For now all I am going to use it is for an around town parts delivery truck for the small town auto parts store I own and run. The brake master is shot so I have to do something or I would leave it as is. Want to leave it year correct for fun, not thinking it will be worth more money. Is the power brake setup from 1966 crappy, way expensive, or non-obtainable?

 

No idea about the power setups. If you really want to try it then look at National Parts Depot. I like what I've bought from them. For my truck, I got a new master cylinder from Napa (non power) or you could try Wilwood Brakes. With manual brakes you'll press a little harder, but they work fine. I've hauled over 90 ton of firewood...over 3000 lbs at a time on my '65 F250. I've logged 10,000 miles pulling a 5 ton trailer all over the eastern US...manual drums work fine. Don't exceed 80mph because they get a little squirrelly, don't submerge them in water, and don't ride them to make them overheat. Remember when you install new shoes that they'll be weak until they break-in.

Only reason I can think of wanting power assist is if you have an automatic tranny.

 

Replaced everything brake related on mine (except for the pedal) last year. The parts at least aren't outrageous expensive. Under $500 for everything, 4 cast drums, wheel cylinders, hoses, shoes, springs, master cylinder etc. The problem with these old trucks, once you start a brake job it's like pulling a piece of yarn on a sweater, ya can't do a half assed job it won't work.

Front drums are kind of a PITA to source for 61-?? for certain years anyway, the hubs are pressed on the drums, not available as an assembly anymore. The hubs themselves are unobtanium is the problem, if yours are trash for some reason. Check drums carefully for cracks, runout and excessive turning beyond limits. I wanted new shoes coupled to new drums for best fit, a good brake job used to mean arching the new shoes to match the old drum. This makes a big difference in quality braking. Good luck finding someone who still does this.

You can try a little hand fitting shoe with the drum and a rasp or file, should help. I had a shop run all new hard lines and hoses was the only thing I farmed out. It was a little spendy but they did good work.

 

Just a few thoughts for shayster72. Hope I didn't poo-poo your ambitions too much on power brakes and steering. I really just wanted you to hear a different point of view....you've got a lot of work ahead of you anyway and some guys go into these projects wanting to do so much that it's overwhelming and the project gets forgotten. My strategy for my truck was to get it 100% safe and driving. Then come back and modify as time and ambition allowed. Also, I've lurked here a while and have seen jowilker give a lot of good info so again...I'm not trying to be contrary...just offering a different point of view.


When talking about safety, btw, I'm talking safe to 60's standards...these trucks never had ABS, air bags, crumple zones, or collapsible steering columns, etc.

I think the main purpose of having these trucks today is the fun. Sure you can get a more modern truck for travel and work, but these early 60's truck have a cool style. Plus, these trucks can be made to run and ride pretty darn well if you go through absolutely everything.


I did a quick look at National Parts Depot, btw, and looks like they have power brake conversions for a little over $400.

 

I've got exactly the same truck, same Poppy red too. I found a '66 booster for $25 to use as a core, exchange/reman is available. I neglected to get the steel vacuum supply line though, and it's not so common. If you want p/s it has to be Bendix for originality (available from December 1, 1965). Some people throw them out, believing them to be worthless. They can be rebuilt (and improved) by an expert.
I intend to stay with MANual steering, but those 255 front tires gotta go!
Eric

 

My daily driver for the last 18 years is a 1970 SWB Chevy that is highly modified (Sorry I know that chevy may be a bad word here, I like all makes even dodge). Willwood disc brakes on all four,5 speed trany, drop spindles, shock relocate, sway bars front and back, etc. I did this because I drove it as a commuter year round on the intestate in Salt lake Utah.


For now I do not want to do that to this 66 F100. I just want to get it going and enjoy it as is. I wouldn't even worry about power brakes if they were working. But were I need to change it up any way I might as well go to a booster. I now live in small town Idaho and as cool as these mods would be I don't need them right now. And I like power steering on everything but it is not a priority as it works.


So any Part numbers or info on an original power brake setup for a 66 f100 would be appreciated.

 

That Chevy is a beauty ! Did you do all the mechanical and paint work yourself?


Sorry, can't help you with OEM part numbers. You've already heard the places I shop.

 

Thanks! I grew up on a farm and my dad helped me and my brothers pick out a truck early on to restore and have for high school. When I was five we found this beauty at shrum motors in Glenns ferry Idaho, by the time I got into high school we had it painted and on the road. It was my daily driver through high school college and through my construction management career. I turn 34 this month, so I have had this truck for 29 years. 11 years of restoring it with my father. Then another 18 years of driving and upgrading it as I went. The cab and hood Clearcoat is completely stripped off from never been parked in a garage. Rocker panels are completely rusted out again from driving it through Utah's winner and all the salt on the road. But it's been worth it being able to drive it all these years. Hoping to get panels replaced and repaint soon.