Too low, should be at least 60 PSI. At this point you either have a failing fuel pressure regulator, or a weak fuel pump.

If the fuel pressure doesn't leak down, and going by the fact that the fuel pressure at idle is correct, I'd suspect your fuel pump is weak or not receiving enough power.

 

the fuel pressure does leak down when not running
I have 2 tanks.The rear tank don`t work.It hasn`t worked in a year.
I have been running off the front tank.I`ll check into it tomorrow.

 

I have a similar issue with my truck (or did before my truck's parts weren't strewn across the garage due to camshaft replacement). Idled fine, cut out when given some throttle.

It's unlikely to be your problem as no one seemed to recognize mine, but on my truck, the fuel vapor line is pulling liquid fuel into the charcoal canister, and then dumping fuel into the throttle body. You can check if your charcoal canister is wet, or pull off your intake hose and while idling, look at the throttle vavles as you open the throttle with the throttle cable. We were able to get my truck to stay running by yanking the throttle cable straight to wide open, or by keeping it at idle. Anything in between, fuel would dump right in front of the throttle valve and choke it out.

 

There is no 332 code for KOEO.
So I will guess it is a stored code an read out from the CM part of the self-test.

Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible causes:
-- Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve.
-- Icing.
-- Damaged EGR valve.
-- Damaged EVR solenoid harness.

As for the fuel pressure with gauge hooked up either ground pin #6 of the EEC self-test plug or shore pin #2 to pin #6 of the plug (photo).
See what the fuel pressure is then with the key left in the on position.




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Most of the time this turns out to be a bad fuel module in the rear tank.
Is your rear tank full and running over?

 

Bill,the rear tank has some gas in it but maintains what it has.It might have 4 or 5 gallons.
If I hit the switch to the rear tank from the front,it starts to knock off in a few seconds and then I switch back to the front and it catchs up and does fine.

I`ll check that code again tomorrow.

Milpool,I`ll look at that tomorrow also.

one crazy thing about this truck,when I got it I found 2 toggle switches and 2 dials hooked up under the dash.
The first dial had a wire hooked into a hot wire,and it went thru that first dial,The other wire from that first dial went to another toggle switch and dial.
I was told it was hooked to the Temp sensor to try to fool the computer into thinking the engine temp was different than it was.Kinda of like a rigged up choke.
I removed all that stuff.
it didn`t help it anyway
someone had problems with this thing before

 

If I had to guess, the fuel pump(s) have been failing for a while, and they rigged those potentiometers up into the coolant temperature sensor circuit in an atempt to trick the computer into thinking the engine was cold, so it'd inject more fuel.

 

here is where I am at now
I did find a small vacuum leak on the vacuum line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator.The vacuum line was plugged into something on a water line to the heater and it had a red hard vacuum line back to the MAN (I think it is called.)
I rerouted the vacuum line back to where the diagram under the hood said it was supposed to be and fixed that leak.
It didn`t help much.
Then a thought jumped into my mind.
I took the 02 sensor out since I didn`t have it plugged in and cranked it up and in spite of more noise,it wasn`t skipping but ran well.Now I am thinking maybe a clogged up cat converter?That may explain that old egr problem by building up back pressure

anyway,you guys correct me if I am wrong since yall are better at this than I am.I do appreciate all the imput so far too.

Ian,about that fuel pressure,when it was running with the o2 sensor out,the fuel pressure was about the same,when I gave it the gas,it went down to around 42-44 and when idling it was up near 50

so,for today,I may let it rest because it`s cold as heck out there..get back on it tomorrow

and i do think I will replace those 2 fuel pumps soon

 

It's conceivable you have a damaged cat as well, but the fuel pressure dropping down is still a problem.

 

update
the timing was set and the rear cat convertor was clogged and he took it off.Truck runs fine.
Now to check and see why that fuel pressure is low.
I may have to put a fuel pump in that front tank,I know the rear tank needs one.
so,this week I will look at it.Thanks

 

Why do you think the front one is bad?

 

it may be bad.I have read and Ian says that pressure should go higher than it is.I am going to check it out I guess.I am open to suggestions of course.The fuel pressure regulator seems fine but I need to recheck it

 

The low pressure may be because the rear one is bad when the front pump is running.
Very seldom is low pressure is caused by a running pump.

True if the rear tank is not filling the rear tanks valves may be OK and then it would point to the Fuel Pressure regulator or a bad front pump. In very few cases it could also be low voltage to the running pump. Most of the time this low voltage is from a bad fuel shut off switch or selector switch with bad high resistance contacts.