The axle itself comes out by just removing the 6? Bolts in the center of the hub. It just slides right out. The only special tool you'll need is the hub socket. The bearings are just regular tapered roller bearings.

The procedure you're describing is for a half ton style non-full-floating axle.

 

... or a 10.25" semi-float from an F-250 (F-250HD and F-350 use the full-float 10.25")

 

I think I covered that via "non-full-floating".

 

You had said "Half ton style." Arguable a 3/4 ton semi-float axle is a "half-ton style", but I wanted to point out that 3/4 tons have them too, and that there are 10.25" semi-floaters.

 

What ever you do make sure you check and clean out the rear breather line AND fitting! They plug up and your axle starts to leak everywhere possible.

 

I mean if we want to head off topic, half ton style fits.. It is essentially the same design, it's just a bit stronger. Gotta love a good technicality!

It still has an axle shaft that bears both the load and the torque, and doesn't use a separate hub that the FF 10.25" has. Eh either way, he stated F350 CC. No danger of a semi-floater there.

 

Thanks again guys. I picked up some Amsoil "SLIP LOCK" today as the friction modifier. NAPA man said good stuff. I run AMSOIL in a bunch of other stuff I have so I figured OK. Even though I had no idea that I needed a friction modifier and why. Just following your guys' advice. The salesman asked if I needed gear oil. I know I do but not sure if I need synthetic or non. I only pull my boat a few blocks to the boat ramp once a week. Nothing crazy other than that.
Thanks for the tip on the breather tube and fitting. On the bearing and 2 piece seal I you guys talk about from SKF. I like SKF. Do they offer a seal/bearing kit for my vehicle anyone know?

Thanks again guys and enjoy the rest of your guys' weekend.

Sid

 

No need to run friction modifier with synthetic oil as it is already in the oil.

All adding the modifier will do is make the limited slip NOT work

 

Ford had a lot of trouble with the full float axle seals leaking. There is actual a TSB's out there for the problem. And yes use the new 2 piece seal. Also there is very little if any loss of fluid when doing this job. You do not have to pull the differential cover. Be sure and fill the hub with with the recommended differential lube before reinstalling. And yes make sure the differential vent and hose is clear.

 

Thank you guys. I'll return the modifier. I will order the Scottseal 2 piece seal. Do I just call SKF for this seal? Or can I get it from someone else? Sorry for the newb questions here guys. Not sure of the part # for the seal or the bearing I need. Also, I heard when replacing the bearing always do the race. Do I need to do that also?


WT, you mention filling the hub with the correct diff lube. Not sure whatthe recommended fluid is. not sure if I even need synthetic. Am I just filling the differential thru the axle end here? Is that what you are saying? To clean the vent and hose, do I just remove and clean and put it back? That's it?


thank you very much guys. I really appreciate you guys putting up with my questions.


Have a great day.


Sid

 

Hey guys,


Real quick couple of questions please. After I return the friction modifier that I do not need, what type and how much fluid for the rearend? Also, you all mention not having to remove the cover off the rearend. Do I just drain all and refill through the top hole? That's it? This differential vent, can I clean it while not removing the cover?


Thank you very much again guys.


Sid

 

You'll need to pull the cover if you're changing the fluid. You don't need to pull the cover just to change the hub seal is what was meant.

If you jack up the one side so it's pointing up hill you won't lose very much oil. I didn't lose enough to warrant adding any when I did mine.

I'm not sure what the capacity is on the axle if you change the oil. According to the internet it's 3.25-3.5QT

And yes anytime you replace a bearing you need to replace the race also. They wear into each other.

 

Thanks death. Any special tool to remove the race and how hard is it?

I have the SKF34384 ScottSeal x2 and the bearing SKFBR3992 x2. Not sure what the SKF number is for the race? Any idea?

Thanks again.

Sid

 

Hey Diesel,

heading out for some oil for the rear before I do these seals finally. Just want to be straight. If I use conventional gear oil, I need the friction modifier? If I use synthetic, no modifier? Correct? It is a 4 L 10 on the rear tag.

4 qts ought to do me?

Thanks

Sid

 

Read the bottle, it will state if it already had the modifier in it, no matter what you buy.