Sounds like you have a good pile of projects K! Looking forward to hearing how they work out.
FWIW, I ported my EFI manifolds. No idea if it did anything, but as stated, it can't hurt. They were extremely rough inside, so smoothing them out has to have some positive impact, however minor it may be.

 

Well, the package arrived and I have the new intake and headers. Right away I saw or noticed a couple of mistakes regarding the intake. I'm sure you inline die hards will see it right away. Actually, there are two. Can you spot them?







Interesting, right? The coolant passage is plugged, and the carb was situated like that of a DP intake, 90* to the engine. And, I imagine, the p.o. wondered why it ran poorly. I also noticed that with the 4v adapter situated as it was the secondaries would have bound up on a segment of the intake and prevented them from opening more than 1/4" or so.

I'm ambivalent about the headers. If my long tubes didn't have one collector sitting on a trans cross member, I'd stay with them.





I could have sworn that the collectors on the Hedmans are 3" or 3.5", but I could be wrong. These are 2.5". I'm considering running a 3" y pipe to a flowmaster, with 2.5" tail pipe.

**Tomorrow I'm taking the ZF to the shop. I would so love to hear them say: "It just looks great. I don't think it needs anything other than new fluid." What's the chance of that, for a 1991 trans that was on a landscaping truck?

 

First thing I noticed before even reading anything was that they used an open plenum gasket! Someone didn't know what they were doing. You can just see the leaking between the passages.

I'm really hoping so, for you. There is a chance that really could be the case, so who knows?
If it is, I would probably opt to at least have new synchros put in.

 

Good catch, AB. I didn't even pay attention to that. I was so busy wondering why he had the carb sitting 90* to the head/engine, and why he plugged the coolant passage.

The headers frighten me a bit. I see a couple of spots where the flange is only 5/16" wide around the tube. That seems it would be an easy leak.

 

I run the Edelbrock on my Offy C with an open spacer and open gasket, no worries.

Put a nice thin bead of high-temp RTV around each flange before you mount the header and you should be good to go.

 

Hello, BVA: Yes, with an Offy I would do that. But the Clifford intake is a bit different. You can't mount the carb directly to the intake. You have to have thee Clifford ($) adapter, and that only one they sell for a not open plenum. It has the pri. secondary holes, so you need a four hole type gasket. That is what AB meant.

Thanks for the tip with the rtv sealer around the flange of the header. I remember I did that with my Hedman 5 years back, and have never had a leak there. k

 

i highly recommend pulling the front clip for the motor and zf5 swap
yes its a lot of work, but when i did mine, i mated them, swung them in, and then made my measurements for my xmember ended up with minor cut and welding. my build thread has all the details. i think its page 13? the smallblock zf5 is like 2.5 inches longer then the smallblock t18 so i needed new driveshafts.

i have the clifford intake and 4barrel adapter but its brand new, only been ran a handful of times and then sat on my engine for 6months im going with the dual webers setup.

ive pulled my headers with starter still in. my starter took a **** but im swapping intakes to the dual setup so i cant tell you if i can do it without removing them. mine are the hedmans and they are rusted to shi.t i even had them ceramic coated before installation( broke in with bare metal) so im looking at the clifford ones and maybe even those shorties if theyll fit a 4x4 truck.

for the reference i never had heat issues, but i had a brand new quickfuel. even with my old dp offy.

 

Which Webers, Dylan?

 

38 dgas. Should be plenty to fuel my beast. I've heard of guys using one and they loved the response the engine got. If they end up not being enough, I'll sell em to my Toyota friends and get 500 racers lol

I've VERY familiar with the 32/36 and I LOVE that carb, but my engine is far from being that small sadly

 

Bigger engine, yes, but what about the fact that peak revs are a good 1000-1500rpm lower than the little engines those small carbs came on??

 

Interesting point! I have wondered [dreamed?] if a 32/36 Weber would work on my truck, since my quest is for gas mileage and the engine is normally in the 1500-2250 RPM range.

 

Hey guys, I'm trying to find the cone that sits in the three bolt header flange on the bottom of the header in the photo. What is it called? It is the piece that drops thru the 3 bolt flange so you can run your exh. pipe. Thanks.

BTW: The best way I've found to clean up an aluminum DP or Cliffy intake? Wire brush and simple green and the hose.

 

The 32/36 will not work, by it self on our engines. It doesn't flow enough through the primary. Duals, yes that will work.

You have a good point, however I know a guy that used to race dirt track with them back in the day, and if they'd feed his dirt track motor, full throttle all night, I can only assume they'll feed my beast.

My original plan was a set of 32/36 on a mild build for my truck but then my engine ended up being twice what I had planned. Went with a quick fuel 600 that gave me 16mpg and had an afr of 10:1 I think something was cracked or leaking that I couldn't find. Plus my middle plugs were way richer then my out two.

Either way, I'll let everybody know in a couple of weeks what it does and how well it runs!

 

OKAY, so if the thread hijack is complete, can someone please tell me the name of the exhaust tube that sits in the three bolt header flange, where the exhaust connects to the header? Thanks

 

If you mean something like these: Hedman Header Reducers 21105 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

They are header reducers or collector reducers.

The link I listed might not be the correct size for what you need. I don't know what size the collectors are on your headers or the size of your exhaust system.