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We used to have an industrial Snap-On rep come to our facility, not the typical shop truck. I would buy certain things that I deemed better then Craftsman, but our Craftsman was when those were only available through Sears. We also had an Sears Industrial account too, but you could do better when there were retail sales events.
I rebuild my Snap-on and DeWalt battery packs myself so I'm still in Ni-Cad land. You just have to get the tabbed cells and have a high wattage iron to bond them together. Once you learn how to lay them out it doesn't take much time. My Snap-On battery impact still is going strong.
We have a place called Batteries Plus and they can weld the tabs on the nicads for you or if you
want they can build the full pack and weld all the connections. No soldering required.
That being said. I really hate the Craftsman wrenches do to the clunky size they make them in
and all the hard edges they have where the Snap-On class of wrench seem to be smooth and
have a smaller body. Ask Rusty Axlerod about getting in and around turbines and fat wrenches.
They just don't fit in tight spaces.
I had looked at that in the past Sean and had some done by a service, but soldering them is not that hard and it's cheaper doing it myself. I think the last time I switched out 3 or 4 18v packs in an hour. Not everyone is going to achieve that if they are not versed in soldering and having it done would be better.
This year marks 40 years working on airplanes and the only snap-on tools I have bought are 1/4 drive swivel sockets. I have a few snap-on screw drivers and extensions that I found in airplanes or on the runway during fod checks though. Most of my tools are Craftsman, I've worn out several ratchets but never broke a tool that wasn't "modified". And the best part is, I never needed a payment book for tools. Snap-on are pretty but I've made a good living with Craftsman.
Well believe it or not ,I got a call from customer service yesterday, they found the head kit.(I wonder if a tech rep saw this tread) anyway 82.00 later and it's on it's way. I guess it's cheaper than buying new. But I won't be visiting the truck too much in less it's a specialty tool I have to have.
Hey, I've got a question for you related to another forum. In your field do you ever come across a situation having multi strand wire under a screw terminal? And if so, are their any instructions or rules regarding treatment of the wire? Such as can the wire be soldered before installation under the screw.
Hey, I've got a question for you related to another forum. In your field do you ever come across a situation having multi strand wire under a screw terminal? And if so, are their any instructions or rules regarding treatment of the wire? Such as can the wire be soldered before installation under the screw.
It's very rare and never on modern aircraft. High tension leads in the old magneto distributor blocks were held with a screw. Solderless crimp connectors have been the norm since before WWII. Soldering connectors is frowned on because some flux can cause corrosion and solder wicking up the wire takes the flexibility away causing the wire to break. Canon plugs are soldered but like the high tension leads they have an alternate strain relief. The rule in aircraft is the connection strength has to equal the tensile strength of the wire.
I've got this "EE" on a tool forum who states in his aircraft mil experience you soldered wires that were to be placed under screws. One of the first problems I solved 25 years ago when starting to manage my department was loose instrument connections, and the guys were soldering multi-strand under barrier strip screws. Once I got them to stop the problem went away. When I had a chance to talk to the guys in the instrument lab they called the problem compression flow of the solder. One of them was an EE who graduated top of his class from Stevens Institute. The equipment he build surpassed commercially available equipment so I've always trusted his advice.
Over the last few decades I've been very involved in the audio hobby, and everything in those forums, including from EEs, have stated solder the tips or leave a small piece on insulation at the tip to prevent splaying and just use a counterclockwise twist of the wire with a clockwise hook under the screws. That's the same advice I've found on electrical forums in the construction industry. They warn of cold flow of the solder under the screw.
I just can't find anything in writing to not use solder. I just don't want to see someone get hurt rewiring a tool.
Speaking of getting hurt. Overheating a nicad can cause problems.
It is really gets harry with lipo batteries. For some reason they love
to burst into flames.
I've got this "EE" on a tool forum who states in his aircraft mil experience you soldered wires that were to be placed under screws. One of the first problems I solved 25 years ago when starting to manage my department was loose instrument connections, and the guys were soldering multi-strand under barrier strip screws. Once I got them to stop the problem went away. When I had a chance to talk to the guys in the instrument lab they called the problem compression flow of the solder. One of them was an EE who graduated top of his class from Stevens Institute. The equipment he build surpassed commercially available equipment so I've always trusted his advice.
Over the last few decades I've been very involved in the audio hobby, and everything in those forums, including from EEs, have stated solder the tips or leave a small piece on insulation at the tip to prevent splaying and just use a counterclockwise twist of the wire with a clockwise hook under the screws. That's the same advice I've found on electrical forums in the construction industry. They warn of cold flow of the solder under the screw.
I just can't find anything in writing to not use solder. I just don't want to see someone get hurt rewiring a tool.
Low-voltage guy here who deals with all kinds of terminals and connections with stranded wire.
I never solder or tin the leads. Ran into issues one time where somebody did tin the leads and caused issues with the connection at the terminal block. As soon as I cut the wires and re-stripped them the problems went away.
When putting stranded wire under a screw just twist it counter-clockwise. Never had an issue.
02-10-2016, 05:25 AM
