has complete travel to floor and feels like a new truck if not better. No need to get power assist booster conversation. From 35-40mph, I slammed the brakes, half pedal force and it lit up the rear end and came to a sliding stop a lot better than anticipated. With actual good tires with decent tread, the big orange monster will come to a damn good stop.

This was a 2 out of 5 beer job. Easy to do, just time consuming and I took my time to look at everything the first time. Job could easily be done in a 1 1/2

Next to do tomorrow is tear apart the edelbrock carb and give it a rebuild, flush all fluids (coolant, power steering, do oil change/filter, transmission fluid) and take off valve covers and take a look at upper engine components. If no major surprises come along the way. Might even have time to tidy up engine bay with some wire looms and start prep sanding and painting parts and sidewalls.

 

Man, good progress today. Congrats on a job well done.

 

Thanks, it's been a while since I have had a project to work on. I forgot how much fun project builds can be. I have a full day of things to do to the truck today. Thank god for heated garages..lol

 

2/20/16
Busy morning so far. Flushed the radiator of its nasty brownish fluid, flushed power steering fluid and added new, dumped tranny fluid and added new(it looked pretty good). Changed the oil, also in not bad shape and looked pretty good. Changed plugs and new plug wires. Took off carb and rebuilt with kit, went one jet size higher, adjusted idle and choke and cleaned and scrubbed inside and out. Replaced points. Checked timing and it was off by a degree and advanced to 12°
Scrubbed, sanded and painted inner fender walls. The old girl is purring now, idling better and has loads more power plus just piece of mind that all the fluids are done.


Material + Costs
5 quarts oil and filter - $25
2 Bottles coolant - $10
1 bottle tranny fluid - $10
1 bottle power sterring $8
1 carb rebuilt kit and bigger jets - $30
1 set points - $15
1 set plugs - $14
1 set plug wires - $40
1 dial advanced timing gun - $25
4 cans rustoleum flat black rattlecans - $8
Total cost is $185 (not to shabby for doing a complete overhaul of the entire trucks fluids and fuel system


Time:
7 hours a lot of that time was doing the rebuild of carb and fine tuning the ignition and fuel flow. This was a 2 out of 5 beers job, not compliocated but very time consuming. Took my time, checking and double checking everything since this was the first go round.

Next up is taking the front end aluminum fascia, sanding, beating back into shape and painting with duplicolor dip chrome and high gloss black dip chrome. Have to take a break until this evening, wife and the world call..lol


Below are before and after pics:

 

2/21/16
Another busy morning. Scrubber, cleaned and sanded down the front end aluminum of the truck to try to getr about 40 years of rust, oxididation and contaminants off. Below are some before and after steps. I started withga good clean and then took, purple power and straightr brillo pads to the aluminum. Lots and lots of elbow grease here. I then finished that off with 600 grit sand paper. Cleaned everything off and started usuing the never dull from my previous post, black build up immediately. Scrubbed and scrubbed with never dull (about an hour) Was happy with results, this is all in prep to actually cut the aluminum with polish. You can get an attachment for your dril to allow grinding wheel buffers to attach to it (from lowes, home depot, etc..) Will cut aluminum with brown bar first and then grey bar, it will make the aluminum look like mirrored chrome after, its an amazing transformation.


I cleaned and scrubbed grill inserts and ford emblem and painted with plasti dip duplicolor high glass black paint, was really happy with outcome. Next thing tio do is get some metal wire mesh, paint and attach to the back of grill inserts so that there isnt that much of a "void" visible.
Pictures dont give it credit, its very overcast and dark outside and so everything doesnt look as shiny as it is. Need to take some more pics if the sdun ever shows its head..lol


Material:
Red and normal brillo pads, neverdull cloth de-oxidizer and turtles wax. 4 cans of paint
Cost: Already had everything on hand from previous last weeks projects except for paint - $10
Time: About 3 hours give or take a few minutes.
job : 1 out of 5 beers. Literally brain dead stuff, just time consuming


Thoughts?


Next up are all the external lights. Going to convert to l.e.d. and get the clear lenses and matching colors for the parking lights, turn signals, bed running lights and get l.e.d conversion kit for rear tails. Also going to wire in some l.e.d."s for internal dash, dome lights and floorboard accent lighting.

 

Nice progress so far. Amazing what a little bit of paint and some elbow grease will do. I was sad to see the bungee cord battery hold down removed. It really tied the "before" look together.

 

Cosmetic (Front end)

I was going to sand down the aluminum and polish it with a buffing pads to get a mirror shine but i decided to keep the anodized look. Decided on this becasue once you get that mirror'd chrome look it will be a maint nightmare to keep it up. A friend of mine who works on vintage motorcycles suggested marvels mystery oil, i thought, what does that stuff have to do with me sanding and polishing aluminum? Well, im a believer now. I am not sure whats in this stuff but heres what i did per his instructions. Get a terry cloth or steel wool(if there is rust), my front end wasnt rusty but jsut super oxidized and lots of dried residue and water spots. Dabbed cloth and started rubbing it all over aluminum, let it sit for 30 minutes. Followed by another rub down and let it sit for 5 minutes. After second rubbing it took metal down to the bare aluminum, i couldnt freaking believe it. It wasnt perfect but it kept me from having to 200, 400,1000 wet sand it down and about a million hours of work. Added bonus you can add it to your engine and its supposed to really work, its like sea foam, it gets down in every crevice of the motor and eats away at the gunk inside.
Once you do this though, you need to polish it, the metal will start to get a haze on it almost immediately. ?I used mothers mag and aluminum polish(ave always liked this stuff and seemed to be the best overall that i have used. Get a drill and go then goto auto parts store and buy an attachment for polishing the rims, you will thank yourself later, if you try to manually polish this aluminum.

Material: mothers aluminum mag cleaner, marvels mystery oil, rags and drill polisher

Cost: mothers - $7
marvels mystery oil - $6 (small container/they make a huge one too
but that was a lot)
drill polisher - $16

Time: 1 hour

If you look at some of my older pics, you can def tell the difference. its not a mirror reflection but damn does it shine. i even hit up the side rails, bed rails and chrome on truck, it worked great on those as well

 

Update 2/24/16

Ordered hooker long tube headers, flow master series 40 mufflers and 2.25 as exhaust piping kit from andyautos.com. Should be here sometime next week and will install next weekend.
This weekend to do:
Trace down all th "cut" and dead end wires and remove or tighten up. Straighten up and hide/wire loom all cables behind dash. Wire loom and rearrange/extend all cables in engine at, in effort to clean up engine bay.

 

Well, my headers and flowmaster 40's hadn't shown up yet but my 5/16" tubing did. It wasnt much but then i wasnt expecting much for $60 for 40' either.
I decided to tackle this job from exhaust downpipes back. Decided to keep the almost original flow back. Exhaust was eaten up with rust holes everywhere and both runs were hanging on with metal coat hangersd that were spot welded (i kid you not..lol) i orderd 8 hangers as well. i will tackle the headers when they get here sometime this week.


Materials:
5/16" exhaust tubing 40' - $60
8 weld style exhaust hangers - $5 each for=$40
2 cans 2000 degrees exhaust no ignite black paint $20
Grand total = $120


Total time: 9 hours but it was the first time i have ever tried this, im sure it could probably be done in half that time.


I have never done exhaust but i consider myself an average back yard mechanic and there is always the interwebs to help. The hardest part of this job was figuring out the geometry so i just took out the saws-all and cut from exhaust flange down and cut it into 3 foot sections. My buddy down the road has a mandrel bender so i went over with parts and fabbed everthing up (this process took about 2 hours).
He let me borrow his mig welder for the hangers and the exhaust.
Brought everything back and started to reasemble everything, including cutting down and grinding down all the crappy welded coat hanger, hangers.
I had never welded before so of course my joints look like *** but i was pretty proud of myself for getting seamless welds with no air, after the second or third weld..lol and my bends were pretty damn near spot on to the original. My buddy who does exhaust for a living gave me a couple tips for the arch bends over the rear axle to help with exhaust flow since im running straight duals with no x or h pipe. I will say this, it was an intimidating job at first but once your commited and you jump into it, it wasnt as bad as i thought. It isn not perfect but for a budget build of $100 for a complete new exhaust..well, im not complaining.
The exhaust paint has a wide area nozzle so lots of over spray but its under the truck so no big deal. It goes on very wet and glossy looking but then almost immediately drys. One can did two full length exhausts(15 feet so so-i have the 12 foot bed) and then some. I bought two cans for 2 coats and probably still have enough in one can to do the headers when they come in so you could probably get away with one can to be honest


Lessons learned to pass on:
If your doing this without a lift like i did, get a buddy to help hold the piping in place or get some jack stands and wood to hold pipe up when your doing final connect/weld.
When welding steel always remember to wear protective gloves when welding, never grab the pipe. it took me only one time to learn that lesson and the "WTF" was i just thinking!!
Its easier to knock major portions of the piping out (fitment and weld) outside from the bottom of the truck and then putting in long sections then trying to do it piece mill in place under the truck.


i have decided to keep the mufflers that are on, in place. They were surprisingly not rusted and are straight through cherry bomb style mufflers (although they are no where near as loud). Going to return the $90 flowmasters when i get them, no need for them really.
The exhaust actully quieted down a bit after final install and i no longer have back pressure issues. When i use to let off the gas under hard acceleration, it would sputter and just sound terrible, like i had huge exhaust manifold leaks. That has all quieted down. The rumble is now even from both sides of the exhaust, almost like a harley dual exhaust sound, even tone from both pipes, before it was terrible and just sounded off. I have more feel in the seat (mid range power). Once i put in the long tubes, i feel the exhaust is really going to come alive.


I also (when i had to take a break to drink a couple cold ones) painted my emblems on my truck to keep tieing in the orange/black color theme im going for.


All my lights came in and of course my order was messed up, only recieved one of my new rear lights and my clear lights for the front just came with bezels and not the actual housing or leds..ughh but everything else looks great..


here are some pics..

 

lights and paint:

 

audio of exhaust at idle

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._121603247.mp4

 

Very productive day today. was 65 and sunny, rare for us in the mountains in winter so i took advantage. Things i accomplished today


Dissambled, derusted and sanded both rusty exterior door pulls. Took apart and cleaned linkage, door lock mechanism replaced (wasnt working for either side and had rusty parts). Tore apart strike plate mechanisms as well as strike bar(lack of knowing what its called) , lubed internals, readjusted the strike bar on both sides, afjusted door hinges for both doors and realigned the doors. Both doors now close without having to slam them and a constant even gap around the entire door on both sides. There is new rubber trim all around the doors so adjusted to that offset and when you open doors now, they kick out like a modern car door. Have to pull doors close tight to close but the seal is a million times better now. No longer hear wind coming through door seals. Took about an hour.


Took out hanging passenger side valve cover pcv elbow, gasket and rubber tube. This turned out to be more nightmarish than i thought. Original gasket had morphed and became one with the valve cover metal. I had to get an exacto knife, flat tip screwdiver and large hammer and do surgery on the gasket(also had been painted to valve cover and hardened). Finally was able to pry the elbow out. Was cutting on leftover hard as a rock gasket and it of course fell down inside valve cover pcv hole. I didnt really feel like getting a new valve cover gasket and taking off valve cover so i got a light and long needle nose and was able to hunt around and locate it and yank it out. This job took an hour..lol should have been like 10 minutes. goes to show you sometimes the simple, brainless mini project can go bad, fast.


Rerouted, grouped and tied off all cables under dash (looks a million times better, took about 2 hours.


Traced down, rerouted and cleaned up cables in engine bay. Just found 3 cables that went no where. Two of them are the tubes for the water spray for the winshield wipres. They have been cut back for some reason. Another thing to add to the list to replace and get back up and running. The third cables looks to be a relatively new ground cable for something that went to the dash. Im going to assume either a newer aftermarket radio or an accdssory. Put voltmeter on it and no voltage while truck is on or off. This took about 2 hours


Starting working on updating the rest of engine bay with derust, sand and paint engine brackets and components. Started with the fan, will continue with power steering unit and bracket next. Took about 30 minutes and spray and dry time while i was doing other stuff.


Started on bottom front end rust removal. Mixture of purple power and paint thinner and assorted size and strength steel brushes and steel wools. Hitting everything up with rustoleum black rust prevent paint. Front cross member, oil pain and both front body rails (inside/outside)
This took about 2 hours or hard scrubbing and sanding.