Hi guys,

I am located in germany and got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. As these trucks are not really common here I hope I can get some help and advice from you.

The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.

We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor but it will take 2 weeks to get it to germany.

Perhaps you guys can help what we are missing or have another idea.

Thanks in advance!

 

Try unplugging the ICP and cranking, if your new HPOP is good, without an ICP the truck will command 500 psi and should fire. If it doesn't fire with the ICP unplugged, you have a leak elsewhere and your new ICP wont't solve it. A tell tale sign of a bad icp is also oil on the pigtail when you unplug it

 

Thanks for your answer. We already unplugged the ICP, it has oil on the tip but not on the pigtail, but it is still not firing up with unplugged ICP.

 

Re: adequate injection control pressure. You both need to have 500psi at the sensor and in the area of 500psi in actuality to have the engine fire. If you only in actuality HAVE 75psi, there is no amount of pulling the ICP sensor out that will cause combustion to occur despite the fact that pulling the sensor tricks the ECM into thinking that you have 1300 psi.

You have a leak in the high pressure oil system that needs to be addressed. Common culprits are the snap to connect fitting, the dummy plugs, and the standpipes.

FORD OEM 6.0L V8 Snap to Connect Kit 4C3Z-9B246-F

FORD OEM 6.0L V8 Dummy Plugs and Standpipes Kit 6E7Z-9A332-B

While you are in there, there is logic in changing out the injector cup nipple orings as well. Note that you'll need a special socket to get the injector nipples out.

INJECTOR CUP NIPPLE ORINGS

http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/...rod/prd321.htm


The likelihood is that the pump itself, thankfully, is fine.

Hope this helps!



Ed

 

then you have a leak somewhere... its not building enough pressure. Check the IPR screen for debris stopping the flow. Sometimes it takes a few tries to clear the air from the system. Crank for about 15 seconds, then let the starter cool before trying again. Normally about 2 minutes total cranking to fire if you didn't fill the HPOP reservoir before closing it up, sort of a prime.

 

Thanks for the answers.

@FICMRepair.

What do we have to do, to change the dummy plugs and stand pipes?

 

These components are dramatically easier than the HPOP you already replaced. They are just under the valve covers.

Just don't let your voltage numbers drop too far when trying to get it to start after that HPOP replacement or you risk damaging your FICM. Pop a battery charger on it to offset the load and, if you want to be certain of not damaging the system presuming you haven't already got loads of cranking in (and now want to), go ahead and pull the FICM relay out while you get that additional cranking in.

After you see the ICP numbers come up (presuming that you do), you can at that point let the batteries recover a bit, pop the FICM relay back in, and you've avoided the module seeing all that lower voltage.

 

Thank you for all your replys.

We are waiting for the parts at the moments.

All injectors have been replaced in december by a shop. Do new injectors come with new o-rings or do we have to replace them separately?

 

Good info here^^^

Were the injectors Ford reman? I sure would HOPE the truck got new dummy plugs and standpipe when that work was done!?!?

Do new pumps come with the STC fitting, if so that should be off the table as a source of a leak?

 

We changed the dummy plugs and stand pipes now. ICP shows between 1500-2000 PSI. One of the O-Rings was damaged.

At first the car started but was running really rough with white smoke from exhaust. We than shut it of and now it just cranks, ICP is rising to 1500-2000 but won't start anymore. No DTC's

ICP Sensor is new also.

 

You need cam and crank sync... together those equal FICM sync. Check fuel pulse width. Make sure you have at least 150rpm while cranking and FICM main voltage higher than 45v.

You need to run the air out of the system, it will run rough for a bit... you need to run it.

 

FICM Sync says (yes) while cranking. RPM is over 150rpm and Voltage is higher than 45v

will check Fuel Pulse Width now.

 

then check the plug to the fan clutch... that can keep a truck from starting.

 

Fuel Pulse Width is between 1.5 and 2.06ms during cranking.

We tried it with brake cleaner, car starts up but dies again after a few seconds. Even with foot on the gas.

 

Are you getting fuel?